Re: how do I remove Power Steering Rack on my Ford
You may be able to remove it without removing the sub frame but I wouldn't reccommend it. The rack bolts to the sub frame from the top so it is actually much more difficult to remove them with the sub frame in place. I've replaced quite a few from first gen foci and I wouldn't bother to even attempt to do it with the SF in place. Besides if you have any miles on your vehicle you can easily access the sway bar bushings and would reccommend replacing the control arms while you are in there
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The part your referring to is more commonly purchased as a steering gear assembly. Raise the front end of the vehicle. Disconnect the outer tie rod ends from the steering knuckles, be sure to loosen the jam nut on the inner tie rod first as it will be more difficult once removed. disconnect the high and low pressure lines from the steering gear. if necessary lower the vehicles sub-frame. disconnect the steering intermediate shaft from where it couples with the input shaft on the steering gear. Unbolt and remove the steering rack. Installation is the reverse of removal. If you need more details, or help bleeding the power steering system afterwards contact me directly through my webpage, its free, http://autoabsolute.ca
disconnect the power steering lines from the rack. remove the roll pin or bolt that fastens the steering colume to the rack. makes sure the steering wheel is in the straight ahead position and stays there. raise vehicle remove wheels. disconnect the outer tie rod ends from the spindles. support the sub frame, unbolt the sub frame bolts that hold it to the car. you may only have to undo the rear ones and loosen the front ones there will be 4 of them. lower the rear of the sub frame enough to remove the steering rack. make sure the rack is in the centered position like you want to go straight ahead. then install in reverse order. when connecting the rack to the steering colume make sure the master slot is lined up properly or they won`t match up. then fill and bleed power steering system.
It's a bit of a pain, but doable with simple tools.
Loosen the front lug nuts. Jack up the van and support it on the rails just behind the front tires (not the sub frame as you need to lower that a few inches). Remove the front tires. Disconnect the sway bar link pins, and the sway bar mounting bolts. Disconnect the tie rod ends from the knuckles. Support the rear ends of the sub frame, and remove the bolts mounting it to the van. Once the sub frame bolts are out, lower the rear end of the frame. I did this by using a jack, and placing the jack stands a couple of inches below the frame. Remove the sway bar from the van. You may need to drop the rack a bit more, but be careful as the steering shaft is still connected. You should be able to get at the bolt that attaches the rack stub to the steering rod by pushing up on the boot. Remove the sub shaft bolt. Disconnect the power steering lines from the rack (at the rack). Un-bolt the rack from the sub frame, there are two bolts. The rack should be able to be removed from the drivers side of the van. I replaced the tie rod ends and the sway bar bushings when I replaced mine (new link pins are easy at this time too). The installation is reverse of removal. I measured the tie rod distances when I put the new ends on. The only change I made was that I tied the steering shaft boot down onto the rack so I could install the bolt. I couldn't push the boot up high enough to get the bolt back in. Be sure to install the new power steering line seals that should come with the rack (buy new ones if it doesn't) - the lines are different sizes so you can't mix them up. Torque everything to spec when reinstalling (the cheap Hanes manuals have what you need along with these directions!). It's easiest to install the sway bar brackets when the sub frame is hanging down. Once it's together and running, check the power steering fluid. Get an alignment immediately (I set mine up before I changed the rack). One last bit of advice, buy the rack with the longer warranty, you don't want to do this twice.
if the rack and pinion was not leaking or causing problems. then he may of made a wrong move! if the rack was fine before, and you just lost power steering. then it is most likely the power steering pump or the lines that go from rack to the pump. good-day ! if a rack goes bad, you will get a bad steering problem or just bad steering.
Removing the rack and pinion assembly from a 2002 Pontiac Grand Am Se
To get the old rack and pinion off of the car for replacement involves lowering the sub-frame, removing the stabilizer bar, and pulling the rack out from the driver side of the vehicle.
Start by lifting or jacking up the car and removing the front wheels. Once the car is safely supported, disconnect both tie rods from the steering knuckles.
The rear motor mount sits on top of the cross-member part of the sub-frame, and must be disconnected to allow the sub-frame to drop a few inches. Remove the three bolts attaching it to the center of the sub-frame - one in the back and two in the front near the back of the transmission.
Loosen the two bolts holding the front of the sub-frame. Place a scissor jack or bottle jack under the rear of the sub-frame where the bolt for the motor mount was. Remove the two smaller bolts from each side of the rear of the sub-frame (total 4 bolts) and then loosen the two remaining larger bolts holding the rear of the sub-frame (these bolts go through the rear control arm bushings and are very long) until the bolts are only going through the control arm bushing, and not into the chassis. You do not need to remove these completely.
Remove the stabilizer links from both sides.
Next you must disconnect the steering linkage. This is done easily by lifting up the rubber boot to expose the small bolt holding the linkage. Remove the bolt and pry the linkage upward using a pry tool or screw driver.
Near the passenger side of the crossmember, remove the bolt holding the power steering line bracket to the chassis. You may now begin to lower the sub-frame using the jack. The front bolts should have lowered the sub-frame about a half-inch or so, allowing you to lower the back of the sub-frame 3 or 4 inches.
With the sub-frame lowered, you can now access the bolts holding the stabilizer bar in place. The right side has a nut screwed onto the top of it holding the power steering lines, remove this first, then remove both bolts. Pry or pull the stabilizer brackets up and out. Remove the stabilizer bar.
Now you can get to both of the bolts holding the rack in place. Remove both of these, then begin to slide the rack toward the driver side wheel well until there is no more slack in the power steering lines. At this point you should be able to get to the nuts securing the lines on the rack. Loosen both nuts and be ready with something to cap the ends with. I used part of a plastic bag and a wire to tie it. You can now pull the rack out through the driver side.
Be sure to replace the rubber o-rings on the ends of the lines when putting the new rack in. Replace everything in the reverse order. Put your tie rods on the new rack, making sure to count the turns or make a mark or measure to be sure your tie rods end up close to the same length as before.
Bleed the power steering system.
Important: Get an alignment! Not only is it dangerous to drive with your steering out of align but it will also grate the tread off your tires in a matter of weeks or even days.
If the car has power steering you need to disconect the hydraulic lines on the rack that lead to the power steering pump. You will need to disconnect each tie rod from the steering knuckle, this could take a tool called a pickel fork, be careful not to ruin the rubber boots. Next center the steering wheel and disconnect the steering shaft from the rack. The last thing should be the mounting bolts that mount the rack to the sub-frame. The rack should drop down and out.
Yes it does. The R&P is attached to the subframe of the car. When you undo the rear sub frame bolts be sure to have a jack under both sides of the sub frame to support. The R&P is bolted to the sub frame and so is the engine.