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Trying to change strut assemmbly cant get bolts off steering knuckle to strut connection

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  • flavaz May 01, 2010

    i have tried that , but I get no play . I've lubricated the bolts and i'm using an impact wrench. do you think that the bolts have just seized up?

  • flavaz May 01, 2010

    trying to change strut assemmbly cant get bolts off steering knuckle to strut connection. I've lubricated the bolts and i'm using an impact wrench. do you think that the bolts have just seized up?

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Use a torch and heat them up. Or a very long breaker bar helps too

Posted on May 01, 2010

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Hi! Please try this. See the struts that meets the steering knuckle. It is pinched in the knuckle with 2 bolts holding it. You will need to remove the 2 bolts with a ratchet and hold the other end using a ratchet to hold the nut. Hope this helps and good luck!

Posted on May 01, 2010

  • dj_relly999
    dj_relly999 May 01, 2010

    Maybe, i suggest you start breaking the bolts and just replace it. If you have a torch or something you can start heating up the bolts and loosen them carefully, it does work.

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How to change front struts on 98 pontiac grand am gt


You will need appropriate spring compressor unless you plan to replace the whole assembly. Also, spring compressor is much easier with access to pneumatic tools. You may need a tie rod end seperator too. Here is the procedure straight from the manual. Reverse for assembly. It's worth noting the importance of marking with paint or scribing the spring placement as well as the big bolts at the base of assembly prior to removal as this can affect alignment.

1. Remove the nuts (1) and the bolt (4) attaching the top of the strut assembly ,(2) to the

body.

2. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.

3. Place jack stands under the front suspension support.

4. Lower the vehicle slightly so that the weight of the car rests on the jack stands and not the

control arms.

5. Remove the tire and wheel assemblies. Refer to Wheel Removal in Tires and Wheels.

6. Remove the brake line bracket.

7. Scribe the strut flange. Refer to Strut and Knuckle Scribing .

8. Remove the bolts (3) attaching the strut to the steering knuckle.

Important: The steering knuckle must be supported in order to prevent over-extension of

the axle joint.

9. Remove the strut assembly from the vehicle.
10. Disassemble the strut.

May 28, 2014 | 1998 Pontiac Grand Am

1 Answer

Upper torque strut bolts


I think you already posted on this, however
lower strut to steering knuckle bolts 156 ft lb oiled
tie rod end ball joint nuts 36 ft lb
brake caliper to steering knuckle bolts 79 ft lb
front strut upper centre nut 36 ft lb
front strut upper flange to body nuts 59 ft lb
brake hose clamp to strut assy 22 ft lb

Aug 13, 2013 | 1993 Toyota Camry V6

1 Answer

Strut to Steering Knuckle Bolts


I suggest not
it there are nuts then the bolts stay attached to one section
what are you using a breaker bar on if the nuts are already removed

Jul 22, 2017 | 1992 Oldsmobile 88 Royale

1 Answer

Need help changing balljoints


Found this article for you. Hope this helps

The ball joint is integrated into the lower control arm and cannot be replaced separately.
In many ways, that makes this project a lot less complicated (especially compared to the Taurus / Sable ;))

Before getting started, be sure to get an illustration of the front suspension - the linked Autozone Repair Guide is a good source.

Describing the scene & cast of parts:
  • The control arm connects to the frame with 1 large bolt/nut through a bushing on one end.

  • The other end has the ball joint stud sticking up that connects to the bottom end of the steering knuckle.

  • There's one more part involved: lower arm strut.
  • ** 1996-1998: This 'bar' connects to the middle of the control arm, and angles back and connects to the frame on the other.
    • 1999-2003: the end of the strut connects to the 'extension' coming off the control arm.

Removal Procedures:
Preliminaries: jack the car up, use a jack stand, chock the wheels, take the front wheel off - leave the key in the ignition so the steering wheel is unlocked.
  1. Remove the lower arm strut nut and dished washer from the end that goes through the middle of the control arm.

    NOTE: take notice of which way the dishing of the washer is pointing - you'll want to remember that for reassembly.

  2. Remove the 'pinch' bolt from the bottom of the steering knuckle that holds the ball joint stud in place - punch it all the way out of the knuckle.

  3. To make separating the control arm from the knuckle easier, you can use a small pry bar, or other handy tool to open up the 'pinch' point around the ball joint stud.

  4. I use a good length of 2x2 to leverage the control arm down - separating the ball joint stud from the knuckle.

  5. Last step - remove the control arm-to-frame bolt - and wiggle control arm off the end of the arm strut.

  6. Sit back and have a cup of coffee - 1/2 way there...

Installation:
  1. Put the end of the arm strut through the the control arm connecting point (middle for or control arm extension - model year dependent)

  2. Reattach control arm to frame - torque bolt to 85-97 ft lbs

  3. Ball joint stud to steering knuckle -

    * A second pair of hands really come in handy for this part
    * Line up the stud to the same angle as the opening in the bottom of the steering knuckle
    * I usually reach for the 2x2 to lever the control arm down far enough to get the stud lined-up and back into the steering knuckle

  4. Insert ball joint pinch bolt -

    NOTE: Don't start hammering the bolt back through the hole! There's a groove in the ball joint stud that must be lined up in the bolt hole - may have to tap the control arm up / down to get it "just right". Bolt slides in a whole lot easier then.
    Torque bolt to 46-52 ft lbs

  5. Reinstall strut washer & nut - this is where you were supposed to remember which way the washer 'dishing' was pointing!
    Torque to 85-97 ft lbs
Don't forget to put the wheel back on, and drop the van back to the ground.

Now is the time for the beer... Pricing Price references: Autozone, 1996-1998 $60, 1999-2003 $102

Aug 19, 2010 | 1999 Ford Windstar

1 Answer

I am currently changing front pads and think i should pack the wheel bearings but don't know how. its not covered in the haynes manual i got


Here I have the Step by Step :

Wheel and tire assembly Brake caliper and secure it out of the way with a piece of mechanic-s wire. Do not let the caliper hang on the hose. Brake rotor Halfshaft retaining nut and discard it Cotter pin and castellated nut from the tie rod end and separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle using a suitable removal tool. Discard the cotter pin. Separate the tie rod end from the wheel knuckle ABS sensor bolt and the sensor, if equipped Strut mounting nuts and the studs which attach the strut assembly to the steering knuckle Strut from the steering knuckle Lower ball joint pinch bolt. Carefully pry down on the lower control arm to separate the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle. Wheel hub, knuckle and bearing assembly from the vehicle

Please Rate, Thank you

Aug 13, 2010 | 2000 Ford Escort

1 Answer

How to cange front shocks.?


Raise and support the car safely and remove the front wheels. Undo the clip holding the brake line to the strut. Loosen the bolts holding the strut to the steering knuckle. Before removing them, remove the strut mount tower bolts under the hood. Then remove the other bolts, the entire strut assembly will slide out. You can either install a complete new strut and spring assembly (more expensive), or you can use a coil spring compressor to remove the spring from the old strut and install it on a new strut (less expensive but a lot more work, and you must have access to a spring compressor). Make sure when installing the spring that it is aligned correctly on the new strut. Also, you should replace the strut mounts with new ones. Be aware that a compressed spring is very dangerous, so be sure to follow the instructions for the spring compressor. Re-install the strut assembly. Make sure that the knuckle bolts and strut mount bolts are torqued to spec.

Mar 28, 2010 | 1990 Honda Accord

1 Answer

I'm in the process of replacing the front struts on my wife's 2000 Lexus ES300. I'm looking for torque values for the three nuts at the top of the strut tower and for the two down the bottom of the strut....


  1. Install or connect the following:
    • Spring seat. Tighten the new upper strut retaining nut to 36 ft. lbs. (49 Nm).
  2. Remove the strut from the vise and disassemble the securing nuts and bolt.
  3. Rotate the upper support so the lowest bolt on the support aligns with the projection part of the lower spring.
  1. Install or connect the following:
  2. Strut and tighten the strut to body bolts to 59 ft. lbs. (80 Nm).
  • Strut to the steering knuckle and tighten the bolts to 156 ft. lbs. (211 Nm).
To install:
  1. Install the lower ball joint onto the steering knuckle and tighten nut to 90 ft. lbs. (123 Nm). Install new cotter pin.

Oct 30, 2009 | 2000 Lexus ES 300

1 Answer

How to change front wheel bearings on a 1996geo prism


To change the bearings on the front of the prizm, you will need to remove the steering knuckle unless you have the means of an on car bearing press, such as a "tomcat". You will have to remove the wheel, caliper, rotor, outer tie rod end nut, axle nut, lower ball joint mounting bolts, steering knuckle to strut mount bolts. press the hub from the knuckle assembly, remove internal snap ring that retains bearing and press the bearing out the other side of the knuckle. Reverse proceedure to install. You will need an alignment once you are done.
Good luck

Oct 20, 2009 | 1996 Geo Prizm

1 Answer

Replacing a front wheel bearing


here is a step by step instructions on how to replace your bearing. please copy and paste the link into your browser for an image.

please do not forget to rate and comment about your experience with fixya today.

Removal & Installation
  1. Apply the brakes and hold in place.
  2. Raise the vehicle.
  3. Remove the front tire and wheel assembly.
  4. Remove the cotter pin, lock nut and spring washer from the hub nut.
  5. While the brakes are applied, loosen and remove the hub nut on the end of the driveshaft.
  6. Release the brakes.
  7. Remove the front disc brake caliper and adapter as an assembly, and the brake rotor from the steering knuckle.
  8. Remove the nut attaching the outer tie rod to the steering knuckle. To do this, hold the tie rod end stud with a wrench while loosening and removing the nut with a standard wrench or crowfoot wrench.
  9. Remove the tie rod end from the steering knuckle using Remover, Special Tool MB991113.
  10. Remove the tie rod heat shield.
  11. Remove the nut and pinch bolt clamping the ball joint stud to the steering knuckle.

    CAUTION The strut assembly-to-steering knuckle attaching bolts are serrated and must not be turned during removal. Hold the bolts stationary in the steering knuckles while removing the nuts, then tap the bolts out using a pin punch.
  12. Remove the two bolts attaching the strut to the steering knuckle.

    NOTE Use caution when separating the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle, so the ball joint seal does not get cut.
  13. Separate the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle by prying down on lower control arm and up against the ball joint boss on the steering knuckle.

    NOTE Do not allow the driveshaft to hang by the inner C/V joint; it must be supported to keep the joint from separating during this operation.
  14. Pull the steering knuckle off the driveshaft outer C/V joint splines and remove the steering knuckle.

    NOTE The cartridge type front wheel bearing used on this vehicle is not transferable to the replacement steering knuckle. If the replacement steering knuckle does not come with a wheel bearing, a new bearing must be installed in the steering knuckle. Installation of the new wheel bearing and hub must be done before installing the steering knuckle on the vehicle.
  15. If the wheel bearing and hub need removal. Do not reuse the wheel bearing.
    http://www.chiltonlibrary.com/content/images/32050/images/32050_ptcr_g0035.gif The separation of the ball joint and the knuckle
To install:
  1. Slide the hub of the steering knuckle onto the splines on the driveshaft C/V joint.
  2. Install the steering knuckle onto the ball joint stud aligning the bolt hole in the knuckle boss with the notch formed in the side of the ball joint stud.
  3. Install a new ball joint stud pinch bolt and nut. Tighten the nut to a torque of 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm).

    CAUTION The strut assembly-to-steering knuckle attaching bolts are serrated and must not be turned during installation. Install the nuts while holding the bolts stationary in the steering knuckle.
  4. Position the lower end of the strut assembly in line with the upper end of the steering knuckle and align the mounting holes . Install the two attaching bolts. The bolts should be installed with so that the nuts face towards the front of the vehicle once installed. Install the nuts. Holding the bolts in place tighten the nuts to a torque of 40 ft. lbs. (53 Nm) plus an additional 90° turn after the specified torque is met.
  5. Place the tie rod heat shield on the steering knuckle arm so that the shield is positioned straight away from the steering gear and tie rod end once installed. Align the hole in the shield with the hole in the steering knuckle arm. Install the outer tie rod ball stud into the hole in the steering knuckle arm. Start the tie rod attaching nut onto the stud. Hold the tie rod end stud with a wrench while tightening the nut with a standard wrench or crowfoot wrench. To fully tighten the nut to specifications, use a crowfoot wrench on a torque wrench to turn the nut, and a wrench on the stud.
  6. Tighten the nut to a torque of 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm). Install the brake rotor, disc brake caliper and adapter.
  7. Clean all foreign matter from the threads of the driveshaft outer C/V joint. Install the hub nut in the end of the driveshaft and snug it.
  8. Have a helper apply the brakes. With vehicle brakes applied to keep brake rotor and hub from turning, tighten the hub nut to a torque of 180 ft. lbs. (244 Nm)
  9. Install the spring washer, lock nut and cotter pin on the hub nut. Wrap the cotter pin ends tightly around the lock nut.
  10. Install the tire and wheel assembly. Install the wheel mounting nuts and tighten them to a torque of 100 ft. lbs. (135 Nm).
  11. Lower the vehicle.
  12. Set the front toe on the vehicle to required specification.

Apr 17, 2009 | 2003 Chrysler PT Cruiser

1 Answer

I need step by step instructions to replace front struts.


1.Turn ignition to OFF position to place steering column in unlocked position.
2.Remove hub nut
3.Loosen, but do not remove, three top mount-to-shock tower
4.Raise vehicle on a hoist.
5.Remove tire and wheel assembly
6.Move brake caliper and wire out of the way
7.Remove brake rotor
8.Remove cotter pin from tie rod end stud and remove slotted nut.
Discard cotter pin and nut
9.remove tie rod from knuckle
10.Remove stabilizer bar link nut, and remove link from strut
11.Remove and discard lower arm-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt and nut. (A drift punch may be used to remove bolt.) Using a screwdriver, slightly spread knuckle-to-lower arm pinch joint and remove lower arm from steering knuckle.
12.Press halfshaft from hub
13.Remove shock absorber strut-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt. Using a large screwdriver, slightly spread knuckle-to-strut pinch joint, if required, for removal
14.Remove steering knuckle and hub assembly from shock absorber strut
15.Remove three top mount-to-shock tower nuts and remove strut and spring assembly from vehicle
16.Compress spring with Spring Compressor
17.Place 10mm box-end wrench on top of shock strut shaft and hold while removing top shaft retaining nut with a 21mm 6-point crow foot wrench and ratchet
18.Loosen Spring Compressor , then remove top mount bracket assembly, bearing plate assembly and spring.
INSTALLATION
1.Place a 10mm box-end wrench on top of shock strut shaft and hold while tightening top shaft retaining nut with a 21mm 6-point crow foot wrench and ratchet to 53-72 Nm (40-53 lb-ft).
2.Install strut and spring assembly and three top mount-to-shock tower nuts
3.Install steering knuckle and hub assembly to shock absorber strut.
4.Install a new shock absorber strut-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt. Tighten to 98-132 Nm (73-97 lb-ft).
5.Install halfshaft into hub
6.Install lower arm to steering knuckle ensuring that ball stud groove is properly positioned and boot seal is not damaged. Install a new pinch bolt and nut. Tighten to 53-72 Nm (40-53 lb-ft).
7.Install stabilizer bar link to strut and install a new stabilizer bar link nut. Tighten to 77-103 Nm (57-75 lb-ft).
8.Install tie rod end onto knuckle.
9.Install a new tie rod end slotted nut. Tighten to 31-47Nm (23-34 lb-ft).
10.Install a new slotted nut retaining cotter pin.
11.Install brake rotor
12.Install brake caliper
13.Install tire and wheel assembly
14.Tighten three top mount-to-shock tower nuts to 30-40Nm (23-29 lb-ft).
15.Lower vehicle and tighten hub nut to 230-275 Nm (170-202 lb-ft)
16.Depress brake pedal several times prior to moving vehicle.

Hope this helps. Good luck !

Mar 14, 2009 | 1992 Ford Taurus

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