Question about 1990 Ford Aerostar

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Belt won't tighten

Changed the alt. and I can't remember how the belt goes back on

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Did you look on the underside of the hood,or the radiator shroud? Generally a diagram showing the routing system is there. if not,then autozone and oreilly autoparts can print you one for free. there are some on the net...but i would be leary unless edmunds.com has one you can take a peek at. too many websites offer the wrong things when it comes to working on vehicles.

Posted on May 01, 2010

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You will need ratchet and socket set, something to help hold the alt.(alternator) when tightening the belt ( like a pry bar). Loosen the bolts around the alt.. now it will move, and you need that prying tool now. use it to move the alt. so the belt has about an eighth of an inch of play. holding it there, tighten the bolts back (nice and snug). Never over tighten the bolts, they can snap on you. now start the car, and you should see the belt is not slipping any more. This job will take you about 20 to 30 minutes.

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How to tighten the altanator


There should be two or three bolts that hold it in place. One place will
have a slot where the bolt goes through, this allows the alt to move back and forth so the belt can be tightened, Use two open end or box
wrenches after you locate the bolts, one on the front and one on back.
Tighten which ever end you have room to move the wrench, you can probably use a socket on the front and a box end wrench on the back.

If your asking how to tighten the belt, loosen the bolts that hold the alt,just slightly, you will have to find something to hold the alt in place so there is tension on the belt and re tighten the bolts. Be care as not to damage the alt, you might need someone to help you, one apply s tension and one tightens the bolts.

Before I had a tension set, I used a large screwdriver, just be careful not to hurt anything.

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How can I tighten the alternator belts on a 1992 Saab 900? I had a shop replace the belts and tightened, which worked for about a month. Now, the belts feel loose, they make noise when starting in cold...


The belt should not be stretching this soon. From what you say about the alt light lighting up every morning and thie belt making noise. this leads me to belive that for some reason your alt is going to full output first thing to make up for a low battery. So either you have a drain on the battery overnight due to something not shutting off at night, or your battery is going dead. Both of these conditions would make the alt have to work extra hard first thing in the morning, wich could put a strain on the belt causing it to stretch on you. I would take it back to the shop and have both your alt and battery checked before worring about the belt. Other than that, the shop that put your belt on should adjust this for free if they didn't get it right the first time and tighten everthing back down as they should have.

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I need to replace my alternator


You need to first take off youre serptine belt. Inspect that and generally its a good idea to replace. Next there is a electrical connection on the alternator. DISCONNECT the battery FIRST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! then disconnect the connection on the alternator, there are a couple of bolts that attach the alternator to the engine. and then simply bolt on the new one, re-attach the electrical connection and then re-install the (new) belt.

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Changed water pump cant remember how belt goes


call or e-mail a car repair man and ask them to come to your house.It might cost a little money but your problem will be fixed.

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1993 saab 900 belt diagram


Sorry, I don't have access to a Bentley now. There are 4 belts, 2 for alternator etc, 1 for aircon and 1 for pwr steering.
The power steering belt goes round the power steering pump & crank pulley only.
The paired belts go round crank pulley, alternator and water pump.
The aircon belt goes round crank pulley, aircon compressor and tensioner.
Alternator / water pump pair are closest to the engine.
Power steering is in the middle (with aircon) or closest to the bulkhead (without aircon).
Aircon (if fitted) is closest to the bulkhead.

(1) If you do not have an AC compressor, skip this step and go to step 2. If you dohave one, begin by cutting any cable ties that hold the main wiringharness to the AC hoses. Lift the harness up and over onto the camcover until it's near the PCV valve, and is now out of your way.

All nuts & bolts in this step are 13 mm.

Then, slacken the 2 bolts attaching the AC tensioner pulley mount (athick triangular steel plate) to the head. Use a long box wrench (ringspanner, in Englishicon_cheesygrin.gif ).

Using a deep-wall socket (or an offset ratchet wrench, or plain wrench)on the adjuster nut, back it off until there's no more tension in thebelt (you won't be able to remove the belt yet, though).

Now, remove the upper of the 2 mounting bolts and its washer, and pivot the tensioner down; remove the belt.

Remove the lower bolt, and lift out the tensioner. Look the triangularplate over for cracks, and spin the pulley to see if its bearing issmooth and quiet. (If you find problems, the pulley is about $15 and www.eeuroparts.com sells the entiretensioner assembly for something like $70.) Back off the adjuster nutuntil it's about 1/4" (1/2 cm) from the end of its threaded rod (usevise-grips to clamp the rod's other end onto the triangular plate, orput the whole thing in a vise).

(2) Slacken the bolt and nut holding the power steering pump to thehead and to the RH engine mount, respectively. Slacken the adjuster nut(yes, anotherthreaded-rod type thing) by about 1/2" (1 cm). You can use a normalwrench for this, but it takes forever--so I made a special tool bytaking a cheapo 13 mm open-jaw wrench and bending it to a 45-degreeangle just below the jaws (cut it to length if it's too hard tomaneuver). Loosen the mounting nut until it's almost off (but not completely off,or you'll lose the bolt it screws onto--this bolt was designed to fallout when the nut is removed). Pull the nut end of the threaded rodtowards the firewall to get it of the adjuster fork. Push the pumptowards the engine centerline and pull its belt off (you may need topry with a screwdriver to get it out of the pump pulley completely).

(3) Slacken the 16 mm nut on top of the alternator. Back off the alt.adjuster's 10 mm nut about 1/2" (1 cm)--a ratcheting wrench helps here.(This is the last threaded rod--I promise.) Completely remove the 16 mmnut, and pull the adjuster towards the firewall until it's out of thealt.

Now for the clever part: Cut yourself a wedge from a piece of wood (2 x4 is perfect), with a rise of 3" (8 cm) and a run of about 12" (30 cm).Push the alt. towards the engine, and shove the wedge in between theside of the alt. and the coil-spring tower (master cylinder mountingbracket works, too). Keep pushing the alt. and driving the wedge downuntil the alt. is so close to the engine that it's compressing thelower heater hose.

Pull the outer belt off the alt. pulley. Working from the RH side ofthe car, lift the belt off the water pump pulley and then disengage itfrom the crank pulley. Now, pull the inner belt into the outergroove of the water pump pulley. Go back to the LH side of the car, andmove the inner belt into the alt. pulley's outer groove. Try removingit from this pulley; if too difficult, either wedge the alt. closer tothe engine or try pulling the belt off the water pump pulley from theRH side of the car (a helper is very useful for all this).

(4) Install the new inner belt by fitting it into its groove in thecrank pulley first. Work it into the outer grooves of the alt. andwater pump pulleys, then into the inner ones. Install the outerbelt--again, first onto the crank pulley, then the water pump and alt.pulleys.

Remove wedge. Insert tensioner into alt. making sure the threaded rodsettles into its fork, and refit its 16 mm nut--but don't fully tightenit yet. Tighten 10 mm adjuster nut until belts can be pushed in only1/2" (1 cm) by thumb pressure (applied 1/2 way between water pump andcrank pulleys).

(5) Push PS pump as close to engine centerline as possible, andfinger-tighten its mounting bolt to hold it there. Fit a new beltaround the crank pulley first, then work it into the pump pulley groovefrom the bottom of the pulley until it pops in. You may need to use both hands, and/or carefully pry the belt on with a screwdriver.

Loosen the bolt you just tightened. Pull the pump away from enginecenterline, insert threaded rod into its fork (you may have to back theadjuster nut off some more), tighten the mounting nut (but notcompletely), and screw in the adjuster nut until the belt deflects asdescribed in (4) above.

(6) Start the engine. Blip throttle, watching the belts deflect as theengine speed goes up and down. If the "blur" you see midway down eachbelt is over 1" (2 cm) wide, tighten the belt(s) until it isn't. Tighten the PS pump mounting nut and bolt, and the 16mm nut on the alt.

If your car doesn't have AC, your belt replacement is over!

(7) If you haveAC, reattach the tensioner to the head with the lower bolt only (andleave this bolt finger-tight). Fit the new belt around the crankpulley, then around the compressor pulley and, finally, around thetensioner.

Reinstall the top tensioner bolt and its washer. Be careful and patienthere--you're threading a steel bolt into aluminum, so make sure it goesin straight. You may have to back off the tensioner nut a little. Leavethis bolt finger-tight.

Screw in the adjuster nut to get the deflection as described in (4)above. Start the engine, and blip the throttle. Watch belt's "blur" on LHside of engine. Adjust as in (6). Switch on compressor, and repeat.

If satisfied, tighten the 2 tensioner bolts. Return wiring harness toits original position, and re-secure with cable ties if needed.

Dec 13, 2008 | 1999 Saab 9-5

2 Answers

How to replace a altenator belt on a 1995 plymouth neon


I had to put my 95 on ramps to make it easier to see. You have to loosen top adjustment nut, then in behind alternator is a bolt that goes through a plate that you have to turn clockwise, to tighten. I found it easier to see form under on ramps. You may have to loosen lower pivot bolt slightly too.

Oct 09, 2008 | 1996 Plymouth Neon

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