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Re: loss of clutch pedal barely disengages at very
Either the clutch is past its sell by date or the slave cylinder arm needs adjusting or the master cylinder needs replacing ,if its a cable it may need adjusting as well,if you are not sure how to go about this then ask a local mechanic if its possible to adjust the clutch ,if its easy they may not even charge you more than a cup of coffee
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About the only thing that would be left to check would be that the clutch pedal free travel is correct. It should be about ¼ inch (measured at the pedal rubber) before the push rod that links the pedal arm to the piston in the master cylinder contacts the piston If free travel is incorrect, adjust by first loosening the locknut on the rod at the end where it attaches to the pedal arm and turning the rod in either direction to obtain the correct free travel. One adjusted retighten locknut. You appear to have eliminated all the other possibilities, so the only other reasons for your problems could be that the clutch plate is warped and and therefore not disengaging fully or the pressure plate diaphragm spring is faulty and not allowing full disengagement.
You want to shorten the cable. Loosen the lock nut.Turn the cable adjuster clockwise to shorten the cable. This takes some skill, and knowledge to get the clutch adjusted just right. You want about 1/2 inch of free play in the pedal. All of this varies according to the wear on your clutch. You say your clutch is new, so acheving a proper adjustment should be no problem. Keep tweaking the adjustment to get it catching where you like it.
These year models are known for fatigue crack on the upper clutch pedal bracket. This bracket is welded to the dash frame and holds the cluth pedal. To inspect, use a flashlight and point upward illuminating the steel plate. Use your other hand to press on the clutch pedal while observing for plate movement or cracks on the plate itself. If the plate has a crack, its allowing the entire clutch pedal to swivel reducing cylinder and slave travel. If damaged, it must be welded with additional metal plates for increase strength.
possible clutch pedal hydrallics.If the clutch pedal has alot of freeplay before pressure,it will not produce enough travel to throwout clutch pressure plate which needs to fully disengage to switch gears while running.
Your clutch system works the same as brakes do. The necessity to bleed tells you that there is a malfunction permitting air into the system. Check where the pedal rod goes into the firewall under the dash, the line itself, and the slave unit (some are inside the bellhousing...look for fluid dripping from bottom to verify if leaking) Not unlike brake master, they can also internally bypass. If you find no leaks, change master. Bleed system and you should be fine
Look inside the vehicle at the firewall where the clutch pedal rod goes into the master cylinder. See if there is fluid running down the inside firewall. Next look at the bottom of the bellhousing to see if fluid has been coming out of it. That will tell you if it's the master or slave cylinder. Most likely it is the slave leaking inside the transmission bellhousing.
The clutch assy. is worn out. When a clutch is new the springs on the pressure plate sit flat. When you push on the clutch the springs don't have to move far to disengage, making it easy to press on the clutch pedal. As the clutch wears the fingers of the clutch spring move out, clutch pedal effort and travel increases to the point that the clutch will not disengage anymore. Along the life of the clutch the cable can be adjusted to minimize this. You have reached the end of the adjustment, sorry for the bad news but the clutch needs to be replaced.