Question about Saab 9 3
Use the trunk release button in the car....if you dont have one, you will have to call a locksmith, or get a duplicate key made by a SAAB dealer. Either way will cost ya about $50-$75
Posted on Apr 30, 2010
If you dont have other keys, call a locksmith or contact the dealer.
Here is a list of tech II adjustments that can be made for the trunk I got it from the Tech II Definitive list, I just did a search for trunk lid adjustment. The text in red is what I assume you all are lookin for hope this helps!! Not positive these things apply to the verts but I wouldn't see why not.
Single Press Unlock Only
Single Press Unlock + Open
Single Press unlock Double Press Open Single press of the remote or door switch will unlock boot
Single press of the remote or door switch will unlock and open boot
Single press of the remote or door switch will unlock double press will unlock and open boot.
Trunk Lock After Closing Yes/No
Yes: Automatically lock Boot on closing
No: Boot can be reopened using micro switch button located on the trunk/boot
Trunk Lock After Drive Off Yes/No
Yes: Trunk/Boot will automatically lock when vehicle increases speed
No:. Trunk/Boot will remain closed, however will be in the unlocked condition if No was selected in the previous option.
Door & Trunk Unlock at Key Out Yes/No
Yes: All Doors & Trunk/Boot will Unlock when the Key is removed from the Ignition Switch
If Driver frequently locked all Doors when driving this feature would be beneficial.
No: Doors and Boot will remain in the same condition as they were prior to Key removal
TSL Locking Logic
(Theft Security Locking/Deadlock) TSL at First Press
TSL at Second Press Driver Preference. Normal Locking or Dead Locking at first Press of Remote
TSL at firs Press: Default Setting. All Doors will lock in Deadlock Mode
TSL: at Second Press: All Doors will lock in Deadlock mode at the second press of the Remote.
Lock /Unlock Acknowledge None or Indicators Current vehicles fitted without Alarm can only option indicators only.
Posted on Apr 30, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
First, check the fuses for the hydraulic motor; if they're blown, replace and monitor (why did they blow? Perhaps an overload, or ...) These fuses are located in the engine bay on top of the fender by the front right wheel housing.
Next check the voltage supply to the top switch, possibly a loose connection or broken wire.
Also check relays C (raising top) and D (lowering top) under the rear seat.
Lastly check for voltage at the pump, also under the rear seat, when the switch is actuated, and that the voltage polarity reverses when the switch is actuated the other way (up or down).
After that, it's a hydraulic/mechanical problem. Check the fluid level in the pump reservoir (use SAAB fluid to top up if low) Fluid level should be at the upper marker with top down, and at the lower marker with top up.
Check behind the rear seat side panels that the piston shaft is still properly attached to the roof mechanism bracket at one end, and the piston itself is still firmly attached to the body. Look for any leakage from the system.
If all tests out OK and looks good under the rear seat and behind the side panels, then there is the possibility that the piston seals have failed and the fluid is just circulating around without activating the piston. Pistons are available (http://www.convertibletopguys.com/cgi-local/displaycat.cgi?cat=584 - scroll down) but the entire system should be removed to avoid getting hydraulic fluid on the interior.
However, that fact that you can operate the hood using the bypass valve (manually) would indicate that the hydraulics are likely OK, and that it's probably an electrical or mechanical problem.
Posted on Aug 09, 2009
I had this same problem and I fixed it by opening up the door panel and accessing the door handle mechanism by removing the membrane that covers up the access holes. After watching the mechanism work by manually lifting and lowering the lock as well as actuating the door handle, I noticed that the door handle mechanism was causing the lock to bind as a return spring was not letting the mechanism return to neutural after the door handle was actuated. This blocked the mechanism from unlocking even with the key. Believe it or not all that was required was a little wd - 40 on the mechanism and the problem disappeared. The lock once again worked both with the key and with the remote. 15 minutes to take off the door panel 25 minutes to diagnose, 20 minutes to think about what might be causing the spring not to work correctly and less than a minute to remedy. I hope that I can save you the 45 minutes. Good Luck
Posted on Aug 02, 2009
If the fuse is okay, check to see that the latch is not bound in some way, and that it is properly lubricated. A dry latch sometimes will not release.
Posted on Nov 03, 2009
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