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if it is a front ring remove front vertical link , you will see a spring locking device remove this a special tool is then needed to unscrew the abs ring if this is not availiable you try heating up the ring and using a drift, or drill down the side of the ring and splitting it with small chisel but you will need the special tool to fit the new one, they are TIGHTas they retain the hub bearing. if it is a rear one remove the rear hub carrier making sure you mark the track adjustment bolt to maintain rear wheel track. you should then be able to carefully remove the abs ring as it only trapped by the drive shaft, renew the hub nut
the brakes are pretty much just like any car,remove the fluid reservoir cap,then the tires,then disconnect the neg term on the battery,remove the calibers,then compress with a c clamp,then install,..the bearing are removed by releasing the hub assembly by removing the axle bolts and pin, i will send pictures Monday if need be...once the bearings are replaced make sure the hub isnt overtightened...and put the reservoir cap back on the brake unit...
YOU NEED ARBOR PRESS TO REMOVE INNER RACE FROM THE HUB.YOU NEED SEAL REMOVER TOOL SST 09308-00010 YOU NEED SNAP RING PLIERS YOU NEED BEARING DRIVER DRIVE BEARING FROM THE STEERING KNUCKLE.THE CHEAPER ROUTE IS TO BUY WHEEL BEARING AT A AUTO PARTS STORE THAT IT TO A SHOP THAT DOES BRAKES AND FRONT AND REAR SUSPENSION WORK.BUY THE TOOLS GOING COST.
First block the rear wheels so they won't roll.
2. Jack the front end up and put on jack stands don't trust the jack for long periods of time.
3. Remove front wheels and brake calipers.
4. In the center of the rotor as you look at it is a dust cover remove this
5. There should be a lock cap with a cotter pin thru it, remove the pin and lock cap
6. Remove the nut holding the bearings in place.
7. Remove rotor by pulling toward you, be careful the bearings will come out also, don't let them fall or get dirty.
8. There is a seal in the back of the rotor to give access to inner bearing.
9. Replace seals and repack inner and outer bearings and reverse to install. Being careful not to over tighten the front wheel bearings. If you do they wil sieze up then you have a real mess.
For the most part it is very similar to doing a brake job, you will need to gain access to disc area. once you have removed the caliper you will need to remove the dust cap, this will allow you to remove the nut that secures the disc to the spindle. after you access to the front bearing, remove and set aside, put washer and nut back on, slide rotor out tapping it to remove rear bearing, remove nut/washer and hand pack with wheel bearing grease. re assemble, check and bleed brakes if necessary, Good Luck!
Should just have to unbolt the 3 or 4 bolts holding it in the spindle. No special tools are required. You should be able to get to them with a wrench if you have to. Plus you do have to undo the nut holding the axle in.
Too bad I am not at work I could call on a price for a bearing. To be honest that is not too bad of a price on a bearing installed. Most Jag parts need to be purchased from Jag. A typical price for a sealed hub bearing unit is about $140 retail for a chevy corsica(just did 2 on one on monday) to about $300-400 on a ford super duty. and that is not including labor. You need air tools, a torque wrench and lock tight thread locker for this job. And something to remove any corrosion from mounting surfaces 1. jack up car,take wheel off. 2. remove brake caliper 3.remove rotor 4.remove whats holding bearing on. Either one big nut on outside or three to four bolts that hold it to the knukle. this is how most cars are now,if its rear wheel drive its a peice of cake ,fwd is a little more difficult.
Remove the wheel and the brake caliper. Remove the two 18mm bolts that
hold the brake caliper bracket, and remove it and the rotor. Remove the
small bolt that holds the antilock brake sensor and remove the sensor.
Remove the 32mm axle nut. The nut may be hard to remove but it is right
hand thread. You can remove the two 18mm bolts from the bottom of the
strut and swing the whole wheel bearing assembly out just barely far
enough to remove the axle without removing the lower ball joint. The
axle is splined in the wheel bearing assembly and you can knock it out
with a block of hard wood and a hammer. Reach back along the axle with
a long extension and remove the two nuts holding the axle carrier
bearing. Be careful not to let the axle fall down and damage the axle
seal in the transmission. The axle should slide easily out of the
transmission and only a tiny bit of fluid will leak out. Hope this
helps. Good luck.