30 amp fuse for IP shows a constant draw and kills the battery.

Yes Steve I do , that fuse supply's power to the I/P fuse block inside the vehicle . It powers AUX/PWR fuse #13 -20amp , RDO/BATT fuse #19 - 15amp ,MIR/LKS fuse #7 - 5amp , CTSY/LP fuse #8 - 15 amp , CIGAR/LTR fuse #2 15 amp , PWR/LKS fuse #14 15 amp , HDLP/SW fuse #1 - 10amp .Do you know where the I/P fuse block is ? You would need to do a parasitic draw test ! This involves hooking up a amp meter in series with the negative battery post an negative battery cable . Pulling each one of these fuses till the battery draw stops ! How To Perform Parasitic Draw Test EricTheCarGuy check out Eric the car guy's video on the subject !

You have a parasitic draw. Something is drawing power while the truck is sitting. Do you have any aftermarket items hooked to direct power? Something you leave plugged in to the 12V plug (cig lighter) Some 12v plugs are full time power and some are only powered with ignition on. Any amps wired direct power? If you have no aftermarket accessories drawing constant power you then need to determine what circuit has the draw. An amp clamp on the battery cable will show draw, then re & re 1 fuse at a time until you find the one that eliminates the draw. Once you've done that you need to find the problem on that circuit. All this is assuming your charging system is working and the battery is being properly charged while you're driving the truck.

dont know much about the land cruiser, check draw on the fuses,each fuse should read low draw and one of them will be higher than the rest like one will show up near 1 volt or more and theres your issue, check what that fuse goes to and inspect it, usually people install after market add ons wrong and wire it to a constant power source.

I had a 1992 dakota for 18.5 years

Have you put an amp meter in one of the battery cables,
to see if you have more than 30 Milli-Amps?

Only the computer & radio clock stay alive all night

Your alternator. Rebuilt how? Are the diodes leaking
& killing your battery?

What Codes do you have?
I will look in my 92 manual for you

Disconnect the alternator overnight

Next start pulling fuses with that meter in there, until
you find no current draw large enough to run a battery down

The ignition switch may be bad & powering the alternator field
all night. Have to check wiring diagrams for that

Hi, those are essentially shorting bars to connect rows on the hot buss. You need to check the individual fuses to find the draw. Please see my tip at http://www.fixya.com/cars/r5925550-dead_battery_troubleshooting . These are genericinstructions.

You are doing the correct thing, you will need to try and loctate the draw, you will need a meter connected to the battery that shows the amp dram, an amp meter, you turn key off and close all door and see the amount of draw on the battery then start pulling one fuse at a time until the draw drops, the normal draw may be about .03. good day.

alternator diode faulty

to check for a parasitic battery drain, you will need a multimeter. set it on the 300 mA setting then remove the negative battery cable on the vehicle. put the multimeter's negative lead on the battery post and the positive lead on the vehicle's negative cable. the meter will tell you how many amps are being drawn. usually, there's a temporary spike (a second or two) for the vehicle's security system, relays, etc. after that, you should only see a draw of approximately 30-40 mA, which is the digital clock, memory settings on the radio, etc. if you're seeing a larger draw, you can begin removing main fuses in the fuse box under the hood to see where the draw is coming from. it's also possible that you may have a bad diode in the alternator, which would cause the alternator to draw current away from the battery when the engine is not running.

ATC, auto traction control. this is to maintain stability during slippage. you may have a closed sensor circuit that is continuing to drain power when the ignition switch is in the off position. Tcb is a module fuse. I would preform the test below to isolate any other draws that may exist.


Here is the procedure I use to isolate a battery drain. Remove negative battery cable from the battery. Using a 12-volt test light, hook one end to the negative battery post the other end to the negative battery cable you just disconnected. The test light will glow or "light" if there is a drain. If the "light or glow" is faint, that is probably normal draw for the clock or computer. If the "light or glow" is bright, then there is a large drain. That should be corrected. Now start removing and replacing the fuses one by one until the light goes out; that one will be the circuit with the drain. Remember to hold in the button in the door jam for the interior lights.