Question about 1989 Ford F 250

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89 f250 new coil, new control module, still no spark whats next -suppression resistor

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Check to see if there is a dwell signal from the distributor. Use a test light and ground the test light lead to a good ground, and then using the test light check the Neg. (-) side of the ignition coil, have someone crank the engine over and you should see the test light blink off and on showing that there is a dwell signal or "pulse" to the ignition coil.

If the test light stays steady and does not flash when the engine is cranking over, then the pick-up coil inside of the distributor is bad and you should replace it or the distributor.

Posted on Apr 29, 2010

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Simple solution will be to run a wire from the ignition "on" position to the resistor and then from the resistor to the coil positive. Then run a seperate wire from the ignition "start" position directly to the coil positive. To determine which wire is wich on the ignition you will need a voltmeter or test lamp to measure each of the terminals on the rear of the ignition in each position.

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The above set-up will give a lower voltage to the coil at normal running and an increased voltage at start-up as it bypasses the resistor when starting. This may cause a new set of problems such as low coil voltage and subsequent weak spark. I would suggest that you first make sure you have the correct type of sparkplug fitted. It may be that your vehicle originally came with suppressed plugs or suppressed plug wires. If the suppressors were removed it may cause high current draw on the secondary side of the coil and also lead to overheating.

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check the voltage of the b+ terminal of the ignition coil (primary side) with a cheap multimeter while cranking. low voltage to the primary will cause low voltage on the secondary. also recheck all ground paths from the ignition module. ensure good connection from coil to module. note: new parts are not "known good parts" until it runs.--> IG.MOD.

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