How do adjust my HandBrake , I have a BMW 316i

There are several things that can make a hand brake stick on. It possible the cable attached to the leaver has come off it guide. There is a cable running from each rear wheel to the handbrake leaver , a inner cable running through a outer housing , chick that the inner cable is free to move back and forward . if all the cables are free to slide adjust the rear brakes and hand brake as instructions . Slacken off the hand brake cable adjustment. Jack up the rear wheals and adjust the brake shoes till the brakes lock, then back off till the wheels are free to turn. Then pull the hand brake leaver on two clicks and adjust the hand brake cable till the rear wheels just start to bind, release the hand brake leaver and check the wheels are free to turn.

Silencer hanging down, brakes binding, tyres side ballooning inside edge, no oil in Differential.

The Kia Carnival has drum brakes on the rear and they are self adjusting. They can however be adjusted by working the handbrake lever up and down a few times, if it has not been previously adjusted by using the cable adjustment, then this will probably not work, and it is something I come across quite a lot. if all this fails, then it is a matter of taking the wheels off and removing the drum. firstly check the position of the handbrake actuating lever (its connected to the cable) with the handbrake off (wheels chocked of course) the lever should be as far back as possible to the brake shoe, if it isn't check that you have a little bit of slack on the cable and it is not seized if not adjust the cable off a little so the levers return fully. if you look you will see the self adjuster you can turn the notched wheel a few clicks and then put the drum back on. make sure it is not binding when you turn it (a slight rub is ok) tap the drum (top, bottom, left, right) to centre the shoes (this is important because it will give false adjustment if you don't). once you have done this to both sides, double check both wheels are still running free. replace wheels a try handbrake, it should be ok now. Check how many clicks you need to pull the lever to apply brake and adjust the cable just enough to remove any slack in it, NO MORE. Warning! DO NOT HIT THE DRUM HARD AS IT WILL CAUSE FRACTURES. I hope that has been of some help to you.

Make sure your handbrake cable is adjusted properly. Adjust the rear brake shoes down to where the wheels turn freely with the linings only just touching the drums. Be sure to pump the pedal a few times after adjusting, then try again.
The front wheels (pads and calipers) will just about never bind, so concentrate on the rear wheels. If you do suspect the front wheels, release the bleeder valve for just a second and then try again.

Hello, My usual Brands are Ford products, but Foreign cars usually use simple, less expensive ways to do things. Assuming the brake pads are good, there should be a cable connected to the handbrake. You would usually pull the handbrake up to engage about 1/4 the way to engagement and lock it there.
Then you would go underneath the car and find the cable that stretches from the handbrake lever to a juction with a second cable. There should be an adjusting thread somewhere at this intersection.

With the rear wheels off the ground, you would tighten the nut on the threads of the handbrake cable until you hear rubbing in the rear brakes. Then get inside the car and pull back on the handbrake lever and you should not be able to move the rear wheels with the handbrake set. You then release the handbrake 100% and the rear wheels should turn mostly without noise.

Now if you can not find an adjustment nut under the car, it is possible the handbrake adjustment nut is under the handbrake cover/boot inside the car. Still use the same process of setting the lever 1/4 engaged and tightening the threaded cable until the rear wheels start dragging.

I hope this helps you.

the rachet and lock on the handbrake handle itself is faulty and either needs 'loooking' at or replacing. leave the car in gear in addition to the handbrake to make sure ur car doesnt do a runner while u are waiting for repairs.

remove cover between seats to expose cable adjusters and back them off till slack. jack up rear of car (chock front wheels) remove a rear wheel stud and you can view the star wheel adjuster inside the drum, with a thin screwdriver wind it up till wheel locks then back off about 15 clicks, do same on other wheel, wind up adjusters inside car till wheels lock at about 5 clicks, check for binding when h / brake is fully down, thats it.

Seems like your rear brakes are staying stuck in locked position when you release the E-brake. Try to adjust the e-brake from under the car first. If that does not work then remove the rear drum, and there is a adjustment bolts. Turn it a few turns put back on the drum and try again.

Hi, if you lift the hand brake gaitor that covers the lever you will see what looks like a spring with a washer and a clip passing through the washer. Release the handbrake lever to release tension on the cable then unclip the clip from the washer, then you will need to remove one wheel bolt to gain access to the adjuster rod. Raise the rear wheels so that they rotate freely and look through the hole left by the removed wheel bolt untill you see a toothed wheel. Using a long screwdrive you will need to adjust this wheel untill the road wheel does not move then wind the toothed wheel backwards (approx 6 teeth) do this for both wheels, once done fully release the hand brake lever and the clip should relocate in the washer, this should then have adjusted the hand brake

there most be alignment scows at the back of the lamps