Question about 1993 Nissan Quest

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Starting at 65 mph steering wheel shakes. 4 new tires, both axles replaced, outer tie rods replaced, ball joints replaced, front struts and rear shocks replaced.

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A tire could be out of balance.

Posted on Sep 28, 2014

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Could have bent rim,,even thow,,balance was done,,depends on how mush weight was used to balance?? rotate tires from frt to rear,,see if problem still exits,,ck bearing play,,hoped it helped

Posted on Apr 28, 2010

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3 Answers

I have 04 vue. Fwd 3.5. How do i change out right side cv axle? I can't free end that goes into carriage bearing?


remove lower ball joint and remove axle nut in the center of spindle. then move the spindle out of the way separating the axle from the spindle.

Mar 28, 2015 | 2004 Saturn VUE

2 Answers

Front right tire wobbles as if out of balance at speeds of 60-65 mph even after getting it balanced.


Assuming the wheel and mounted tire is balanced and the wheel is not bent would point to play in the front end suspension ball joints (control arm ,steering arm, tie rod), worn suspension bushings, or worn strut cartridges. However, some balancing is done at low revolutions rather than high speed balancing. The tire itself could have a belt that is separating in the tire that gets worse the faster it goes. Was the tire dismounted and remounted? Do you see a noticeable odd wear pattern on the tread? With the car up on a jackstand, grab the wheel at 12 and 6 o'clock and try to shake looking for play; then do the same thing at 9 and 3 o'clock. Check that all of the rods rods are tight especially near the ball joint and the bushings have not deteriorated. Loose wheel lug bolts/nuts are another cause.

Oct 13, 2014 | 2005 Toyota Corolla

1 Answer

Replace cv joints


Hi Douglas, I'm glad to help. My first suggestion is to get to complete shaft. This way you want have any problems later on. It's not that much more expensive and you'll be glad you did. Below is the procedure for replacing them.



FRONT DRIVESHAFTS

REMOVAL
  1. Raise vehicle on jack stands or centered on a frame contact type hoist. Refer to Hoisting in the Lubrication And Maintenance section of this manual for the required lifting procedure to be used for this vehicle.
  2. Remove the cotter pin and nut lock Hub And Bearing To Stub Axle Retaining Nut from the end of the stub axle.
  3. Remove the wheel and tire assembly from the vehicle.
  4. Remove the wave washer Wave Washer from the end of the stub axle CAUTION: Wheel bearing damage will result if after loosening hub nut, vehicle is rolled on the ground or the weight of the vehicle is allowed to be supported by the tires.
  5. With the vehicle's brakes applied to keep hub from turning, loosen and remove the stub axle to hub nut.
  6. Remove the two front disc brake caliper to steering knuckle attaching bolts Front Disc Brake Caliper Attaching Bolts
  7. Remove the disc brake caliper from the steering knuckle. Caliper is removed by first rotating top of caliper away from steering knuckle and then removing bottom of caliper out from under machined abutment on steering knuckle Brake Caliper Mounting To Steering Knuckle
  8. Support disc brake caliper assembly by using a wire hook and suspending it from the strut assembly Correctly Supported Disc Brake Caliper Do not allow the brake caliper assembly to hang by the brake flex hose.
  9. Remove the brake rotor from the hub and bearing assembly Remove/Install Brake Rotor
  10. Remove nut attaching outer tie rod end to steering knuckle Removing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut Nut is to be removed from tie rod end using the following procedure, hold tie rod end stud with a 11/32 socket while loosening and removing nut with a wrench.
  11. Remove tie rod end from steering knuckle using Remover, Special Tool MB-991113 Tie Rod End Removal From Steering Knuckle Arm
  12. Remove the steering knuckle to ball joint stud, clamping nut and bolt Control Arm To Steering Knuckle Attachment from the steering knuckle.
  13. Using a pry bar, separate steering knuckle from ball joint stud Separating Ball Joint Stud From Steering Knuckle Note: Use caution when separating ball joint stud from steering knuckle, so ball joint seal does not get cut. NOTE: Care must be taken not to separate the inner C/V joint during this operation. Do not allow driveshaft to hang by inner C/V joint after removing outer C/V Joint from the hub/bearing assembly in steering knuckle, end of driveshaft must be supported.
  14. Pull steering knuckle assembly out and away from the outer C/V joint of the driveshaft assembly Steering Knuckle Separation From Driveshaft
  15. Support the outer end of the driveshaft assembly. Insert a pry bar between inner tripod joint and transaxle case Disengaging Inner Tripod Joint From Transaxle Pry against inner tripod joint, until tripod joint retaining snap ring is disengaged from transaxle side gear.
  16. Hold inner tripod joint and interconnecting shaft of driveshaft assembly. Remove inner tripod joint from transaxle, by pulling it straight out of transaxle side gear and transaxle oil seal Tripod Joint Removal from Transaxle When removing tripod joint, do not let spline or snap ring drag across sealing lip of the transaxle to tripod joint oil seal.
INSTALLATION
  1. Thoroughly clean spline and oil seal sealing surface, on tripod joint. Lightly lubricate oil seal sealing surface on tripod joint with fresh clean transmission lubricant.
  2. Holding driveshaft assembly by tripod joint and interconnecting shaft, install tripod joint into transaxle side gear as far as possible by hand Tripod Joint Removal from Transaxle
  3. Grasp inner tripod joint an interconnecting shaft. Forcefully push the tripod joint into side gear of transaxle, until snap ring is engaged with transaxle side gear. Test that snap ring is fully engaged with side gear by attempting to remove tripod joint from transaxle by hand. If snap ring is fully engaged with side gear, tripod joint will not be removable by hand.
  4. Clean all debris and moisture out of steering knuckle, in the area were outer C/V joint will be installed into steering knuckle.
  5. Ensure that front of outer C/V joint which fits against the face of the hub and bearing is free of debris and moisture before installing outer C/V joint into hub and bearing assembly Outer C/V Joint Inspection
  6. Slide drive shaft back into front hub and bearing assembly. Then install steering knuckle onto the stud of the ball joint assembly Steering Knuckle Separation From Driveshaft
  7. Install a new steering knuckle to ball joint clamping bolt and nut Control Arm To Steering Knuckle Attachment Tighten the clamping bolt and nut to a torque of 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.)
  8. Install tie rod end into steering knuckle. Start attaching nut onto stud of tie rod end. While holding stud of tie rod end stationary using a 11/32 socket, Removing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut tighten tie rod end to steering knuckle attaching nut. Then using a crowfoot and 11/32 socket Torquing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut , tighten the tie rod end attaching nut to a torque of 54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.)
  9. Install braking disc on hub and bearing assembly Remove/Install Brake Rotor
  10. Install disc brake caliper assembly on steering knuckle. Caliper is installed by first sliding bottom of caliper under abutment on steering knuckle, and then rotating top of caliper against top abutment Brake Caliper Mounting To Steering Knuckle
  11. Install disc brake caliper assembly to steering knuckle attaching bolts Front Disc Brake Caliper Attaching Bolts Tighten the disc brake caliper assembly attaching bolts to a torque of 22 N·m (195 in. lbs.)
  12. Clean all foreign matter from the threads of the outer C/V joint stub axle. Install the washer and stub axle to hub/bearing assembly nut on stub axle and securely tighten nut.
  13. Install front wheel and tire assembly. Install and tighten the wheel mounting stud nuts in proper sequence until all nuts are torqued to half the required specification. Then repeat the tightening sequence to the full specified torque of 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.)
  14. Lower vehicle.
  15. With the vehicle's brakes applied to keep hub from turning, tighten the hub nut to a torque of 244 N·m (180 ft. lbs.) Torquing Front Stub Axle To Hub Nut
  16. Install the spring wave washer on the end of the stub axle.
  17. Install the hub nut lock, and a new cotter pin Hub And Bearing To Stub Axle Retaining Nut Wrap cotter pin prongs tightly around the hub nut lock as shown in Hub And Bearing To Stub Axle Retaining Nut
  18. Check for correct fluid level in transaxle assembly. Refer to Group 21, Transaxle for the correct fluid level checking procedure for the type of transaxle being checked.
  19. Set front toe on vehicle to required specification.

May 07, 2014 | 2000 Dodge Caravan

1 Answer

Vibration at 70 MPH.


Warped or out-of balance brake rotor? Also keep in mind that loose rear differential trailing arms that allow the rear differential to squirm around can also cause steering wheel shake.

May 19, 2012 | 1998 Jeep Cherokee

1 Answer

FRONT END SHAKES WHILE DRIVING OVER BUMPS


It could be several things. First check your shocks by pushing down on the bumper with your knee 3 quick times to make it bounce. It should come up and down once, stopping in the middle of the second up. If it moves any more than that the shocks or struts need replacing.

Then check your tie rod ends and ball joints. There are 4 tie rod ends on your vehicle. They are attached to the front wheel and the steering box. There is an outer one on the wheel and an inner one at the steering rack. Try to move them side to side or up and down. Any movement means they need to be replaced.

To check the ball joints, you will have to jack the wheel up so it is clear of the ground. Grab the tire at 12 and 6 o'clock and try to move it in and out. If it moves, then have someone watch as you move it and see if the movement is at the bottom ball joint or the top one, if your car has an upper ball joint. Front wheel drive cars with spring/strut suspension don't have upper ball joints.

I would be inclined to suspect the tie rod ends as being your problem, but it could easily be multiple things so check them all. Hope this helps.

Nov 18, 2011 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to replace lower left front ball joint ?


Removal & Installation NOTE This procedure requires the use of the following special tools: J 9519-E Lower Ball Joint Remover and Installer, J 34874 Booster Seal Remover/Installer, J 41435 Ball Joint Installer, J 45105-1 Ball Joint Flaring Adapter and J 45105-2 Receiver.

  1. On 4WD vehicles, remove the wheel center cap and drive axle nut.
  2. Raise and support the vehicle.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Tire and wheel
    • Wheel hub and bearing, if necessary
    • Outer tie rod retaining nut
    • Out tie rod from the steering knuckle using a suitable puller
    • Brake hose bracket retaining bolts and bracket
    • Upper control arm-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt and nut
    • Upper control arm from the steering knuckle
    • Lower ball joint retaining nut
    • Steering knuckle from the lower control arm using a suitable ball joint removal tool
    • Steering knuckle from the vehicle
    • Lower ball joint flange with a chisel
  4. Install tools J 9519-E and J 34874 to the lower ball joint, then use those tools to remove the lower ball joint from the lower control arm.
To install:
  1. Install or connect the following:
    • Lower ball joint to the lower control arm, using tools J 9519-E, J 41435 and J 45105-2
  2. Remove the tools from the lower control arm.
    • Tools J 9519-E and J 45105-1 to the lower ball joint
  3. Flare the lower ball joint flange with J 9519-E and J 45105-1, then remove the tools from the lower ball joint.
    • Steering knuckle to the lower control arm
    • Lower ball joint retaining nut and tighten to 81 ft. lbs. (110 Nm)
    • Upper control arm to the steering knuckle
    • Upper control arm pinch bolt and nut and tighten to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm)
    • Brake hose bracket to the steering knuckle
    • Brake hose bracket retaining nuts and tighten to 7 ft. lbs. (10 Nm)
    • Outer tie rod to the steering knuckle
    • Outer tie rod retaining nut and tighten to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm)
    • Wheel hub and bearing, if removed
    • Tire and wheel
  4. Lower the vehicle
    • Drive axle nut, if 4WD, and tighten to 103 ft. lbs. (140 Nm)
    • Wheel center cap, if removed
  5. Check the front wheel alignment.

Nov 30, 2009 | 2002 Oldsmobile Bravada

3 Answers

1997 Grand Prix GT with 134,000 mi has a slight vibration/shimmy felt at the steering wheel at speeds above 65 mph. All new struts fwd and aft, alignment and new wheels and tires have been replaced in the...


If your tires were not properly balanced then it will cause that. Also, if your rotors are warped then icould cause this to happen. YOu would also notice it when braking if rotors are warped.

Oct 20, 2009 | Pontiac Grand Prix Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a 1986 chevy s10 blazer 4x4 with the 2.8 motor...When I reach between 60 and 65 mph. the blazer shakes real bad. I replaced both front axle shafts, inner and outer tie rods and sleeves. It has new...


Have you checked the U-joints in the rear drive shaft? Also did this happen before the tires were replaced? Take the truck back to where you got the tires and have them check the balance, they should do this for free.

Mar 05, 2009 | 1986 Chevrolet S-10 Blazer

1 Answer

I have a 2002 monte carlo and it shakes reallt bad at 50 mph and turning curves at 25 mph speeds and up...also going down hills and pushing the brakes..i just had new rotors and brakes put on the front...


I'm going to bet that you didn't do anything about checking the following:
  1. Tie Rods and ball joints.
  2. Shocks/struts...front and rear
  3. Wheel balance
  4. Condition of the tires.
If you don't know how to check the first two, do the following: jack front wheel up and insert a stand. Then take the bottom of the tire and pull up quickly and hard...does it 'click'? Now, do the same from front to back. Up and down wear is ball joints...side to side is tie rods. Get a mechanic to help you. Many chains will inspect for a modest fee.

If a tire is worn because of worn front end parts...the wheel can't hold a proper position in relation to the steering wheel...it wears the tires. They go out of balance and will shake at 25 mph. Check for rounded sidewalls and uneven wear. Replace the tires after getting new front end parts installed and aligned. Check your shocks/struts for excess wear or leaking. They contribute poor ride, to wear and sloppy handling


Jul 23, 2008 | Chevrolet Monte Carlo Cars & Trucks

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