Question about Peugeot 405

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Hi I have Peugeot 307 SW 2.0 litre diesel (2003), engine - DW10ATED. Time has come to replace a timing belt. I would like to do it myself. Read through many forums but no exact work instructions could find. Read through Haynes manual but if I follow it, I would have to take half of my car apart just to replace a cam belt (i.e. remove whole exhaust system as if it is not removed, the front pipe flexible section will be damaged when the right-hand engine mounting is detached). Looks strange, because at the beginning, it suggests to support engine on axel stands at the bottom. I just getting more confused what is actually is necessary to do. I cannot believe dealer would do all this and charge just about £350. What really concerns me is that manual strongly recommends electronic belt tension checking tool and as not experienced mechanic I most definitely would not be able to tension belt correctly without it. On Sep 06, 2009 has been posted link to the work instructions from Wahs team. Would it be possible to post it again? Maybe this would put more light or completely put me off of this job. Thank you

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  • euno Apr 29, 2010


    Thank you for the recommendations.

    Few more details, on my car there is no spring tensioner but two manual tensioners that would have to be positioned correctly to tension the belt. How can I make sure I tension the belt not too strong and not too loose? Can I position tensioners in same positions after replacing belt and assume that belt tension is right or I still require a special tool?

    Thank you

  • euno Apr 30, 2010


    I have no idea what is going on. I just replied to your message with other comments and asked for some more details. Why has it gone to other expert, I have no idea.

    My main concern is still the same: how I tension the belt correctly? Do I necessary need electronic measuring device or if I tighten tensioners (they are not spring loaded) in a same positions, it is fine o assume that belt will be tensioned same as previuos was?


  • euno Apr 30, 2010


    Do I necessary need electronic belt tension measuring device or if I locate tensioners in same positions I can assume belt is tensioned correctly, just as previuos was?

    Do I necessary need to replace water pump or only if it is leaking or pulley bearing has warned off?

    Thank you



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There is specail tool set for this job, the set includes the tensioner setting tool, without that tool u run the risk of breaking the belt or haviong it come off, here is a link to the tool set.
here is the number of kit
2212-CP Timing tool set for Citroën + Peugeot
For Citroën C5, Xsara, Xsara Picasso and
Peugeot 206, 307, 406, 407, 607, 806
with 1,8 - 2,0 - 2,0 HPi - 2,2 petrol engine.
OEM numbers: 0189R, 0189S1, 0189S2,
0189A, 0189AZ, 0189B, 0189C, 0189J, 0189K, 0189L

Posted on Apr 30, 2010

  • yadayada
    yadayada Apr 30, 2010

    the tool kit is made by a company called MIDLOCK


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Once the support is placed on, then you can remove the engine mounting. This way it will not allow the flexible pipe to be damaged.The belt needs to be passed once the engine support is out and belt ready to go in place. The manual says it right but it just sometimes does not tell you further tricks on what to do. I would suggest you get a car jack( the one that lift your car up whenever you need changing a tyre) underneath the engine for this support. Be sure you place the belt in the correct timing. Hope this helps. Good luck with this.

Posted on Apr 29, 2010

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Locate and identify these items. Mounted on the front top of the engine is the auxiliary air device. The two (2) 3/4" ID hoses coming off the auxiliary air device go to the intake hose just behind the air flow sensor, Idle adjustment and to the rear side of the throttle control, (remember sitting in the drivers seat). Air flow sensor is mounted over the air filter. The ign ECU is located under the passenger front floor mat. The inj ECU is located behind the glove box. Throttle body mounted to intake manifold. Wire #22 located between air filter and fender. DO NOT USE A SILICONE BASED SEALER, the fumes will give the sensors a false reading.
Drain the coolant system and remove, the battery ground cable, the radiator shroud on automatic cars, the radiator, the spark plugs, the auxiliary air device, the thermostat housing and the alternator. On manual shift cars, engage fifth gear and apply park brake. On automatic shift cars, remove the bell housing inspection plate with the TDC sensor (do not alter its setting). Lock the ring gear to keep the crank from moving, the book calls for a special tool { (-).0144B } to lock the ring gear but any means will suffice. Remove the crank pulley and timing belt cover. Slide the pulley back on. Remove the ring gear lock or shift to neutral on manual shift cars.
Look at the cam sprocket and locate the rectangular hole. On the outer edge, locate the timing mark. Rotate the crank until that hole and timing mark is in a 45 degree position on the passenger side (its right, your left) of the car and the distributor finger is perpendicular to the engine's axis (straight up).
Loosen the tensioner nut and bolt, with a screwdriver or pry bar, force the tensioner against the spring, to slacken the timing belt, until the support plate is at the end of its travel, lock the nut and bolt. Remove the timing belt.
Handling of the timing belt should be done with great care. Never bring the belt in contact with oil or greasy substances. Never make the belt bow to an arc less than 60mm diameter (don't fold it).
Check the condition of the belt. Check the gap between the tensioner support plate and the set screw mounted above the intermediate sprocket, should be between 0,10 and 0,15 mm, If this is not the case then remove the lock nut, coat the threads with LOCTITE, adjust the gap and tighten the lock nut.
Make sure the crankshaft is in the timing position with the mark to your left and parallel to the ground. Remove the pulley. Check the intermediate sprocket, make sure the timing mark is about 20 degrees below parallel and to your right. Double check the cam and install the belt. The arrows on the outside of the belt indicate the direction of engine rotation. Insure that each reference mark on the belt lines up with the timing marks on the sprockets, starting with the crankshaft. Center the belt on the sprockets and on the tensioner, loosen the tensioner bolt and nut. The belt is automatically adjusted by the spring. Double check the reference marks and tighten the tensioner nut and bolt to a torque of 2,5 mdaN (18.13 ft lbs).
Reinstall the timing belt cover.
Make sure the two (2) split pins are in place and reinstall the pulley. Degrease and brush clean the pulley bolt, coat the threads with LOCTITE and torque to 13 mdaN (94.25 ft lbs).
Reinstall all the items removed on disassembly in reverse order of removal. Reconnect all electrical equipment and adjust belt tension.
Refill cooling system and use proper bleeding procedures.

I cant emphasize enough on the importance of putting this back together EXACTLY how it was. Many many times over and over again people try to do it themselfs and do not succeed i strongly suggest u do not try to do it because if your not skilled enough to do this then i can guarantee it is going to cost you more then just taking it in. I know its expensive but why waste your time to do it then have to pay someone to do the same thing now your out a car 2x as long. Hope i could help if you decide to try it take your time and good luck

Posted on Apr 27, 2010

  • dave taylor Apr 30, 2010

    im not sure what happend it says that you are being helped by someone else now did I not answer your question?

  • dave taylor Apr 30, 2010

    i would go get the electric belt tensioner generally you can go to autozone or oriely's and rent the tool and get your money back when you take it back. And i see your asking about the waterpump most of the time it leaks when goes bad but lastime i had the bearings in the pulley go out so i would give it a spin to see how it sounds if its not leaking and spins ok then your fine.


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