Question about Isuzu Pickup

2 Answers

How to determine if a condenser is still functional.

Every time a mechanic change the contact point of my gasoline engine car he always change the condenser. Is this always necessary? What are the signs I could observe at the contact point to have it changed? What remedies I could do or a mechanic could do before it has to be finally changed? Am asking this on the basis of getting stalled anywhere and perhaps could do something to reach the nearest shop.

Posted by on

  • vulture5843 Apr 27, 2010

    Thanks Zaraki, you've been most helpful.Am just an ordinary owner driver but has the knack of asking what and how a problem (like this one now on a car)came about and perhaps to get feed backs/tips I could as a novice do to troubleshoot partly till help comes along.I just landed on this site today while surfing.And the Net so far has provided me the initial engine basics fitted for car owners. Time to go deeper info into emergency road remedies when getting stalled hence,this posting.

    Again thanks.



2 Answers

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points


    An expert that got 10 achievements.


    An expert that got 5 achievements.


    An expert whose answer got voted for 500 times.

  • Master
  • 834 Answers

The ignition condenser is needed for good coil saturation and is directly related to the voltage output of the coil, the weaker the ignition condenser is, the weaker the spark will be from the coil.

The signs to look for when replacing the ignition points are burnt or pitted contact surfaces at the breakers, and for a worn down rubbing block. (where the points contact the cam lobes inside the distributor)

The only things that you can do to prolong the life of the ignition points is to make sure that the rubbing block on the ignition points and the distributor cam lobes are properly lubricated with die-electric grease, and make sure that the dwell angle is properly set. (you would need a dwell meter to set the ignition points properly)

The only reason that the engine would stall from the ignition points is because either the condenser burned out, or the rubbing block wore down and the ignition points closed up. (The ignition points should open and close to provide a primary signal to the coil, if they do close up, you can get home by using a piece of a match book cover to set the gap for the ignition points, it is approximate enough to work well enough to get you back home if stranded from closed up ignition points)

I hope that this was helpful to you in any way.

Posted on Apr 27, 2010

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points


    An expert that got 20 achievements.


    An expert that got 10 achievements.


    An expert that got 5 achievements.

  • Isuzu Master
  • 6,927 Answers

If there is a lot of miles,wear in the distributor,and the distributor cam,can cause points to wear out quicker,replacement of the distributor will prolong the life of the points and condenser,the condenser is like a cushing for the voltage,to kind of soften the voltage spark of the points.If the condenser is bad it will not allow the points fire at all,and can burn out the ignition coil if it goes bad.Now quality means a lot in selecting the brand of ignition,standard ignition,and echlin ignition are the top of the line in stock automotive parts,standard ignition,is found in a lot of auto parts stores,but echlin are only found at napa auto parts.The cheaper the points and condenser,the less the performance and longtivity.

Posted on Apr 27, 2010


1 Suggested Answer

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi there,
Save hours of searching online or wasting money on unnecessary repairs by talking to a 6YA Expert who can help you resolve this issue over the phone in a minute or two.

Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.

Here's a link to this great service

Good luck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%


Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add



Related Questions:

1 Answer

'68 Plymouth 318 4 brl carb is popping and backfiring. What could be the problem?

Cranking at a slower speed is often a sign of being out of time. That might explain the popping and backfiring, too. You need to use a timing light. Make sure it is set to specs. If it is set at the correct time, and the advance is working (you can check that also with the timing light), and the problem still exists, then I would recommend doing a compression test of the cylinders, to spot any problem with the engine's mechanical condition.

When you put new points on, did you also use a new condenser? You certainly should. And since the points burnt out, how about the spark plugs, do they need changing as well? Part of a tune-up is to make sure the gap on the spark plugs is correct.

If you are inclined to work on your car, buy a vacuum gauge for just a few dollars. These are real handy for the older cars. Here is a link on how useful it can be:
hmm, little difficulty...go to , look at their menu and choose "How to Use and Interpret a Vacuum Gauge". A neat little tutorial on what you can see from a vacuum reading.

Nov 16, 2016 | Plymouth Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

What is contact points

in vehicles of long ago ( before electronic ignition) contact points were used in a distributor to make and break an electrical circuit to induce a high voltage from a coil at the correct timing for the engine
to assist with that creating a high voltage , they were used in conjunction with a condenser

Aug 09, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

New wires,plugs, and distribuator cap in but sounds awful (the rotar can only go in one way right?

The rotor is either "keyed" or screwed onto the advance plate under the distributor cap. Does your truck have points and condenser or a breaker-less inductive pickup? If points/condenser, you may want to replace them (condensers can be fickle little beasts). If inductive pickup, they usually either work or they don't. If distributor has a vacuum advance, make sure the vacuum diaphragm is working as it should; if centrifugal advance check for free movement and lubrication of the advance mechanism. After all that, if you are still having problems, check your coil, coil wire (did you replace it when you changed plug wires?), and timing. BTW, are you getting a check engine light and associated error codes? Good luck.

Sep 29, 2013 | 1995 Dodge Ram 2500

1 Answer

Engine randomly cut out while driving or idiling,,, sometimes starts right back up other times takes a couple minutes... Cause?????

Hi Steven, I would think of replacing the the points (contact breaker) and condenser (capacitor) Theses are inside the distributor and revealed by removing the distributor cap. Remove the holding clips or screws (I don't remember which) and then lift off the cap and rotor arm. remove the cables connecting to the condenser and points. Remove both points and condenser and replace both and reconnect the electrical cables. Turn the engine by hand until the contact breaker is fully opened by one of the cam lobes on the center shaft and then adjust the gap to point four five millimeters. Rotate the engine again by hand until the points close and then with the ignition turned on but not cranking check you have spark by opening the points with a plastic tool. Once the spark is confirmed turn the engine to the timing marks (Please confirm ignition timing but I believe it is 6 degrees before Top Dead Center. Turn the engine so that the timing marks align at that setting and then set the points by loosening off the distributor body and rotating it so that the points are just about to open but are still closed. Tighten everything up and refit the rotor arm and cap and start the engine. For a more accurate setting of the distributor timing use a strobe timing light after initial start up. Always attend to the ignition timing before attempting any carburetor adjustment. Regards John

Apr 23, 2012 | 1984 Ford Mustang

1 Answer

My a4 just lost power as if the turbo isnt kicking in, does anyone no what it could be

The use of contaminated gasoline or gasoline with a low content of deposit control additives may result in one or more of the following conditions:
^ Excessive accumulation of deposits on intake valves, intake manifold, fuel injectors and combustion chambers. ^ Engine runs rough after cold start. ^ Excessive engine cranking time. ^ Hesitations while driving. ^ Rough engine idle. ^ Reduced engine performance. ^ Poor fuel economy. Conditions may be severe enough to illuminate the MIL in conjunction with storage in the ECM data memory of DTCs for misfire (example: P0300, P030x) and / or lean fuel system (example: P0171, P0174, P1128, P1130, P1136, P1138).
Technical Background
^ Condition may be caused by use of contaminated gasoline. ^ Condition may be caused by use of gasoline with a low content of deposit control additives. Production Solution
Not applicable.
If use of contaminated gasoline is suspected:
Consider advising the customer to change gasoline source (brand/gas station). Contaminated gasoline may exhibit one or more of the following characteristics:
^ May have unique color and odor. ^ May contain undissolved water. ^ May contain sediments and suspended matter. ^ May appear cloudy and (after settling) may show signs of separation. Repair:
Gasoline additive G 001 700 03 or G 001770 A2 can be used for removal of existing carbon deposits from:
^ MPI engine ^ Injectors. ^ Combustion chambers. ^ Intake valves. ^ FSI engine ^ Injectors. ^ Combustion chambers. Tip: For removal of carbon deposits from intake valves of FSI engines, refer to TSB 2019948.
Mix the additive with gasoline directly in the full fuel tank following the mix ratio. For example, 60 ml per 30 liters gasoline, 150 ml per 20 gallons of gasoline.

Dec 05, 2010 | 2001 Audi A4

1 Answer

Engine runs rough

Rough engine running is an indication of many things, which could be one or more of the following:
  • fouled fuel
  • dirty fuel line/filters
  • dirty or NO engine oil
  • dirty intake manifold/throttle body
  • faulty spark plugs [for petrol/gasoline]
  • incorrect engine timing
  • faulty ECU [for EFI engines]
  • faulty idle-up controller [rough idling with a/c engaged]
This is a broad answer to your engine symptom, but it is always best to have this checked by a qualified engine mechanic.
Hope this helps.

May 21, 2010 | 2000 Nissan Maxima

1 Answer

Brought 58 chevy with a 400 in it.would not run well-very hard to start and very rough idle.changed coil,points condenser and replaced both wires to the coil.Now starts(but not always)and idles ok but...

you did not indicate whether you replaced the spark plugs. I would pull all the plugs and check their condition (obviously replacing them if necessary). while they are out, do a proper compression check. if all of that checks out ok, and it still is not running properly, then check your timing marks to be sure the timing chain hasn't jumped a tooth. if that's ok then i would take a look at the carb.

Aug 14, 2009 | Chevrolet Chevy Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Gas odor when at stops sign or parking in garage

I recently had the same problem. It turned out that the fuel regulator on the engine at the left side just above the intake manifold had an intermitent leak. The gas leaking was not always visible so I had the regulator changed and that solved the problem.

Jan 15, 2009 | 2004 Buick Century

3 Answers

Strong gasoline smell when cold and wet weather.

the first thing to do is look under the car at the plastic canister the vaper recovery system it is in the rear some times it is coverd by a sheild the vacuume hoses are bad if you smell gas and that will turn the light on it works off a pressure senser on the tank check all the hoses

Dec 07, 2008 | 2001 Kia Sportage

1 Answer

The starter is turning, but the engine doesn't fire

Try to check the condenser of your ignition coil.
Also try to check the following:
- Contact point gap, adjust if necessary.
- Clean your carburetor
- Check the Fuel pump and Fuel filter
- also check the Ignition Coil if its working normally replace if possible.

Nov 23, 2008 | Renault Le Car Cars & Trucks

Not finding what you are looking for?
Cars & Trucks Logo

Related Topics:

249 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Isuzu Experts


Level 3 Expert

80407 Answers

Colin Stickland
Colin Stickland

Level 3 Expert

22326 Answers

Thomas Perkins
Thomas Perkins

Level 3 Expert

14417 Answers

Are you an Isuzu Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides