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1981 empress rv, master cylinder replaced last year, not driven very much, sat over the winter. Tried to drive it but brakes stuck. Will roll forward when rv not running.Any easy fixes or will I have to get it towed? Thanks

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  • Mike Butler
    Mike Butler Jun 06, 2010

    You may also have a driveshaft break seized. Are you familiar with that set-up at all?

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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geharbison
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SOURCE: 89 f150 4x4 right rear locked up

On older vehicles with drums brakes in the rear, the brake shoes on the inside are used for the emergency brake. However, the emergency brake only uses one pad per wheel instead of both, which is why the emergency brake does not work as well at keeping the vehicle from rolling backwards. You should check to see if the emergency brake is locked up. If that doesn't work, take the driveshaft off and try tow it forwards. If it rolls, then your transmission is not functioning properly.

Posted on Jun 10, 2009

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SOURCE: Have a 1999 dodge durango 5.2 liter v8 sat for 8

You could try bleeding them yes.. There should be a bleeder located on each caliper. Should have a little nut sticking up off the caliper. Remove that bleeder will be under it. If that does not work it may be the master cylinder itself. Just had same problem on ford van that turned out to be master cylinder. Hope that helps..

Posted on Jul 04, 2009

  • 432 Answers

SOURCE: New master cylinder and booster. Brakes stop good

Well if you have bled it correctly starting at the farthest out(PS Side Rear) and working to the closest(DR Side Front) and you make sure to close the bleeder valve before letting up and repumping the peddel,then I would say that the seals in your new master cylinder may be bad.When you bled the second or third time if there was no air then I would say you have a bad master cylinder.If there was air then you have another problem.Well hope this helps and good luck.

Posted on Mar 14, 2010

Sean80000
  • 1867 Answers

SOURCE: Vehicle is a resto-mod 1970

BJ

I doubt the problem is the calipers as I would not expect them both to be faulty.

I do not think it is the proportioning valve.

From the symptoms you have described it sounds very much like the master cylinder is faulty. If the car is a resto mod with upgraded brakes I assume the original master cylinder has been replaced with some late model unit, either new or used.

I could not comment further without inspecting and testing the car. Some resto mods are carried out by amateur car enthusiast (as you know) rather than professionals and amateurs frequently undertake brake modifications that should be left to the experts.

I would be taking the car to a competent brake specialist to check it out. especially as the braking system has been modified with an aftermarket kit. This is not a DIY task and I would advise you not to try fiddling with the braking system in an attempt to fix this problem yourself.

Sean

Posted on Nov 30, 2010

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2 Answers

Can break master cylinder (kit) do as good job as a new master cylinder?


This is a Yes, and No reply.

YES,
if the mechanic insures that the bore of the brake master cylinder, is free of rust pits, and if not, uses a brake hone to smooth out the bore. Closer inspection will reveal if the pits are too deep, and the master cylinder is unusable.

YES,
if the rubber components that go into the bore of the brake master cylinder, are installed in the correct direction, all the components are assembled in the correct order, and are pre-lubed with a little bit of clean brake fluid, before installing.

NO,
if any of the above criteria is not met.

The main thing is that the Brake Master Cylinder is in good repair. In good shape. If we are discussing the original brake master cylinder, for a 1981 Ford F100 pickup truck, we are discussing a master cylinder that is 28 years old, and has seen a lot of wear.

As a metallic object, such as a brake master cylinder heats up, (Engine heat, or even just the sun shining on the vehicle), then cools down, the moisture that is always present in the air, will form in the master cylinder.

Forms in droplets, at the bottom of the master cylinder's reservoir. This moisture creates rust, when it touches the cast iron brake master cylinder casting.
The rust clogs the ports at the bottom of the reservoir, and goes down into the bore of the master cylinder.

Makes rust pits in the bore, and harms other master cylinder components, then goes into the brake lines, and onto the rest of the brake system.

Me?
For the cost of a rebuilt or new brake master cylinder, compared to the expense of the master cylinder brake kit, and your labor time, I would go with a rebuilt, or new one.

Also this is part of the Brake System, and there's no fooling around with brakes! Your life and/or someone else, Depends on those brakes!

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89 f150 4x4 right rear locked up


On older vehicles with drums brakes in the rear, the brake shoes on the inside are used for the emergency brake. However, the emergency brake only uses one pad per wheel instead of both, which is why the emergency brake does not work as well at keeping the vehicle from rolling backwards. You should check to see if the emergency brake is locked up. If that doesn't work, take the driveshaft off and try tow it forwards. If it rolls, then your transmission is not functioning properly.

Jun 10, 2009 | 1999 Ford F150 Regular Cab

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