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some EFI engines have a sensor that reports to the ECM on crank case pressure or vacuum
when the cap is removed that ECM shuts the engine down
Ford at one stage had such a problem and if the crankshaft seal ( front or rear ) was leaking , the running engine was erratic if it would start
there could be a problem in the assembly of the manifold or what was worked on so run the fault codes or have an accredited service shop with experience on your vehicle diagnose the problem and quote
well let me see you have 4.6L engine you need 7.5 quarts of oil with new oil filter.to do the oil change you need large drain pan and oil filter wrench and a metric wrench to remove oil drain plug you need a funnel also.you need first start engine let it run for 5 minutes to warm up thin out the oil so it will flow better.once engine warm up.turn off the engine.open you hood.now safely raise support vechicle on jack stands make sure vechicle parked on solid level ground.place large drain pan under oil pan remove oil drain plug you need a 15m wrench remove drain plug let all old oil drain out until you see slow drip then reinstall oil drain plug dont over tighten drain bolt.then place drain pan under the oil filter then remove oil filter using oil filter wrench or large channel lock pliers.once you remove oil filter wipe oil filter seal surface with clean paper towel.take new oil filter add oil to new filter then install new oil filter hand tight take filter wrench turn oil filter one half more turn dont over tighten will damage oil filter seal.make sure oil pan drain plug is in place. then lower vechicle. remove oil filler cap on the valve cover add new oil to the engine using a funnel to keep from spilling oil all over the valve cover and exhaust manifold.add all 7.5 quarts to oil crank case wait until oil settle down in crank case check oil dip stick oil level should be at the full mark on oil dip stick.dont over fill crank case.once you finished oil level correct crank engine check for oil leaks at oil filter and oil drain plug. if engine running okay you see no oil warning lights you ready wheel and deal.
try spraying some carb cleaner into a vaccum hose and see if it will run. If so then you have ignition but no fuel delivery. If not then you have an ignition problem. make sure you hear the fuel pump hum when you turn the key to the run position. It should run for +/- 5 seconds then shut off. remove gas cap and listen for fuel pump operation through the fill hole. If you can hear the pump then you have a fuel injection issue. If the engine starts and runs for a few seconds then shuts off then you can suspect the crank or cam position sensor. The fuel pump runs through the oil pressure switch which could also be an issue.
Are you able to start the truck with application of the gas pedal?
Possibly piston rings. get a compression test or if it has a crank handle, crank it by hand to see if there are four compressions there. You should be able to feel the difference between the cylinders.
FIRST OF ALL YOU NEED 4.0 QUARTS OF OIL FOR 2.2L 2.3L AND 2.4L OHC ENGINES AND THE 2.2L OHC USES 5.0 QUARTS WITH NEW OIL FILTER.TO GET START YOU NEED A FILTER WRENCH,DRAIN PAN, RUBBER GLOVES WHICH PROTECT HANDS FROM OIL. OILWILL CAUSE CANCER , IF STAYS ON SKIN TOO LONG.YOU NEED TO CRANK ENGINE UP LET IT IDLE 5 MINUTES TO THIN OUT MOTOR OIL SO IT CAN FLOW FASTER.WHEN 5 MINUTES UP.TURN OFF ENGINE.SAFELY RAISE SUPPORT VECHICLE ON JACK STANDS ON SOLID LEVEL GROUND.SLIDE DRAIN PAN UNDER THE CAR OIL PAN. PUT ON RUBBER GLOVES THEN REMOVE OIL PAN DRAIN PLUG ON BOTTOM OF OIL PAN USING A 15 METRIC SOCKET WITH RATCHET WRENCH.WHEN ALL OIL DRIPS.SCREW IN TIGHTEN OIL PAN DRAIN PLUG BACK IN OIL PAN REMOVE OIL FILTER ITS NEXT TO OIL PAN USE SOCKET TYPE OIL FILTER WRENCH IF OIL FILTER IS DOWNWARD POSITION. IF OIL FILTER ON THE SIDE YOU NEED THE BAND TYPE OIL FILTER WRENCH. ****** NOTE THIS THE 2.2L OHC ENGINE USES A OIL FILTER ELEMENT THAT HOUSED INSIDE A RECEPTACLE LOCATED AT THE LEFT FRONT CORNER OF THE ENGINE.YOU UNSCREW THE OIL FILTER CAP THEN LIFT THE CAP AND OIL FILTER FROM THE FILTER RECEPTACLE IN THE ENGINE.SEPERATE THE OIL FILTER ELEMENT FROM THE CAP USING A CLEAN RAG REMOVE OIL DIRT AND SLUDGE FROM THE OIL FILTER CAP AND FROM THE RIM AROUND THE OIL FILTER RECEPTACLES.INSTALL A NEW O RING INTO THE GROOVE IN THE CAP.THEN INSTALL THE NEW FILTER ELEMENT IN THE CAP AND INSERT BOTH INTO THE FILTER RECEPTACLE.SCREW DOWN THE CAP AND TIGHTEN IT SECURELY. WHEN ALL IS DONE POUR NEW OIL IN CRANK CASE.MAKE SURE OIL LEVEL ON DIP STICK ON THE FULL MARK YOU CRANK THE ENGINE.MAKE SURE OIL DRAIN PLUG SCREWED BACK IN OIL PAN.WHEN INSTALLING OIL FILTER FILL IT HALF WAY WITH NEW ENGINE OIL,RUB OIL ON FILTER SEAL TO HELP IT SEAL TO ENGINE.BESURE WIPE OIL FILTER SEAL SURFACE ON ENGINE TO MAKE SURE IT CLEAN. WHEN ALL IS DONE CRANK ENGINE UP CHECK FOR OIL LEAKS.IF ALL IS GOOD LOWER CAR BACK TO GROUND,YOU DONE.
Only way that can happen is if the crank case vent is blocked or, if you have a broken or excessively worn ring on one of the pistons. (you will find oil on the corresponding spark plug electrode in most cases) After cleaning up the vent, remove the oil fill cap while the engine is running. You should have little or no pressure there if you put your hand over the opening, and definitely no smoke coming out of there.
You will need to change the oil filter housing and the hose that attaches to it, the amount of vacum going thru this box has changed causing an excess in the crank case. do not drive for you may cause damage to cam and crank seals
Have you had a diagnostic scan ran? It sounds like you may be having a problem with the MAF sensor. The MAF regulates the amount of air taken into the car. The sensor responds to the engine temperature.
did you check the pulley on the crank shaft ??
is it warped ?? ( bent )
because i do not think that the truck will run with the crankshaft moving.....back and forth.
so in any case you have a lot of work to do.
here is how to remove the crank shaft. REMOVAL
Identify bearing caps before removal. Remove bearing caps and bearings one at a time.
Lift the crankshaft out of the block.
Remove and discard the crankshaft rear oil seals.
Remove and discard the front crankshaft oil seal.
Lightly oil the new upper seal lips with engine oil.
Install the new upper rear bearing oil seal with the white paint facing towards the rear of the engine.
Position the crankshaft into the cylinder block.
Lightly oil the new lower seal lips with engine oil.
Install the new lower rear bearing oil seal into the bearing cap with the white paint facing towards the rear of the engine.
Apply 5 mm (0.20 inch) drop of Loctite 518, or equivalent, on each side of the rear main bearing cap. DO NOT over apply sealant or allow the sealant to contact the rubber seal. Assemble bearing cap to cylinder block immediately after sealant application.
lb align the bearing cap, use cap slot, alignment dowel and cap bolts. DO NOT remove excess material after assembly. DO NOT strike rear cap more than 2 times for proper engagement.
Clean and oil all cap bolts. Install all main bearing caps. Install all cap bolts and alternately tighten to 115 Nm (85 ft. lbs.) torque.
Apply Mopar Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant, or equivalent, at bearing cap to block joint to provide cap to block and oil pan sealing. Apply enough sealant until a small amount is squeezed out. Withdraw nozzle and wipe excess sealant off the oil pan seal groove.
Install new front crankshaft oil seal.
Immediately install the oil Dan.
if you have an email address i can send some images