My front wheel wobbles and makes the steering wheel **** sometime
My front drivers side wheel and or brake rotor have play in it. so if i jack it up it moves in a way that it shouldnt. if i am driving the wheel will move sometimes and mess around with the alignment. it will **** around sometimes, but not to the other side of the road. what makes it do this and how do you fix it?
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This is not good. Can be several things. First, check for a bent rim or bad tire belt by jacking up one tire at a time and inspecting how the treads track. This means putting a screwdriver at a fixed position near the tread or wheel rim seat and spinning the tire by hand. The spinning tire should not rub on the screwdriver any differently as the tire turns.
Should you detect wobble, hang the spare on the hub and see if the spare acts the same way, repeating the screwdriver test. You are doing this to test the hub bearings now.
Brake rotors can grab if they are warped. Sometimes rust will build up after a rain and cause the brakes to grab without you applying them. Spinning the wheels after they are jacked-up will help assess lumpy rotors.
Tie-rod ends can create wandering and steering shake. Check the tie rod ends for both inner and outer ends.
Hi there, provided your tyres have been fitted correctly, like others have said there are a few reasons why you can experience what we call a shudder through the steering under braking and what normally feels worse when braking from 100kph/60mph rather then from 50kph/30mph, if you do have warped front discs/rotors they will need to be checked but a common cause for steering shudder also along side warped brake discs are the control arm bushes which is item #7 in the pic supplied and they fit into item #6, these can be seen quite easily with the front of the vehicle jacked up it is the lower control arm seen going from the bottom of the front wheel suspension assembly to forward of the front wheel to cross member/ sub frame, with the vehicle jacked you can see the rubber inside the bush itself to see whether it's cracked, be sure that when they are being replaced as is with all suspension bushes the vehicle must be rested back on its wheels before tightening the bolt item #8 as this is the normal working position of the bush and not in the jacked up position.
Jack it up at each wheel, spin the wheel, watch it to see if it is out of round, if there might be a bubble in the tire anywhere, (cords break inside the tire), or if the rim is bent. Use chalk as it spins to locate slight flaws. Compare wheel to tire while spinning. Check to see if the wheel is loose either at the hub, axle or lug nuts. Make sure your A frame or tie rods are not coming loose. Use pry bars to see if everything is tight. If your wobble is only when braking it is probably a un-evenly worn brake rotor. Always chock (block) your wheels and apply emergency brake while jacking up a car. Take your time and be safe. Do not get distracted if you are running a jacked up car. Apply brake before moving shifter back to park to stop spinning wheel.
it could be the shocks but due to wheel wobble i would say its more to do with worn bushings on the suspension arms etc.... best way to check is to jack up each front corner of the car at a time and shake the wheel see if it has movement side to side or front to rear if so i would reccomend getting it looked at or replacing the bushings :) hoep this helps
You didn't list year / make / model or if it is front or rear, so here is some general help:
Sounds like either your emergency brake is on if it's the rear, or the caliper or wheel cylinder is frozen, either way what you describe is usually caused my the brake pads / shoes rubbing on the rotor / drum as if you are riding the brakes.
It could also be a very bad wheel bearing, simple way to check this is jack un the car and see if you can wobble the wheel.
The most common cause of brake pulse is wheel bearings, because the rotor wobbles.
The way to tell is that you will also feel it through the steering wheel, when not applying brakes.
If the rotor wobbles, it will also make the brakes spongey, because the wobble will cause some piston retraction, causing a longer throw when applying.
It is usually the fronts that go bad before the back. And one side before the other, often because a bad seal allowed water in. But you can tell by jacking up and feeling for play.
If not a wheel bearing, then I would consider ABS problem, or the rotor was installed wrong.
on a clear road try gently applying the E brake, see if that produces the feeling, I would say either a rotor is warped (wobbled from side to side due to heat disatortion) or a drum. It is not easy to see these faults, with a wheel off you need to turn the rotor and look for the wobble, it only takes a wobble of 1/16 or 2mm to make the brake pedal pulse. This is a large safety issue as your brakes will be impaired.
Have someone start the truck (keep it in park and put the emergency brake on) and have them turn the wheels back and forth from stop to stop repeatedly while you lay under the front end paying strick attention to all of the steering and control components. I had a vertical hopping of the tires going on. I replaced the outer tie-rod ends and upper and lower ball joints. I also replaced my worn mud tires and changed the steering stabilizer/damper out for a rancho 5000 series stabilizer (heavier duty for off-roading). The vertical hop went away. Now I have a side to side wobble. I can recover from it by hitting the brakes, but what works faster for me is jerking the steering wheel side to side a couple of times (from 10 o'clock to 2 o'clock). Never-the-less, it's a serious problem. So, by checking your front end the way I did, you may find the culprit. Don't jack up the front end. Leave it on the ground so the truck's weight affects the system normally. In observing the system while turning the wheel, we found that the front axle was moving side-to-side which drew my attention to the control arm. My control arm bushing (where the control arm joins to the front axle) is heavily worn and moving side to side (around the mounting bolt) approximately 3/4" each direction. Therefore, it's allowing the front axle to shimmy laterally when I hit a bump. I just ordered the new bushing kit from O'Reilly's Auto Parts for $16.00 and it will be here on Tuesday. I'm hoping this will fix my front end as I have already spent $700.00 (and that's doing all of the work myself). It's getting to be an expensive problem. Please let me know if this makes sense to you guys. Seems like a good way to check for worn parts.