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How to connect Delco Remy 1100578 alternator?

How to connect Delco Remy anternator 1100578. Which terminal of the internal voltage regulator ''R'' or ''F'' connects to battery terminal on alternator and where does other voltage regulator terminal connect?

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SOURCE: Gauge shows low voltage, engine will die in about 15 minutes

you may have a dead short somewhere in the charging lines or elts where in the car try using a fluke if you have one or find a friend that can read it and start hunting...... have you checked the OBD2 for falt codes

Posted on Apr 12, 2009

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SOURCE: Chevy G20 1985 wiring (charging problem)

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SOURCE: how do you check to see if an alternator is

When the vehicle is off and not running, the battery voltage should be 12.0 or higher. Ideally 12.7 @ 70 degrees F. While the vehicle is running, your voltage at the battery should read between 13.2 and 15.5 volts, this will tell you the alternator is suppling voltage to the battery for recharge, but the alternator will NEVER, EVER charge a full dead battery.

Posted on Mar 21, 2010

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SOURCE: how to jump terminals to test external voltage regulator

Jump terminals A to F and the alternator should full field and charge. If it charges then replace the regulator. if it doesn't charge replace the alternator. I remember the terminals by thinking of the word AIR FORCE .

Posted on Apr 03, 2010

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2 Answers

Where is the voltege regulator in a 1994 f350 7.3

Jorge, You probably have an alternator on that truck,which means the regulator is built into it. Check the attached links,instruction and guides, Good luck

"I hope this helped you out, if so let me know by pressing the helpful button. Check out some of my other posts if you need more tips and info."

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1986 Chevy nova. I've just replaced the battery,alternator, and starter. The issue I'm having is that the car will not charge. I've checked the fuses and they are good. I've checked grounds and battery...

I have no experience of your car but starting and charging circuits are fairly universal.

For a lot of years the charging system of the majority of cars and trucks only comprised an alternator connected by a single wire to the battery live and an "earthy" terminal to connect the ignition, battery or charge light wire. The alternator had to be grounded and some manufacturers mounted them in rubber bushes so a good earth or ground lead had to be bolted to the alternator casing.

There have been some slight variations. Some alternators were "battery sensed" rather than "machine sensed" and needed an extra wire to provide voltage to the internal regulator and the Japanese used electro-mechanical regulation for a long time after the rest of the world adopted internal electronic regulation. These modern times have brought more charging developments with the addition of intelligence, black boxes and the like.
A few of the older machines (AC Delco, Lucas) had an extra large spade terminal at the rear which needed to be grounded. These machines caused some confusion as to a casual inspection they appeared identical to other machines where the terminal was live and should not be grounded.

If your alternator has the required ground and live and the ignition light is working and the wire connected and any other sensing wire is connected and providing the required voltage the charging system cannot fail to work if the alternator itself is good.

I suggest you sort out your brake lights which is probably a faulty or maladjusted switch or misplaced or shorted wire, most likely in the region of the switch.
If it is the switch, disconnecting it should kill the lights.
After that it will be time to double check the connections to the alternator and verify each wire has the correct potential.

Mar 01, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

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How do I replace the generator on a 75 vw bus with a delco remy alternator, and how do I wire the alternator

Go online to a VW bus forum site. There's bound to be a sketch or so available from someone who's already done that.

Oct 20, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Location voltage regulator

The 1968 Grand Prix has an internally regulated alternator, even tho it has an externally regulated plug. Like this, l l, not this -- --. 1968 was the first year for the 10 DN ( delcotron ) internally regulated alternator. Info straight from delco-remy tech support. ( 1 800 372 0222 )

Jan 07, 2014 | Ford F-250 Cars & Trucks

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There is a ground some were that is causeing the battery not to charge put new selinoid ,new battery,alternater,new key lock cylender check wirers fuses relay switches and battery still wont charge

It sounds like you have done a whole lot of replacing and not much "diagnosing". Did you chech for battery voltage at the alternator? There should be battey voltage at the large Black/Orange wire that is on the B+ terminal of the alternator. This wire should have voltage all the time. If there is no battery voltage, you most likely have a burned fusible link at the starter relay area.
There should also be voltage at the "S" terminal with the ignition on. If there is no voltage, then check for voltage at the "S" terminal of the voltage regulator. If there is no voltage at the "S" terminal on the voltage regulator then check the "I" terminal on the regulator for voltage.

NOTE: The voltage on the "S" terminal should be 1/2 that of the voltage on the "I" terminal.

If there is voltage on the "I" terminal, make sure your voltage regulator is grounded properly to the fender and retest to see if it is charging the battery. If it is still not charging, disconnect the regulator connector and connect a jumper between the "A" and "F" terminals of the connector. Start the engine. The alternator should now be charging the battery at high voltage (usually over 15 volts) If it does, replace your voltage regulator. If it does not, then you need to check your wiring between the voltage regulator and the alternator.

Please also review this article:

What Else Could Be Wrong?

Jun 15, 2011 | 1987 Ford F 150

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I own a 1954 Pontiac that currently has the original generator and 3 contact external regulator. I want to convert to an alternator. I need an old school expert to explain how to wire up the anternator.

We usd to rebuild alternators and we would build some of the old style 10SI Delcos with a self-exciting regulator just for this type situation. All you have to do is connect the battery wire to the stud on the alternator and you were good to go. If you can't find anything local Google "1 wire delco alternator" and you'll come up with all kinds of places to buy them. If you want a regular 3 wire they are easy to wire also. You'll need to buy a regulator plug. The regulator terminals are labeled #1 and #2. #1 is wire to a switched ignition source and #2 can be connected to the battery stud on the alternator along with the battery wire.

Apr 17, 2011 | Pontiac Catalina Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Alt plug labled P L F S what do each of these wires go to

found this at
(and yes, the Cavalier does use the CS130D alternator)

P-Terminal: Provides a 12Vdc square wave as in the CS-130 application. [The Pulse/Phase terminal can provide a 12V square wave to determine alternator speed, used by some Electronic Control Modules or vehicle computers. Connects to the stator. Some ICU’s monitor this signal and adjust engine parameters accordingly.]

F/I-Terminal: It gets a bit tricky here, as some applications do not incorporate a lamp circuit. In vehicle applications of the “no lamp” kind, this terminal is connected to the Ignition Switch, and an internal resistor is used to limit current and voltage. Other regulators use this terminal as an output and refer to this pin as a Field Terminal, as such, it provides an output that is proportional to the field duty cycle of the alternator to an a vehicles ECM. The ECM now has an input to sense alternator loading and engine loading, and can increase/decrease engine speed accordingly. Here is an important consideration, since the regulators on CS-130D type alternators have these two different types of regulators (F-Type or I-Type) they cannot be interchanged. I-Type regulators use the F/I-Terminal as an input and this can simply be an ignition source 12Vdc voltage that the alternator uses; F-Type regulators use the F/I-Terminal as an output (this ion is a signal that is provided to the vehicle computer and the computer uses it to monitor the field intensity of the alternator as an input. If you supply a 12Vdc signal to this input, you may very well ruin the alternators regulator.

L-Terminal: This is the lamp terminal and operates in the same manner as the CS-130 lamp circuit above. It is of interest to note that some applications use the ECM to send the L-Terminal a signal (5Vdc reference), and the F-Terminal responds with a signal sent to the ECM, in this application the ECM and the Regulator form a “closed loop” to control engine loading and alternator output.

S-Terminal: This is the “Sense” terminal and is connected to the battery. It senses the voltage level of the battery and feeds the regulator circuit this reference so that the regulator can adjust the Pulse Width Modulation to control the alternators output. The S-terminal on the CS-130D regulator is the same size as the other three terminals, unlike that of the CS-130.

Feb 15, 2010 | 2001 Chevrolet Cavalier

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Chevy G20 1985 wiring (charging problem)

Jul 07, 2009 | 1985 Chevrolet Sportvan G20

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I have a 3 wire alternator i need to wire

Assuming you have an external voltage regulator:-

The largest stud/nut terminal is B+,
this is the charge current output, it connects to battery positive (uses heavy high current capacity cable),

the other terminals are normally spade terminals :-
DF exciter winding control, (controlled by ext voltage regulator);

IND (or D+) - via dashboard 'BAT' indicator light, then to +12V when Ignition switch is 'ON' (alternator excitation current source).

If you have an alternator with an integral internal voltage regulator,
only B+ (sometimes with an additional B+ terminal)
and IND (or D+) terminals are present.

Jun 21, 2009 | 1985 Chevrolet Sportvan G10

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