1987 chevy truck the ignition module keeps burning out what could be causeing this.

Partial wiring diagrams are usually available, but if you want a full wiring schematic, you need a workshop manual or a subscription to a website.

https://www.justanswer.com/chevy/2iqt1-color-code-ignition-module-1988-chev-s10.html

https://www.google.com/search?q=1987+Chevy+S10+2.8+spark+module+color+code+wiring+diagram

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https://books.google.com/books?id=rUmRmpaOyLIC&pg=PA162&lpg=PA162&dq=87+chevy+454+crankshaft+position+sensor+location&source=bl&ots=bGi2T6mTsZ&sig=ACfU3U337cRsZ77uqDcRbxycw8RdrMxrSQ&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwij182Ar9D0AhUZjYkEHUmYAD0Q6AF6BAgvEAM#v=onepage&q=87%20chevy%20454%20crankshaft%20position%20sensor%20location&f=false

did you get a module for a 12 vlt 350
the module is not enuf

Check for vacuum leaks and for spark. The most common problem Ive seen is the ignition control module. Those are notorious on the older chevys. It is located on the bottom of the distributor.

The ignition module located inside of the distributor is what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal timing to fire the ignition coil. A faulty ignition module can cause any one of these systems to malfunction.

That does sound like a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.

To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.

It would seem like a problem with the ECU or the fuel pump, but the common link between those two systems is the ignition module that is located on the distributor under the distributor cap, and that module is actually responsible for the fuel pump signal to run the fuel pump, the dwell signal to cause the ignition coil to fire, and also the signal that the ECU uses to time and fire the injectors, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto parts stores.

That does sound like a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.

To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.

the green should be the n

Crank position sensor would be my guess.
Its located the center, rear engine area, mounted in the block below the ignition coil pack and DIS module.My guess is that's your culprit.

what about replacing the plug wires and cap and rotor