Engine RPMs go down slowly when clutching/shifting manual tranmission -- . Seems to take several seconds to go down to the 1000-1500 range which is much longer than it seems like it should take and longer than in the past. The engine runs smoothly overall. Any ideas??

Manual Transmission

1. 1
   Park your car with its front tyres touching the curb. Engage 1st and start slowly releasing the clutch pedal without applying any throttle. The engine should gradually fade out and bog down when the pedal is completely released. If the engine just bogs down at some point, or the fading is not gradual, the clutch is damaged. If the gearbox grinds when you try to shift in first from a standstill, there's a damage in the clutch too.
   
   
   
   
2. 2
   Try to pull off in 3rd gear with the front wheels at the curb, and without applying throttle. If the engine doesn't die, it shows a complete clutch failure. In that case, do not drive this vehicle.
   
   
3. 3
   Find a smooth, straight road to test the vehicle. Start from first, and slowly accelerate from second. As you do this use late-shifting, i.e. slightly over-rev the engine (approx. 500-1000 RPM faster than the revs you'd normally shift at). Up-shift to second without using double-clutching. Repeat the same procedure when shifting into 3rd. Now, with your car running at approximately 50 km/h (25 mph) try down-shifting to second without double-clutching. Both the up-shifting and the down-shifting must be done without grinding. Grinding of the gears indicates a gearbox malfunction, most likely in the sync gears ("synchronizers"). To make sure it's the synchronizers, try up-shifting and down-shifting with double-clutching. If the grinding stops, then it's the synchronization.
   
   

2
Shift into drive and hold the break pedal after making sure your brakes work. Press the gas pedal all the way down. The engine should not fade. If it does, it means the transmission (particularly the clutch) does not disengage completely.

3
Check for smooth shifting. On an even and relatively horizontal road you should be able to accelerate without any tangible jolts. If there are such, the gearbox has malfunctioned.

4
Check for vibrations. Driving at about 70 km/h (35 mph) switch to Neutral (both auto and manual). There shouldn't be any lateral vibrations. If there are, this is either due to a warping of the drive-shaft, or a suspension damage. Basically, drive-shaft warping is perceived as a vibration in both vertical and horizontal direction, whereas a suspension damage is felt as a vibration in only one direction (i.e. either horizontally or vertically).

5
Test steering. When trying to enter a corner with approximately 30 km/h (15 mph) there shouldn't be any tangible under-steer. The presence of such may be due to a differential failure, especially in FWD cars. Novice drivers must never try and test their differentials by trying to induce under/over-steer!

EditTips for preventing transmission damages

• Avoid prolonged driving by slipping the clutch.
• Avoid jerks and jolts while driving.
• Avoid "riding the clutch", i.e. needlessly keeping your foot on the clutch pedal.
• Never use clutch slipping for regulating the speed of a heavy truck!
• Make sure the clutch of a manual transmission is fully pressed when shifting
• Do not use excessive force when shifting a manual.
• For rear wheel drive (RWD) vehicles, avoid driving through places at the minimum of the vehicle's clearance.
  

EditTips

• Incomplete disengaging is due to the trailing disc sticking to the leading one, e.g. because of mechanical soiling of the friction surfaces or worn out springs.
• Incomplete disengaging in automatic transmissions is felt as a forward jolt when the gearbox changes gears, whereas incomplete engaging is felt as over-revving the engine without any significant change in speed, especially when stepping on the throttle at high speeds (over 50 km/h or 30 mph).
• Automatic transmissions have the so-called "hydraulic clutch". It's basically a combination of a hydraulic pump, driven by the engine, and a hydraulic motor, linked to the rest of the drive-train. This allows for the hydraulic liquid to flow through the motor, even if its load is too big for the engine to rotate it. This eases operation, but results in poorer acceleration, greater fuel consumption and severely decreased ability of the driver to use engine braking, which can be very dangerous on long downward slopes. Hydraulic clutches are easier to operate in urban driving, but become a drawback on long roads
• Gearboxes come in three types: manual, semi-automatic, and automatic
• Malfunctions in a hydraulic clutch include incomplete disengaging (due to old hydraulic fluid, which has become thicker than specified by the manufacturer), or incomplete engaging (most often due to a leak of hydraulic fluid or presence of an air pocket within the hydraulic circuit. These are both dealt with by replacing the hydraulic fluid, bleeding (if necessary) of the hydraulic system, and removing any possible leaks.
• The most common malfunction of a dispatch box is the inability to change its function (e.g. switch between 4x2 and 4x4) If this happens, refer to a repair shop.
• The clutch is designed to smoothly disconnect the engine from the rest of the drive-train.
• The clutch disengaging too low or too high is an indication of a worn out trailing disc.
• There are implements that allow an automatic gearbox to operate in semi-automatic mode, allowing the driver to manually shift gear up or gear down, but w/o using a clutch. These operate exclusively by aids of electronics. This is common in high-class German cars like the S-Klasse Mercedes. Usually the corresponding position of the lever is marked with T or M and the driver selects a gear down by moving the lever to the left, and a gear up by nudging it do the right.
• Semi-automatic gearboxes are combined with a hydraulic clutch. They allow the driver to select a gear up or a gear down. These are most often seen in rally cars, where there are two levers on both sides of the steering wheel. Usually the right one switches a gear up, and the left one switches a gear down.

A classic symptom of a slipping clutch that is almost worn out.
Have you replaced the clutch in the past 12 months ?

You have internal transmission damage I expect the clutches on third and fourth gear are wiped out. Its either that or a solenoid gone bad that holds those clutches pressure get it in a transmission shop soon to avoid whole transmission replacement costs.

EGR valve, or a cracked EGR tube.

your clutch assy,seems the pressure plate is weak letting it slip when first released

sounds like your third and forth clutches are burnt up. one set of clutches powers both gears. transmission will most likely need to be overhauled

The transfer case is stuck in the low range. If manual shift try shifting from low to high several times to see if free up. If electronic, check all fuses and make sure you hear transfer case change range. Do this by shifting with key on engine off. If no change refer to qualified transmission mechanic.

the transmissino is slippin id try to replace autmatic clutch or check fluids

sounds to me that the syncros in the trans are worn out. when driving and shifting try to vary the rpms while trying to shift . try to shift it like a semi truck just have to match the engine rpms to the trans input shaft rpm. this is not a cheap fix rebuilt trans or install new syncros in your trans requires the whole trans to be dissambled.
good luck
paul

hi if its just second to thrid then the clutch is slipping on thrid gear look at the boxes oil level is important but look at the colour is it red and tranperant as this is ok if its brown its a sign of the clutches slipping i would try a stall test on thrid gear first and if its ok second gear [manually] see is the engine stalls at the correct rpm if you thinkabout it imagine you are in thrid gear in a manuual box and suddenly drop into second it would be hard shifting it could also be a faulty thrid gear solenoid yates210456