Question about 1987 Ford F 150

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Engine will not catch, turns over but no fire to plugs. have checked coil, rebuilt distributor checked module ans still no fire to the plugs

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I'd check the fuses and relays. Check for 12V going to the coil, with the ignition on.

Posted on Apr 24, 2010

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I have a 1990 mustang 5.0 with a manual transmission and I just had the engine rebuilt. I am not getting any spark to the distributor and I bought a new coil and module but nothing. I checked the...


Are you getting power to the red and green wire on the module with the key on and power to the red and blue wire on the module when cranking? If yes, I would say you pick-up coil is bad.

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Symptoms of a bad pick up module on a 1996 GMC K2500 Suburban


What I see the most often is a stalled engine with a loss of spark when driving. Once the engine cools off it will sometimes start and run fine for a short while then do the same thing again. Often, but not always, the pickup up coil or ignition module [both are under the distributor cap] have to heat up quite a bit before they will act up. I replace about 10 ignition modules for every one pickup coil but either one can cause the same identical stalling problem. I keep a few known good modules around as test units so I can just replace a suspected bad module and road test it to see if it works. Another thing that can go wrong in these distributors are the magnets built into the pole piece. A weak or cracked magnet can cause all kinds of odd problems such as stalling when placed in reverse, misfires over 1,000 rpm, etc. Worn bushings in the distributor can also cause problems. As far as a specific test you can do to see which part is failing? I wish there was a relaible one. I've tried using a lab scope and module testers to diganose the culprit but you have to catch the problem as it's happening for those tests to be accurate.

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No spark at plugs on a 1986 chevy pu with 350 is the coil bad or something else


to test whats wrong you need a test light 12 volt. It's an ice pick like tool with a clear handle and a ware with an alligater clip. hook the clip to ground near the ciol then with the key on the ciols small wires will be hot ( lights the light ) unplug the small wire plug at the coil and one wire will be hot the other cold. the one thats cold connect the test light and reconnect to the coil. crank the engine before cranking with the key on it should be lit cranking it should flash off and on quickly. All of this presoposes that the battery is well charged and cranks the engine good. if it just stays on then you need to verify that the distrubutor is turning, ( cap off look it it with it cranking it should turn if not the timing chain whent out. no flash and the distrbutor turns the crank senser 9 DISTUBUTOR PICKUP OR THE INGTION MODULE failed any of the wires can break too. Most auto parts stores can test the module before you buy a new one. module failure is common well motor no start. the pickup is not as common and if your not a regular mechanic then changing the distrubutor is easier. make sure that you put the new one in the same as the old one or it won't run. turn the engine till the rotor points straight to somewhere (front) pull the old on watching it turn as it comes out so you can turn the new one in at the same place put the cap back on and fire it up. The rebuilt distrubutor will have a new pickup and module. The coil can fail but not like a light switch. if the the ciol has power and the other side flases and theres no spark the coil is bad.

May 21, 2010 | 1986 Chevrolet Chevy

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I have an 89 k3500 454 tbi not getting fire to plugs. have fire to and from coil, aldo has new coil ignition module ingnition switch distributor cap rotor button distibutor and starter. but no fire to...


Check the resistance of the pick-up coil in the distributor. Reading should be between 800 to 1200 ohms. Disconnect the two wire connection at the distributor control module to measure the resistance.
Let me know.
Regards,

Mar 25, 2009 | 1989 Chevrolet K3500

1 Answer

Have a 1989 f250 that will turn over when turning the key but wont fire, we can't any spark from the plugs. we've checked all the fuses and relays and can't figure out why it wont start.


It sounds like the TFI Module may be defective, this is the heart of the ignition system, it is a black or grey module with about 6 wires plugged into it on the side of the distributor (it may also be mounted on a finned heat sink on the inside of the left front fender), In rare cases it is the another ignition componet like the ignition coil or distributor stator, make sure you check the coil wire and the distributor for any signs or of being damaged (dist cap and coil lead need to be replaced), white powder on ther coil or distributor terminals is the give away of damage.

Also perform the following test, check with a 12 volt test light: On the coil primary ( connector at coil) there are two wires, one is red. Make sure you have voltage at this wire with the key on, then probe the other wire, usually green, crank the engine and this circuit should blink. If it doesn't, make sure the distributor turns, if it does then replace the ignition module and the stator inside the distributor.

I recommend you use Motorcraft or Ford parts. The aftermarket modules can be a problem as far as reliability. If the distributor rotor doesn't turn when you crank the engine, then you may have a timing gear problem

Jul 25, 2008 | Ford F-250 Cars & Trucks

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