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If you know someone with a blow torch and some skill you could weld it back on (hopefully the drain plug is still removable). Or, you could weld the old drain hole closed, then install a new toggle drain yourself (I did this on an old Ford F-150 van once). Good luck.
go further out from the radiator to the bolts that hold the arms into the front section of the car. It should also include the bonnet latch There is no need to cut anything to take out a radiator so just look a bit further out for the bolts.
Hi If the front rad suppt is bent real bad you need to drill threw the spot welds youl likewise be refastened with nut and bolts or spot weld in exact location it was on you must clamp and align so everything goes back on perfect sounds like a bodyshop can do some of that work if you have front end bent out a wack
There be a large bolt on the transaxle for filling it. Can't remember if it's a 17mm or larger size to remove bolt. It's on the front side of transaxle, towards radiator. It can be very difficult sometimes to loosen the bolt, but be persistent. When you get it off, fill transaxle till fluid starts to come out of hole. A gear oil pump works good, or a syringe, or your own ingenuity to find a way to fill it. Good luck.
Generally you will need to disconnect the battery ground cable, look near the oil filter and remove wires from the starter. It should be in front of the motor at the bottom in the center extreme front near the radiator but down low in the engine compartment. Remove the bolts holding the starter after wires are disconnected and replace in the same order.
The front fenders are connected to the A pillar above the the top hinge, at the bottom of the rocker panel seam, three bolts pass through the hood hinge support in the middle of the fender, four bolts on the radiator support, three vertical bolts on the top radiator brace, and one bolt at the rear of the wheelhouse to the cab body. Yes, the wheelhouse is spot welded to the fender and must be removed with it. Remove all the bolts listed as well as the bolts retaining the splash shield. The splash shield is a plastic liner connected to both the wheelhouse and the fender. Remove the headlight/cornering lamp assembly. The best way I have found to do this is to loosen the bumper to framebrackets and let the bumper assembly sag to gain clearance. If the upper bumper cover is removed to gain the clearance needed you will more than likely need to get a new cover as the nylon clips have a tendency to break during removal. Once the fender/wheelhouse assembly has been removed use a spot weld cutter to separate the wheelhouse from the old fender. Check the new fender for clearance and fit on the vehicle. Make all the needed adjustments to get the fender to fit correctly. Remove the fender and attach the wheelhouse. This should be done by spot welding. It can also be done using bolts. If using bolts place some 3M double stick weather strip adhesive tape in the seam to prevent direct contact of the parts to prevent rattles and squeaks. Drill the new fender to match the holes made by the spot weld cutter in the wheelhouse. Use stainless bolts and lock nuts so that the assembly can be services if needed. I would also recommend using Wurth Rust Inhibitor on all the seams to prevent rust and once cured it is an excellent adhesive and will reduce noise coming from moving body panels. Good Luck. It is not as bad as it sounds. Take your time and it will be worth the effort.
there are a few things you wana be carefull of there should be 2 trans cooling lines along with the 2 anti freeze lines that need to be disconnected along with that it should be 2 or 4 bolts that need removing and you might have to remove the fan cover other that that make sure that when you take out the old one lift it strait up and do the same to put in the new one but go strait down
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