Question about 1999 Chevrolet Silverado 1500
2002 gmc truck have abs light on and also a brake warning light on. also have a soft brake pedel. have replaced master cyc.and power bleed the rakes. still have same problem. any help would be appreiciated. jim
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I have had this same problem on two difference vehicles both of which are suburbans.
The solution is simple.
Remove the engine cover.
Locate a small ground wire that is bolted to the top rear of the engine block on the passenger side.
Remove the bolt, clean surfaces and replace.
This should solve your problem.
I know it seems too easy but it works.
Posted on Mar 02, 2009
When bleeding brakes after the system has been opened for service (you didn't say if you were doing any work on the master cylinder) you should start with the farthest wheel away from the master cylinder, which is the righ rear. Fill the master cylinder, then have an assitant "pump up" the brake pedal. Tell them to hold it down firmly, then open the bleeder on the wheel cylinder(s). Do not release the brake pedal until you have closed the bleeder valve again. You'll know when the air is out - there won't be any more bubbles. Since this vehicle is 2001, this would be a great opportunity to flush the system. Just make sure you have enough brake fluid (DOT 3 or 4, depending on your vehicle). Good luck!
Posted on Mar 15, 2009
start by bleeding the master cylinder bleed the line closest to the fire wall, then proceed to the right rear wheel, left rear wheel, right front wheel, and then the left front wheel.
Posted on Sep 16, 2009
Try having the dealer flush and bleed your system. It is very hard to bleed ABS systems yourself and have safe brakes that still work afterward. Bleeding non-ABS brakes yourself is easy not the same for ABS brakes. Valving, sensors and what-not require a tech and the correct equipment in my opinion. You do it wrong and you could ruin your ABS system. Do that and see if they firm up. I replaced my brake shoes/pads at the same time all new everything in back, drums/springs everything and new rotors up front. then I had the chevy dealer flush, refill and bleed system. Stiffer pedal and brakes work better. Keep in mind the brakes on 99 Tahoes are inaedequate, require new rotors often, heat up and fade/glaze pads regularly. I replace my pads long before they wear down because they glaze up and start fading early. I'll rough em up once maybe, next time, new ones. Every two brake jobs, new rotors for me. Just how it is. They will stiffen a bit and work better but they will never be awesome brakes. Just how it is on 99 and earlier Tahoes. Hope it helps. Very important to bleed correctly though. I'll bleed my 83 Toyota 4x4 myself but not the Tahoe.
Posted on Jan 30, 2010
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