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The oil pump is an essential piece of equipment that keeps your Ford Taurus running. It lubricates the engine by keeping the oil circulating. Without this lubrication, the engine wouldn't run. An oil pump is usually located in the oil pan. If you want to change the oil pump and replace it with a new one, roll up your sleeves and get ready for some dirty work.
Drive your Ford Taurus up onto ramps or lifts so you have room to work as you pull out the oil pump. You could also use a jack, but make sure you brace the front wheels so they don't roll. In addition, set the emergency break firmly into position so the car doesn't roll.
Take the engine out and put it on an engine stand then remove the upper intake manifold. Take off the valve covers then the accessory drive belt.
Remove the power steering pump and the alternator. The water pump is the next component to remove, followed by the A/C compressor and bracket.
Rotate the pulley shaft clockwise to remove the crankshaft pulley. It has left-handed threads.
Pull out the oil pan and the oil pump screen and tube. Take off the front cover and the timing chains and remove the crankshaft timing gears. Finally, remove the oil pump, taking note of the bolts you removed and in which order you remove them.
Insert New Oil Pump
Install the new oil pump and put the bolts back on in the same manner you removed them. Tighten these bolts to 71 to 106 in-lb.
Reinsert the crankshaft timing gears, timing chains and front cover. Put the oil pump screen and tube back on, torquing the bolts to 71 to 106 in-lb, and torque the nut to 15 to 22 ft-lb.
Put the oil pan back in, then the crankshaft pulley. Install the A/C compressor and bracket using new bolts for the A/C. Add the water pump, alternator, power steering pump, the accessory drive belt, valve covers and upper intake manifold.
Replace the engine back into your Ford Taurus and fill the crankcase. Start your engine and look for leaks in the area you were working.
Drain the cooling system.
CAUTION When draining the coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted by the ethelyne glycol antifreeze, and are quite likely to drink any that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantity. Always drain the coolant into a sealable container. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or several years old.
Remove the distributor.
Remove the fan shroud and fan.
Remove the alternator.
Disconnect the air injection pipes.
Remove the fan pulley, hub and bracket.
If so equipped, remove the air conditioning compressor drive belt.
If so equipped, remove the power steering pump drive belt.
Remove the crankshaft pulley and baffle plate.
Remove the upper, then the lower, timing belt covers.
Remove the timing belt.
Unbolt and remove the crankshaft sprocket.
Drain the oil.
CAUTION The EPA warns that prolonged contact with used engine oil may cause a number of skin disorders, including cancer! You should make every effort to minimize your exposure to used engine oil. Protective gloves should be worn when changing the oil. Wash your hands and any other exposed skin areas as soon as possible after exposure to used engine oil. Soap and water, or waterless hand cleaner should be used.
Remove the skid plate.
Place a floor jack under the front of the engine at the crankshaft pulley and take up the weight of the engine. Or use a shop crane to support the engine.
Remove the crossmember.
Remove the cotter pin and nut and, with a puller, disconnect the idler arm from the center link.
Remove the engine mount gusset plates from the sides of the engine.
Remove the bell housing front cover.
Unbolt and remove the oil pan. A flat tipped screwdriver may be used to break the seal between the pan and block.
Remove the oil pick-up tube.
Unbolt and remove the oil pump.
Apply a thin coating of grease to the O-ring and install it in its recess in the pump body.
Apply a thin bead of RTV silicone sealer to the pump mounting surface.
Coat the oil seal lip with clean engine oil and install the pump. Tighten the oil pump mounting bolts.
Clean all the gasket surfaces. Straighten and portion of the pan rim that is bent.
Clean the oil pan, oil pump pickup tube and oil pump screen.
Install the oil pan.
Install the bell housing front cover. Tighten the bolts to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
Install the engine mount gusset plates on the sides of the engine. Tighten the bolts to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm).
Install the idler arm on the center link. Tighten the nut to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm). Install a new cotter pin.
Install the crossmember.
Remove the floor jack or shop crane used to support the engine.
Install the skid plate.
Install the crankshaft sprocket.
Install the timing belt.
Install the upper, then the lower, belt covers.
Install the crankshaft pulley and baffle plate.
Install the power steering pump drive belt.
Install the air conditioning compressor drive belt.
Install the fan pulley, hub and bracket.
Install the air injection pipes.
Install the alternator.
Install the fan shroud and fan.
Install the distributor.
Fill the engine with the proper amount of oil.
Fill the cooling system.
Install the battery ground cable.
Install the drive belts.
its probably the water pump pretty simple to change locate the large smooth pulley on top of the serp belt take out the 4 bolts take off the serp belt remove the smooth pulley the water pump is under the smooth pulley take out the 5 bolts on the water pump and the water pump will come out on the new water pump the gasket will only go on one way make sure you turn it the right way so the holes line up use a little gasket sealer to hold in the right place replace with new pump on the tension pulley there is a 3/8 square hole that you can put a long handled socket or breaker bar in to loosen the tension on the on serp belt so you can streatch the belt back over the pulleys i only wish the thermostat was as easy to change.
THE 3.0 ENGINE YOU HAVE TO REMOVE THE UPPER INTAKE MANIFOLD .REMOVE VALVE COVERS REMOVE ACESSORY DRIVE BELT.REMOVE THE POWER STEERING PUMP.REMOVE ALTERNATOR REMOVE WATER PUMP .REMOVE AC COMPRESSOR AND BRACKET .REMOVE CRANKSHAFT PULLEY REMOVE OIL PAN REMOVE OIL PUMP SCREEN AND THE TUBE REMOVE FRONT COVER REMOVE TIMING CHAINS REMOVE CRANKSHAFT TIMING GEARS REMOVE OIL PUMP.WHEN INSTALLING NEW OIL PUMP AND OIL PUMP SCREEN AND TUBE TORQUE BOTH 89 INCH POUNDS. THE 3.9 ENGINE REMOVE THE CRANKSHAFT PULLEY REMOVE FRONT COVER REMOVE THE PRIMARY TIMING CHAINS REMOVE OIL PUMP MOUNTING BOLTS REMOVE OIL PUMP.INSTALLING NEW OIL PUMP TORQUE BOLTS TO 53 INCH POUNDS. WARNING YOU NEED A REPAIR MANUAL IN ORDER TO RELINE TIMING MARKS ON CAMSHAFTS AND CRANKSHAFT.
No. As both the water pump pump pulley and crankshaft pulley both partially cover the timing belt cover, they have to be removed to get the timing belt cover and the timing belt off. The only bolt you DON'T need to undo (unless you want to change the front crankshaft oil seal), is the centre bolt holding the crankshaft timing belt sprocket on. Only the surrounding 4 or 5 bolts need to be removed so the crankshaft pulley can be removed.
i am working on the same thing on somebody else's car and trust me it is alot of work. you have to remove all the pulleys and accessories, the valve covers, oil pan, and u have to do all this just so u can remove the front engine cover. unlike most cars where the oil pump is located in the oil pan, this is mounted in a weird position and it is rotated by the crankshaft. i am not yet finished but i know once i get the front engine cover off i have to remove the timing chains also. in my opinion it is not worth the time or the money. i hope somebody finds this information useful.
Get a proper manual like Haynes (amazon, parts store, Haynes.com). You should not have to take either main pullel or cam pulley off to change timeing belt, you DO want a new tensioner and and new idler pulley (if there is one). Failure to replace these may result in a later failure that wipes out the blet, and possibly the motor (if it is an interference motor).
If you can change the oil pump from working on the front side of the motor, you are either a magician or a contortionist;!) and I need you to help me work on my car;~) It's pretty rare for an oil pump to go bad before 400K km or 300K miles ... the bloddy things are in a constant bath of oil!