Question about 2003 Ford Taurus
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
It is not necessary to have the dealer do this, think of the cash! Though it does require patience and time. The pin you are supposed to push in goes into a slot when you have it in run position, since you cannot turn it to run you have to make a slot for the pin to go into, with a drill. Be very careful as you only have a 1/4" of play before you break a washer behind the cylinder. Once you have drilled out the key far enough to the pin hole you can take a nail set and tap the pin up, you can tell when the pin clears the housing, then it just takes wiggle, patience and tinkering to get the cylinder to slide out, keep the green washer and the metal slot washer. Metal slot washer goes in first with green plastic washer ontop of that with lock cylinder in last. You can play around with the new lock cylinder and washer before insertion to determin correct direction.
Here are official directions with inoperable lock cylinder. They say drill out retaining pin but it just spun in circles for me - I looked at new cylinder and saw how it worked. retaining pin needs a place to go.
Removal & Installation (Non-Functional)
NOTE:Use this procedure to remove ignition lock cylinder if key is missing or cylinder is frozen.
Disconnect negative battery cable. Disable air bag system. See appropriate AIR BAG RESTRAINT SYSTEMS article in RESTRAINTS. Wait at least one minute for air bag back-up power supply to deplete. Remove steering wheel. See STEERING WHEEL . Using a 1/8" bit, drill out retaining pin located below lock cylinder on housing. DO NOT drill deeper than 1/2".
Using channel lock pliers, twist lock cylinder cap until it separates from lock cylinder. Using a 3/8" drill bit, drill down center of ignition lock key slot about 1 3/4" until lock cylinder breaks loose from its base.
Remove retainer, washer, and lock cylinder gear from housing. Remove metal shavings from lock cylinder bore. Replace housing if damaged. To install, reverse removal procedure. Connect negative battery cable. Check air bag system for proper system operation. See appropriate AIR BAG RESTRAINT SYSTEMS article in RESTRAINTS.
Posted on Jul 12, 2009
Could be booster, chk. vacume from engine to booster, usely when that happends you have lost vacume to the booster, very seldom does the booster go out, I'am not saying they don't, its just seldom they do. Do you hear a hissing sound either from under the hood or under the dash above break peddel? If you do you got a major vacume leak,if you hear it comming from under the dash its the booster, if you just hear it under the hood its in the vacume line from engine to booster.
Posted on Aug 09, 2009
sounds like the brake fluid level sensor maybe stuck . it is in the master cylinder reservoir. if you open the cap you will see a float in there. push on it and tap the side of reservoir and it will float back up. let me know if you have any more question. good luck
Posted on Nov 26, 2009
SOURCE: how do you replace a
Well, in essence you disconnect the brake lines, unbolt the MC and bolt the new one on, but you knew that.
What you need to know is you really must bench bleed the replacement unit, or you may never get it to go. What you need is a little bleed kit from aftermarket parts stores. This has hoses that screw in to the brake line fittings and route back into the reservoir, under the fluid level. Actuate the MC until no more bubbles....bolt the unit on the vehicle, (DO NOT let MC fluid run low, or start all over again), remove one of the bleeder hoses at a time and screw in the brake line.
Usually, you would bleed all of the brakes, next. You need all clean fluid at each wheel. and again: DO NOT let MC fluid run low, or start all over again.
Posted on Nov 13, 2010
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