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First off i would just like to say ......... you poor poor person... if it is the 2wd version yes you will have to remove the engine. If it is 4wd it is a pain in the **** but it can be done i just did it on mine recently. If it is the 4wd version you will need to take out the front differntial housing and remove the motor mounts to raise up the engine with a jack. So you will have to remove the wheels and such to do all of this. You will need a pickle fork and a 36mm axel nut remover socket. After you take out the differential housing you will need to remove the sway bar otherwise the oil pan wont have the clearance to come out. It is a total pain to do. But with patience it can be done. Good luck i hope you get it done.Oh and you will have to take the starter off also which is no biggie~
Oil pan drain plug and drain the engine oil into a suitable container
Remote oil filter pipe adapter
Remote oil filter hose clip bolt on oil pan
Starter wire harness bracket stud
Transmission oil cooler pipes (if equipped)
Access plugs for oil pan rear nuts
Transmission to oil pan bolts
Oil pan nuts and bolts
NOTE: The low oil level sensor is not reusable.
Remove and discard the engine oil level sensor (if applicable)
The oil pan
The oil pan gasket
Discard the oil pan gasket.
Clean all sealing surfaces on the engine and the oil pan.
To Install: Note: Whenever the transmission and the engine oil pan are removed from the engine at the same time install the transmission before the oil pan. This is to allow for the proper oil pan alignment. Failure to achieve the correct oil pan alignment can result in transmission failure.
Apply a 0.197 inch (5 mm) wide and 1.0 inch (25 mm) long bead of adhesive GM P/N 12346141 (Canadian P/N 10953433) or equivalent to both the right and left sides of the engine front cover to engine block junction at the oil pan sealing surfaces.
Apply a 0.197 inch (5 mm) wide and 1.0 inch (25 mm) long bead of adhesive GM P/N 12346141 (Canadian P/N 10953433) or equivalent to both the right and left sides of the crankshaft rear oil seal housing to engine block junction at the oil pan sealing surfaces.
Note: Always install a new oil pan gasket. The oil pan gasket and oil pan must be installed and the fasteners tightened while the adhesive is still wet to the touch.
Install the new oil pan gasket into the groove in the oil pan.
Note: The oil pan alignment must always be flush or forward no more than 0.011 inch (0.3mm) from the rear face of the engine block.
Install or connect the following:
The oil pan onto the engine block
Press the oil pan gasket into the grooves of the engine front cover and crankshaft rear oil seal housing
Slide the oil pan back against a suitable straight edge
The oil pan bolts and nuts, but do not tighten
Measure the pan-to-transmission housing clearance using a feeler gage and a straight edge.
Use a feeler gage to check the clearance between the oil pan-to-transmission housing measurement points
If the clearance exceeds 0.011 inch 0.3mm) at any of the 3 oil pan-to-transmission housing measurement points (A), then repeat the step until the oil pan-to-transmission housing clearance is within the specification
The oil pan must always be forward of the rear face of the engine block
Tighten the oil pan bolts and nuts in sequence
Torque to: 18 ft lb (25 Nm).
Measure the clearance between the 3 oil pan-to-transmission housing measurement points in order to ensure proper alignment.
Install or connect the following:
A new oil pan drain plug seal (O-ring) onto the oil pan drain plug
On many vehicles the exhaust runs under the oil pan, on others there
may have a cross member in the way, or brackets that will hinder oil
pan removal. These parts need to be removed. The exhaust nuts/bolts
will most likely be rusted. It is best to spray them with penetrating
oil. You can use WD-40, PB Blaster, Deep Creep, or something similar.
After you have sprayed all of the nuts/bolts, let the penetrating oil
soak in for about 10 minutes. Now remove the exhaust pipe that runs
under the oil pan. The catalytic converter may, or may not be in the
piece that you have to remove. If you have to remove a cross member,
simply unbolt it and set it to the side, it is best to mark which side
is the front, as some will only go on one way. Other than that, you should not have to pull the engine at all.