Question about 2004 Chrysler 300M
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Parts Required: Change all the lights at once, it is not worth the
anguish of doing this over and over again
2 low-beam lights, 2 high-beam/running lights, 2 parking lights - part nos in the owners manual
A can of diet coke to clean the battery terminals is also recommended. *optional
Ratchet set : 10mm, 7mm, 6mm sockets
Large Flat screwdriver, small 4" flat screwdriver and a pair of pliers
12" Magnetic tip telescoping bit
Battery terminal cleaner * optional
First take off the plastic cover that cover that is across the front of the engine compartment. 6 push pins hold it in place, Use the long flat screw driver to pry them up and use the pliers to pull them off.
Gently take the plastic cover off and set it aside.
Next you will see 3 push pins that hold the front grill to the engine housing, using the long flat and a pair of pliers pull the 3 push pins out.
In the upper area of each wheel well, you will see a large 2.5" rubber grommet. Pull the rubber grommet out
Locate a 6mm bolt head that is driven vertically upwards. It is not visible looking at the wheel well. You have to lay down on the floor and you will find it about a foot below the grommet and at the edge of the fender. Use the the ratchet to remove this bolt headed screw. It is about a 1.5" long. Do this for both sides before going to the next step
Start with the passenger side as it is easier. Use the flash light and peer into the fender area from the engine compartment. You will see a nut on a bolt, and a plastic fastener.
Use the 10mm socket on the 12" extension. Insert it into the hole where the grommet was, and guide the socket on the nut head. It is about an 1" long. Be careful as you take it off, else you will be fishing for the bolt in the fender.
Pull on the plastic fender in the front till the bolt head and the fastener exit the fender. This has to be repeated for each side.
Locate 8mm bolt heads on top of the light assembly. Note it is not the Philips head - they are to level the lamps. Before undoing the bolts, check the spirit level on top of the lamp assembly and make a note of the bubbles position. You will need this when you put the assembly back. Undo both bolts, they have about an 1" of thread on the top and then you have to pull it up physically or with the use of the pliers
Pull the headlight assembly out - gently. Don't scratch the paint work and don't damage the rubber molding around the light assembly.
Step 8a*: If you see any salt build up on the battery terminals, pour diet coke or pepsi on the terminals, this neutralizes all the salt. Then pour some water to clean the gunk and then with a paper towel dry it. Be careful with the paper towel, as it contains sulfuric acid and is corrosive, put in in a garbage bag immediately. If you feel it has come into contact with your skin, was vigorously before continuing.
Note the position of the connector before you do anything. Turn the retaining rings holding each bulb counter clock wise. When you do this the bulb assembly and the connector will pull free. Two instances of this. Remove assembly, and place securely on a table
Locate the parking light below and turn the connector clockwise as you are looking over it. Pull out the old bulb and replace it. Do this for both sides. Turn on the parking lights to ensure they work, try the signals too. No sense it putting it all back together and nothing works. Replace the holder and bulb in reverse order. Note the unit should fit in nicely and rotate smoothly as you turn counter clockwise this time.
Using the 4" flat screwdriver, lift the locking pins gently and push the bulb out, Start with the low beams. Low beam has only 1 filament, high-beam/running light has 2 filaments. Put on the pair of surgical gloves, and open the pack of new bulbs, push the bulbs into the empty sockets, until the locking pins click into place. Change the low-and high beams.
Insert the bulb with the connector in the position you noted in step 9. Slide the mounting ring and then lock it into place by turning it clock-wise as you are looking at it from the rear of the assembly. Repeat this for both the high beam and low beam. Slide assembly back into cavity. Repeat this for the other side. Test the bulbs light correctly
Gently push back the front plastic so that the bolt and the plastic stud enter the fender. Pay attention to ensure that the fender lining sits correctly. Using the 12" ratchet extension and the 10mm socket mount the bolt back on and tighten. Do this for both sides
Using the ratchet mount the 6mm fastener on to the fender. Do this for both sides
Mount the jack screws on top of the headlight assembly. Tighten till the bubble in the spirit level returns to the original position. Don't push the bolt past its maximum. If it doesn't return to the original level, loosen and adjust the headlamp assembly and re-tighten. Do this for both headlamps.
Replace the 3 push pins that hold the front grill to the engine compartment. Replace the large plastic panel that was removed in step 1 and remount it using the 6 push pins.
Voila - you have changed all the bulbs on the front of the 1999 300M.
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Posted on Apr 02, 2010
SOURCE: changing headlight 300m
lift the hood. the light are down behind the light assembly. simply turn large black ring and it will come out. be carefull not to touch the glass on the new one. oil from your skin will cause it to prematurely fail.
Posted on Mar 11, 2009
SOURCE: changing the headlight
Not as hard as this sounds, but not as easy as most vehicles either.
Pop open the access hole in the wheel well and remove the fascia screw that points down near the hole.
Remove the 3 plastic rivets on the top where the grill meets the cross beam
Remove the fascia retaining nut accessed through the hole in the wheel well.
Pull the fascia down and forward to open access to the headlights. It might be a little stubborn.
Remove the two long mounting screws holding in the headlamps. Careful not to strip them.
You'll have to wiggle and maneuver the headlights out. You'll have to bend the fascia away, but it's plastic and will give. It's not difficult, but it takes a little finesse.
Once the bulbs are replaced, reverse the process.
Posted on Jun 25, 2009
Find the wiring connector on the back of the headlight (under the hood.) Unplug the connector and remove the lock ring around it (turn it like a jar lid a fraction of a turn.) Wiggle the bulb out - it is held in with a rubber ring. Secure the new one in place in the same position - it won't go in the wrong way. Reinstall the lock ring and wire connector.
Posted on Jan 16, 2010
Park your vehicle on level ground with the headlights near a garage door or wall. A good distance is 2-3 feet away from the wall or door. The location must be perfectly level and flat at a distance of 10 to 25 feet away from the door or wall.
Switch on the low headlight beams and mark the horizontal and vertical centerlines of each headlight beams on the wall using masking tape. This will mark the center of each beam with a +. The marking will tell you where exactly the headlight beams should be centered from a distance.
Move the vehicle back about 10 to 25 feet away from the garage door or the wall.
Keep the headlights on the low beam setting.
Use the markings you made on the wall or garage door to, check where the light shines and see if the centerlines still match up with the masking tape marks. If the centerlines of the two beams do not align with the tape marks, you can adjust one or both sides as needed.
Make the necessary adjustments with the lights still on while watching the light beams on the wall and your marks.
Turning the top adjusting screws in a clockwise direction will raise the beam while counterclockwise turn will lower it.
Turning the side adjuster screws will adjust the lights to the left or right.
Continue the adjustments until the center of the light beams are aligned with the tape marks. Then adjust the vertical alignment of both beams slightly below the marks on the wall. This will assure that the lights are tilted slightly downward so they won’t blind approaching motorist.
The will align bot lights, the high and low sine both are connected to the same headlight!!
Posted on Mar 05, 2010
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