Mine was a crankshaft sensor problem. was not able to start until engine cooled down....
Is this car throwing out a check engine light, and if so do you know what, if any, codes are being set, also what engine is this a v/6 or a 4 cyl?
How many miles are on it, I can tell you it almost sounds like a clogged catalyctic converter, if it is a 4 cylinder and the "catalyctic converter" is clogged I would suspect a rich run condition is the cause when this engine is being driven causing the "cat" to clog from a full rich fuel mixture being dumped into the core of the "cat's" honey combed or pellet type construction, and thus restricting the exhaust, to determine if the "cat" is clogged let the engine cool down attach a vacumn gauge on the intake manifold and read the vacumn engine running, then proceed to drive the vehicle, if the "cat" is clogged the gauge will drop as soon as the car starts to run poorly just before it dies out, causing the vac. gauge to read near zero vacumn, a new catalyctic will repair this condition, however be sure the "Idle Air Control Valve" is not the culprit here causing the engine to run rich, if the IAC motor/valve is stuck, then replacing it can be done using any parts store, they have them on the shelf for approx. $80.00 and some are not too hard to replace, follow directions that come with the replacement valve/motor.
And if you had computer codes make a note of what they were and erase the codes using the hand scanning device, or use the old method of disconnecting the battery for 10 seconds thus clearing all computer codes from the system, test drive to check if condition is corrected.
Will not start when hot
It almost sounds like your car is vapor locking, but with the information given it could be a lot of things.
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Is this car throwing out a check engine light, and if so do you know what the code is, also what engine is this a v/6 or a 4 cyl?
How many miles are on it, I can tell you it almost sounds like a clogged catalyctic converter, if it is a 4 cylinder and the " is clogged I would suspect a rich run condition is happening when this engine is being driven causing the "cat" to clog and restrict the exhaust, to determine if the "cat" is clogged let the engine cool down attach a vacumn gauge on the intake manifold and read the vacumn, if the "cat" is clogged the gauge will drop as soon as the car starts to run poorly just before it dies out going to near zero vacumn on the gauge, a new catalyctic will repair this however be sure the "Idle Air Control Valve \" isnot the culprit here causing the engine to run rich if the IAC motor/valve is stuck any parts store will have them on the shelf for approx. $80.00 and some are not too hard to replace, follow directions that come with the replacement valve/motor.
Is this car throwing out a check engine light, and if so do you know what the code is, also what engine is this a v/6 or a 4 cyl?
How many miles are on it, I can tell you it almost sounds like a clogged catalyctic converter, if it is a 4 cylinder and the " is clogged I would suspect a rich run condition is happening when this engine is being driven causing the "cat" to clog and restrict the exhaust, to determine if the "cat" is clogged let the engine cool down attach a vacumn gauge on the intake manifold and read the vacumn, if the "cat" is clogged the gauge will drop as soon as the car starts to run poorly just before it dies out going to near zero vacumn on the gauge, a new catalyctic will repair this however be sure the "Idle Air Control Valve \" isnot the culprit here causing the engine to run rich if the IAC motor/valve is stuck any parts store will have them on the shelf for approx. $80.00 and some are not too hard to replace, follow directions that come with the replacement valve/motor.
Is this car throwing out a check engine light, and if so do you know what the code is, also what engine is this a v/6 or a 4 cyl?
How many miles are on it, I can tell you it almost sounds like a clogged catalyctic converter, if it is a 4 cylinder and the " is clogged I would suspect a rich run condition is happening when this engine is being driven causing the "cat" to clog and restrict the exhaust, to determine if the "cat" is clogged let the engine cool down attach a vacumn gauge on the intake manifold and read the vacumn, if the "cat" is clogged the gauge will drop as soon as the car starts to run poorly just before it dies out going to near zero vacumn on the gauge, a new catalyctic will repair this however be sure the "Idle Air Control Valve \" isnot the culprit here causing the engine to run rich if the IAC motor/valve is stuck any parts store will have them on the shelf for approx. $80.00 and some are not too hard to replace, follow directions that come with the replacement valve/motor.
Is this car throwing out a check engine light, and if so do you know what the code is, also what engine is this a v/6 or a 4 cyl?
How many miles are on it, I can tell you it almost sounds like a clogged catalyctic converter, if it is a 4 cylinder and the " is clogged I would suspect a rich run condition is happening when this engine is being driven causing the "cat" to clog and restrict the exhaust, to determine if the "cat" is clogged let the engine cool down attach a vacumn gauge on the intake manifold and read the vacumn, if the "cat" is clogged the gauge will drop as soon as the car starts to run poorly just before it dies out going to near zero vacumn on the gauge, a new catalyctic will repair this however be sure the "Idle Air Control Valve \" isnot the culprit here causing the engine to run rich if the IAC motor/valve is stuck any parts store will have them on the shelf for approx. $80.00 and some are not too hard to replace, follow directions that come with the replacement valve/motor.
Is this car throwing out a check engine light, and if so do you know what the code is, also what engine is this a v/6 or a 4 cyl?
How many miles are on it, I can tell you it almost sounds like a clogged catalyctic converter, if it is a 4 cylinder and the " is clogged I would suspect a rich run condition is happening when this engine is being driven causing the "cat" to clog and restrict the exhaust, to determine if the "cat" is clogged let the engine cool down attach a vacumn gauge on the intake manifold and read the vacumn, if the "cat" is clogged the gauge will drop as soon as the car starts to run poorly just before it dies out going to near zero vacumn on the gauge, a new catalyctic will repair this however be sure the "Idle Air Control Valve \" isnot the culprit here causing the engine to run rich if the IAC motor/valve is stuck any parts store will have them on the shelf for approx. $80.00 and some are not too hard to replace, follow directions that come with the replacement valve/motor.
Is this car throwing out a check engine light, and if so do you know what the code is, also what engine is this a v/6 or a 4 cyl?
How many miles are on it, I can tell you it almost sounds like a clogged catalyctic converter, if it is a 4 cylinder and the " is clogged I would suspect a rich run condition is happening when this engine is being driven causing the "cat" to clog and restrict the exhaust, to determine if the "cat" is clogged let the engine cool down attach a vacumn gauge on the intake manifold and read the vacumn, if the "cat" is clogged the gauge will drop as soon as the car starts to run poorly just before it dies out going to near zero vacumn on the gauge, a new catalyctic will repair this however be sure the "Idle Air Control Valve \" isnot the culprit here causing the engine to run rich if the IAC motor/valve is stuck any parts store will have them on the shelf for approx. $80.00 and some are not too hard to replace, follow directions that come with the replacement valve/motor.
Is this car throwing out a check engine light, and if so do you know what the code is, also what engine is this a v/6 or a 4 cyl?
How many miles are on it, I can tell you it almost sounds like a clogged catalyctic converter, if it is a 4 cylinder and the " is clogged I would suspect a rich run condition is happening when this engine is being driven causing the "cat" to clog and restrict the exhaust, to determine if the "cat" is clogged let the engine cool down attach a vacumn gauge on the intake manifold and read the vacumn, if the "cat" is clogged the gauge will drop as soon as the car starts to run poorly just before it dies out going to near zero vacumn on the gauge, a new catalyctic will repair this however be sure the "Idle Air Control Valve \" isnot the culprit here causing the engine to run rich if the IAC motor/valve is stuck any parts store will have them on the shelf for approx. $80.00 and some are not too hard to replace, follow directions that come with the replacement valve/motor.
Is this car throwing out a check engine light, and if so do you know what the code is, also what engine is this a v/6 or a 4 cyl?
How many miles are on it, I can tell you it almost sounds like a clogged catalyctic converter, if it is a 4 cylinder and the " is clogged I would suspect a rich run condition is happening when this engine is being driven causing the "cat" to clog and restrict the exhaust, to determine if the "cat" is clogged let the engine cool down attach a vacumn gauge on the intake manifold and read the vacumn, if the "cat" is clogged the gauge will drop as soon as the car starts to run poorly just before it dies out going to near zero vacumn on the gauge, a new catalyctic will repair this however be sure the "Idle Air Control Valve \" isnot the culprit here causing the engine to run rich if the IAC motor/valve is stuck any parts store will have them on the shelf for approx. $80.00 and some are not too hard to replace, follow directions that come with the replacement valve/motor.
Is this car throwing out a check engine light, and if so do you know what the code is, also what engine is this a v/6 or a 4 cyl?
How many miles are on it, I can tell you it almost sounds like a clogged catalyctic converter, if it is a 4 cylinder and the " is clogged I would suspect a rich run condition is happening when this engine is being driven causing the "cat" to clog and restrict the exhaust, to determine if the "cat" is clogged let the engine cool down attach a vacumn gauge on the intake manifold and read the vacumn, if the "cat" is clogged the gauge will drop as soon as the car starts to run poorly just before it dies out going to near zero vacumn on the gauge, a new catalyctic will repair this however be sure the "Idle Air Control Valve \" isnot the culprit here causing the engine to run rich if the IAC motor/valve is stuck any parts store will have them on the shelf for approx. $80.00 and some are not too hard to replace, follow directions that come with the replacement valve/motor.
Is this car throwing out a check engine light, and if so do you know what, if any, codes are being set, also what engine is this a v/6 or a 4 cyl?
How many miles are on it, I can tell you it almost sounds like a clogged catalyctic converter, if it is a 4 cylinder and the "catalyctic converter" is clogged I would suspect a rich run condition is the cause when this engine is being driven causing the "cat" to clog from a full rich fuel mixture being dumped into the core of the "cat's" honey combed or pellet type construction, and
thus restricting the exhaust, to determine if the "cat" is clogged let the engine cool down attach a vacumn gauge on the intake manifold and read the vacumn engine running, then proceed to drive the vehicle, if the "cat" is clogged the gauge will drop as soon as the car starts to run poorly just before it dies out, causing the vac. gauge to read near zero vacumn, a new catalyctic will repair this condition, however be sure the "Idle Air Control Valve" is not the culprit here causing the engine to run rich, if the IAC motor/valve is stuck, then replacing it can be done using any parts store, they have them on the shelf for approx. $80.00 and some are not too hard to replace, follow directions that come with the replacement valve/motor.
And if you had computer codes make a note of what they were and erase the codes using the hand scanning device, or use the old method of disconnecting the battery for 10 seconds thus clearing all computer codes from the system, test drive to check if condition is corrected.
Is this car throwing out a check engine light, and if so do you know what, if any, codes are being set, also what engine is this a v/6 or a 4 cyl?
How many miles are on it, I can tell you it almost sounds like a clogged catalyctic converter, if it is a 4 cylinder and the "catalyctic converter" is clogged I would suspect a rich run condition is the cause when this engine is being driven causing the "cat" to clog from a full rich fuel mixture being dumped into the core of the "cat's" honey combed or pellet type construction, and
thus restricting the exhaust, to determine if the "cat" is clogged let the engine cool down attach a vacumn gauge on the intake manifold and read the vacumn engine running, then proceed to drive the vehicle, if the "cat" is clogged the gauge will drop as soon as the car starts to run poorly just before it dies out, causing the vac. gauge to read near zero vacumn, a new catalyctic will repair this condition, however be sure the "Idle Air Control Valve" is not the culprit here causing the engine to run rich, if the IAC motor/valve is stuck, then replacing it can be done using any parts store, they have them on the shelf for approx. $80.00 and some are not too hard to replace, follow directions that come with the replacement valve/motor.
And if you had computer codes make a note of what they were and erase the codes using the hand scanning device, or use the old method of disconnecting the battery for 10 seconds thus clearing all computer codes from the system, test drive to check if condition is corrected.
Is this car throwing out a check engine light, and if so do you know what, if any, codes are being set, also what engine is this a v/6 or a 4 cyl?
How many miles are on it, I can tell you it almost sounds like a clogged catalyctic converter, if it is a 4 cylinder and the "catalyctic converter" is clogged I would suspect a rich run condition is the cause when this engine is being driven causing the "cat" to clog from a full rich fuel mixture being dumped into the core of the "cat's" honey combed or pellet type construction, and
thus restricting the exhaust, to determine if the "cat" is clogged let the engine cool down attach a vacumn gauge on the intake manifold and read the vacumn engine running, then proceed to drive the vehicle, if the "cat" is clogged the gauge will drop as soon as the car starts to run poorly just before it dies out, causing the vac. gauge to read near zero vacumn, a new catalyctic will repair this condition, however be sure the "Idle Air Control Valve" is not the culprit here causing the engine to run rich, if the IAC motor/valve is stuck, then replacing it can be done using any parts store, they have them on the shelf for approx. $80.00 and some are not too hard to replace, follow directions that come with the replacement valve/motor.
And if you had computer codes make a note of what they were and erase the codes using the hand scanning device, or use the old method of disconnecting the battery for 10 seconds thus clearing all computer codes from the system, test drive to check if condition is corrected.
Is this car throwing out a check engine light, and if so do you know what, if any, codes are being set, also what engine is this a v/6 or a 4 cyl?
How many miles are on it, I can tell you it almost sounds like a clogged catalyctic converter, if it is a 4 cylinder and the "catalyctic converter" is clogged I would suspect a rich run condition is the cause when this engine is being driven causing the "cat" to clog from a full rich fuel mixture being dumped into the core of the "cat's" honey combed or pellet type construction, and
thus restricting the exhaust, to determine if the "cat" is clogged let the engine cool down attach a vacumn gauge on the intake manifold and read the vacumn engine running, then proceed to drive the vehicle, if the "cat" is clogged the gauge will drop as soon as the car starts to run poorly just before it dies out, causing the vac. gauge to read near zero vacumn, a new catalyctic will repair this condition, however be sure the "Idle Air Control Valve" is not the culprit here causing the engine to run rich, if the IAC motor/valve is stuck, then replacing it can be done using any parts store, they have them on the shelf for approx. $80.00 and some are not too hard to replace, follow directions that come with the replacement valve/motor.
And if you had computer codes make a note of what they were and erase the codes using the hand scanning device, or use the old method of disconnecting the battery for 10 seconds thus clearing all computer codes from the system, test drive to check if condition is corrected.
Is this car throwing out a check engine light, and if so do you know what, if any, codes are being set, also what engine is this a v/6 or a 4 cyl?
How many miles are on it, I can tell you it almost sounds like a clogged catalyctic converter, if it is a 4 cylinder and the "catalyctic converter" is clogged I would suspect a rich run condition is the cause when this engine is being driven causing the "cat" to clog from a full rich fuel mixture being dumped into the core of the "cat's" honey combed or pellet type construction, and
thus restricting the exhaust, to determine if the "cat" is clogged let the engine cool down attach a vacumn gauge on the intake manifold and read the vacumn engine running, then proceed to drive the vehicle, if the "cat" is clogged the gauge will drop as soon as the car starts to run poorly just before it dies out, causing the vac. gauge to read near zero vacumn, a new catalyctic will repair this condition, however be sure the "Idle Air Control Valve" is not the culprit here causing the engine to run rich, if the IAC motor/valve is stuck, then replacing it can be done using any parts store, they have them on the shelf for approx. $80.00 and some are not too hard to replace, follow directions that come with the replacement valve/motor.
And if you had computer codes make a note of what they were and erase the codes using the hand scanning device, or use the old method of disconnecting the battery for 10 seconds thus clearing all computer codes from the system, test drive to check if condition is corrected.
Is this car throwing out a check engine light, and if so do you know what, if any, codes are being set, also what engine is this a v/6 or a 4 cyl?
How many miles are on it, I can tell you it almost sounds like a clogged catalyctic converter, if it is a 4 cylinder and the "catalyctic converter" is clogged I would suspect a rich run condition is the cause when this engine is being driven causing the "cat" to clog from a full rich fuel mixture being dumped into the core of the "cat's" honey combed or pellet type construction, and
thus restricting the exhaust, to determine if the "cat" is clogged let the engine cool down attach a vacumn gauge on the intake manifold and read the vacumn engine running, then proceed to drive the vehicle, if the "cat" is clogged the gauge will drop as soon as the car starts to run poorly just before it dies out, causing the vac. gauge to read near zero vacumn, a new catalyctic will repair this condition, however be sure the "Idle Air Control Valve" is not the culprit here causing the engine to run rich, if the IAC motor/valve is stuck, then replacing it can be done using any parts store, they have them on the shelf for approx. $80.00 and some are not too hard to replace, follow directions that come with the replacement valve/motor.
And if you had computer codes make a note of what they were and erase the codes using the hand scanning device, or use the old method of disconnecting the battery for 10 seconds thus clearing all computer codes from the system, test drive to check if condition is corrected.
Is this car throwing out a check engine light, and if so do you know what, if any, codes are being set, also what engine is this a v/6 or a 4 cyl?
How many miles are on it, I can tell you it almost sounds like a clogged catalyctic converter, if it is a 4 cylinder and the "catalyctic converter" is clogged I would suspect a rich run condition is the cause when this engine is being driven causing the "cat" to clog from a full rich fuel mixture being dumped into the core of the "cat's" honey combed or pellet type construction, and
thus restricting the exhaust, to determine if the "cat" is clogged let the engine cool down attach a vacumn gauge on the intake manifold and read the vacumn engine running, then proceed to drive the vehicle, if the "cat" is clogged the gauge will drop as soon as the car starts to run poorly just before it dies out, causing the vac. gauge to read near zero vacumn, a new catalyctic will repair this condition, however be sure the "Idle Air Control Valve" is not the culprit here causing the engine to run rich, if the IAC motor/valve is stuck, then replacing it can be done using any parts store, they have them on the shelf for approx. $80.00 and some are not too hard to replace, follow directions that come with the replacement valve/motor.
And if you had computer codes make a note of what they were and erase the codes using the hand scanning device, or use the old method of disconnecting the battery for 10 seconds thus clearing all computer codes from the system, test drive to check if condition is corrected.
Is this car throwing out a check engine light, and if so do you know what, if any, codes are being set, also what engine is this a v/6 or a 4 cyl?
How many miles are on it, I can tell you it almost sounds like a clogged catalyctic converter, if it is a 4 cylinder and the "catalyctic converter" is clogged I would suspect a rich run condition is the cause when this engine is being driven causing the "cat" to clog from a full rich fuel mixture being dumped into the core of the "cat's" honey combed or pellet type construction, and
thus restricting the exhaust, to determine if the "cat" is clogged let the engine cool down attach a vacumn gauge on the intake manifold and read the vacumn engine running, then proceed to drive the vehicle, if the "cat" is clogged the gauge will drop as soon as the car starts to run poorly just before it dies out, causing the vac. gauge to read near zero vacumn, a new catalyctic will repair this condition, however be sure the "Idle Air Control Valve" is not the culprit here causing the engine to run rich, if the IAC motor/valve is stuck, then replacing it can be done using any parts store, they have them on the shelf for approx. $80.00 and some are not too hard to replace, follow directions that come with the replacement valve/motor.
And if you had computer codes make a note of what they were and erase the codes using the hand scanning device, or use the old method of disconnecting the battery for 10 seconds thus clearing all computer codes from the system, test drive to check if condition is corrected.
Is this car throwing out a check engine light, and if so do you know what, if any, codes are being set, also what engine is this a v/6 or a 4 cyl?
How many miles are on it, I can tell you it almost sounds like a clogged catalyctic converter, if it is a 4 cylinder and the "catalyctic converter" is clogged I would suspect a rich run condition is the cause when this engine is being driven causing the "cat" to clog from a full rich fuel mixture being dumped into the core of the "cat's" honey combed or pellet type construction, and
thus restricting the exhaust, to determine if the "cat" is clogged let the engine cool down attach a vacumn gauge on the intake manifold and read the vacumn engine running, then proceed to drive the vehicle, if the "cat" is clogged the gauge will drop as soon as the car starts to run poorly just before it dies out, causing the vac. gauge to read near zero vacumn, a new catalyctic will repair this condition, however be sure the "Idle Air Control Valve" is not the culprit here causing the engine to run rich, if the IAC motor/valve is stuck, then replacing it can be done using any parts store, they have them on the shelf for approx. $80.00 and some are not too hard to replace, follow directions that come with the replacement valve/motor.
And if you had computer codes make a note of what they were and erase the codes using the hand scanning device, or use the old method of disconnecting the battery for 10 seconds thus clearing all computer codes from the system, test drive to check if condition is
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