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The clutch slave cylinder shouldn't cause a no-start condition. If you replaced the clutch master cylinder there is a possibility that you may have to readjust the clutch safety switch in order to make it work to allow the engine to crank. If the engine cranks but doesn't start, you may want to look around down near the side of the transmission where you were working to ensure that you did not damage or remove the crankshaft position sensor electrical connector. If this is damaged or removed the engine will not start.
It could be. Does either one drip? If not you might the Master Cylinder of the Clutch may be the only one to be in the need to replace. But it is a better choice to replace both. Some of the slave cylinders are a donut type that is built into the throw out bearing. That is a chore.
find someone who knows how to bleed a system, just like bleeding brakes but with only 1 wheel cylinder. Helps if you tie a rope on the clutch pedal so the person inside the car can pull it back up when he is doing the pumpings between bleedings. Do not let a woman do that for you. There could well have been a thin crush washer between the line and the slave which you neglected to replace with a new one when you reassembled, if that is not there you will never get it bled. It crushes down when you tighten it to seal the system and it only crushes once
Hydraulic clutch systems are renown for having airlocks in them once the fluid has drained out.
1.With the Master cylinder full have an assistant pump the clutch pedal acouple of times and keep it on the floor.
2. Release the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder to allow the air out and then tighten.
3. Assistant then allows pedal to come up.They may need to pull back pedal if it does not return by itself.
4.Repeat from #1 until no nore bubbles are seen coming out of the slave cylinder bleed nipple.
If you have a length of suitable size plastic tube that fits neatly over the the slave cylinder bleed nipple , the bubbles will be seen more clearly.
It could thae 8 to 10 pump sequences to clear the air lock. If the clutch still feels spongy, repeat the sequence after a couple of days driving.
Thn the problem is the clutch master cylinder, it should build up pressure, ok try out this, remove the pipe which is going to the slave cylinder either from the clutch master cylinder or at the clutch slave cylinder and get someone to pump the pedal while you block the pipe and see if there is fluid thrown out with pressure.If there is pressure there thn fit back the pipe and refill the reserviour wth brake fluid and open the bleeding nipple at the slave cylinder let some fluid pour out and tighten it and thn pump the pedal and retry bleeding.
If there is no pressure at the pipe thn its the clutch master cylinder.
Hope this helps!
Is there any oil coming out of the slave cylinder ? Try cracking the bleed screw and gravity bleed the slave. Check the reservoir to ensure that you maintain adiquit oil in it, may push your air lock out, if that is what it is, chances are that it is your slave cylinder giving you all the problems.
you have to replace the master and slave. if there is no bleeder, you might get lucky bench bleeding it, but the whole assy, comes from dealer pre-bled. The system is sealed and even to do a clutch or trans, you shouldnt have to take it apart. DO NOT PUSH CLUTCH WITHOUT ALL PARTS HOOKED UP! youll break it.
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