Car won't start. Carb and choke work fine. If I hold the ignition in the start position too many times or too long, there is a spooling sound. My thoughts are the battery, altenator. The starter might be going out too, I am just looking for a temporary solution until I can afford to start rebuilding the engine. I just need it to run.

The idle control switch at the back of the carb is either dead or not fully conected. Wire from idle valve to ignition positive and carb grounded.

The problem is that when you have the switch in the START position, you are getting power to the ignition system, but not when in the RUN position. Most likely causes are a bad ignition switch, a faulty aftermarket alarm system [if it has one] or a bad ballest resistor wire going to the ignition coil's + terminal. You need to break out your test light and start checking to see where the fault lies.

it sounds like the choke isn't closing on the carburetor when the engine is cold ( more gas, less air). normally step on gas pedal once to close choke before starting. need to find someone familiar with carburetors to help as it can be technical setting it up

Check that your choke is working properly.
Start with a tune-up, new gas filter, air filter if dirty, oil and oil filter, spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor. If your spark plug wires are old, buy a new set, or test yours with an ohmmeter.
If still bad, check if your fuel pump is putting enough gas into the carburetor. Take the gas line off at carb. and check volume flow into a container. Also the carb may need adjustments-maybe the fuel level in carb. bowl is too low-would need to raise float height. Check if the needle valve and seat at the gas inlet to carb is not clogged or stopped from trash or debris.
Look down the throat of carb and watch for gas jetting out when you open the throttle to wide open-you should see gas spurt downward, if not, the carb needs some work to it.
Is your choke adjusted right? Sounds like it may not be-the choke flap should be nearly closed when starting, partially open after running, and fully open after the engine warms up.
Other problems could be weak ignition components-possibly a coil or igniter-what Toyota calls an ignition module.
Post back with what you find. Webers are great carburetors-much better than stock.

stick the key in the ignition, turn it to the on position, remove it within 5 seconds, then hold the unlock button down and press the lock button 3 times within 10 seconds and release both buttons. The doors should lock/unlock to give you confirmation and your key should work.

sounds like a starter. if possible without getting hurt maimed or mutilated, try tapping on the starter (best done with a rod standing beside the car) while someone holds the key in the start position. if car starts (works about 50% of the time) it's the starter. otherwise, if all lites come on, radio works, etc but nothing when you turn the key, replace the starter

try removing air filter and spaying CARB CLEANER in carb while holding open intake rub thouroughly with hand in side carb, start vehicle and run... spray more cleane and by hand throttle open and spray reinstall filte and runner good on open stretch of highway.
see how that works

Hello!


if you have a carbuerator unit on her, i assume you a refering to the fuel overfilling the bowl and flooding oiut after vehicle is shut off. this can be caused by a worn or dirty needle for the float, or possibly the float itself has ruptured and is partialy submirsed allowing excess fuel to enter the fuel bowl. i believe you may have a 307 or 260 engine that came with a rochester 2 barrel carb. there are unly a few screws on top of this carb and is quite simple to check...just be careful to place all pieces back in same position removed from...although with that age, the gaskets will likely tear when taking apart. it may be worth your while to check into a complete replacement from NAPA. anyways, once the 4 or 6 screws (cant remember) are off from top of carb (i suggest having the carb removed from engine as if you drop a screw into throat of carb and the engine ingests it..its bye bye engine)...the float will be exposed..carefully lift it out paying attention to the needle position once out...be carefule to not bend the tang that needle hangs on as this is you float depth that sets the volume of fuel allowed in bowl. and shake it to see if fuel is inside float. if so, replace it..if not, you may be able to spray carb cleaner into the seat that float needle sits in and wash off the needle itself..reasseble and recheck performance..also it is a good idea to replace fuel filter when carb is off...i hope this help you...good luck!

ps your 4 thumbs up is much appreciated

I HAVE PERSONALLY CHANGED A FEW THROTTLE POSITON SENSORS IN THESE VEHICLES. BUT BEFORE YOU DO THAT, TRY SPRAYING SOME CARB AND CHOKE SPRAY IN THE THROTTLE BODY WHILE THE CAR IS RUNNING. YOU MAY HAVE TO HOLD IT AT A HIGH IDLE SO IT DOESN'T DIE ON YOU. THIS SHOULD HELP TO REMOVE THE CARBON IN THE THROTTLE BODY. IF IT STILL WANTS TO CHOKE, THEN CHANGE THE T.P.S. HOPE THIS HELPS. PLEASE KEEP ME POSTED. THANKS FOR AN HONEST RATING AND FOR USING FIX-YA. GOOD LUCK

here is a trick you can try to get the window back up 75% of the time it will work. Sit in the car turn the ignition on and open the door were the window quit working. now hold the window switch in the up position and slam the door shut while still holding the switch in the up position this should get the motor past the bad spot