When driving my 1997 Dodge Avenger its fine until I come to a stop alot water leaks from engine its not from the radiator or the water pump

the water pump sould be located at the front end of the engine as it will be driven by a belt ...it should be located low down and to the front of the engine bay for accessibility.....this is a generalisation that ......generally...hold true.

please see link below for more information on this matter




How do you replace the water pump on 1997 Dodge Avenger 2 5L V6

Have you checked the thermostat to see if it opens at 195 degrees ?
Is the radiator cap working correctly ?

CHECK ENGINE COOLANT LEVEL.MAKE SURE COOLANT OVER FLOW JUG HAS COOLANT IN FULL COLD MARK.IF COOLANT OVER FLOW JUG IS EMPTY RADIATOR GOT TO BE LOW ON COOLANT POUR COOLANT IN THE OVER FLOW UNTIL COOLANT LEVEL STAY AT THE COLD FULL MARK.SEE IF RADIATOR DONT HAVE A RADIATOR CAP YOU HAVE TO POUR COOLANT IN THE OVER FLOW JUG COOLANT WILL FLOW DOWN IN RADIATOR UNTIL COOLANT LEVEL STOP AT FULL COLD MARK.IF COOLANT LEVEL OKAY.YOUR THERMOSTAT NEED CHANGING ALSO RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP.HAVE RADIATOR FLUSHED OUT.HAVE ENGINE BLOCK FLUSHED OUT.CHECK ENGINE OIL IF OIL LOOK LIKE MILK SHAKE ON OIL DIP STICK YOU HAVE LEAKING HEAD GASKET THAT WILL CAUSE ENGINE OVER HEAT WHILE CAR IN MOTION.CHECK WATER PUMP MAKE SURE ITS WEEP HOLE NOT LEAKING ANTIFREEZE IF SO WATER PUMP NEED REPLACING.

Now that you've eliminated the thermostat, it could be a number of other things. Don't drive the car too far until you've fixed the overheating problem - overheating can destroy an engine.

That split ribbed hose you see is plastic wire loom - it carries and protects electrical wires, and is not the cause of overheating.

1. Low coolant level
2. Radiator hose split/cracked, causing low coolant level.
3. Head Gasket - leaking, causing low coolant level
4. Thermostat - stuck closed (you eliminated this possibility)
5. Radiator cap - worn/damaged
6. Radiator fins - obstructed by debris/cardboard
7. Water Pump belt - missing/broken
8. Heater Core - leaking, causing low coolant level
9. Intake Manifold Gasket - leaking, worn, damaged
10. Radiator Fan Relay - faulty
11. Radiator Fan Blade - broken, missing
12. Radiator Fan Sensor/Switch - faulty
13. Water Pump - leaking, causing low coolant level
14. Radiator Fan Motor - faulty

My primary suspects would be Rad Fan Relay (#10), and
Rad Fan Switch (#12).

When I had this issue it was because the seal has worn or flattened so much in the water neck that it was leaking. Follow the upper hose to the engine which will go to the water neck. I replaced both the thermostat and the water neck and this fixed the leaking problem. But, you have to fully burp the system of all the air, otherwise, it'll keep overheating or get close to doing it.

SOUND LIKE RADIATOR HOSES AND RADIATOR.ONLY WAY TO CHECK IS FILL UP RADIATOR WITH COOLANT.CRANK UP CAR UNTIL WARMS UP.LET RADIATOR PRESSURE BUILD UP.THEN TURN OFF CAR.LOOK FOR WATER LEAKS AT RADIATOR HOSES AND AROUND THE RADIATOR.

Did you check the idle air control valve? See tips at the link below.
Do It Yourself Diagnosis and Repair

Go to the autozone website at autozone,com and register your vehicle. It's free and will give you access to an online repair manual for your vehicle. The steps for replacing the water pump on your car should be found there. Sure hope this helped and best wishes.

the dealer should be able to get these. you may have to remove the intake manifold or see what you have to remove in order to do the job. its not something an amateur should try to do. They usually leak because of poor maint, and degraded coolant. If its leaking, more cooling problems are likely on the way.

turn off radio so you wont lose code.disconnect negative battery cable.remove drive belt.get a drain pan to catch coolant.place it under the radiator.then open the radiator drain on the lower right side of radiator.then remove coolant pressure cap and open thermostat bleed valve.BESURE TO PUT COOLANT SOME WHERE SAFE .BECAUSE KIDS AND PETS WILL DRANK IT.know you going to have to move the timing belt.besure to get your engine on TDC AT NUMBER 1 FIRING POSITION.REMOVE THE WATER PUMP BOLTS.AND PUMP.THROW AWAY THE O-RING SEAL.CLEAN GASKET SURFACE DO NOT SCRATCH.INSTALL NEW O-RING DIP IT IN COOLANT.DONT GET DIRT OR GREASE ON IT OR IT WILL LEAK.THEN YOU PUT .PUMP AND O-RING TO THE ENGINE BLOCK.INSTALL THE MOUNTING BOLTS.TORQUE TO 105 INCH POUNDS.THEN YOUR TURN PUMP WITH HANDS MAKE ITS NOT TO TIGHT AND CLEAR. INSTALL THE TIMING BELT LOOK AT TIMING MARKS.GET A HAYNES MANUAL YOU NEED PICTURES TO SEE THE TIMING MARKS.BECAUSE IF TIMING OFF.YOUR ENGINE IS DAMAGED.WHEN YOU GET TIMING RIGHT THEN YOU CLOSE RADIATOR DRAIN.THEN YOU OPEN THERMOSTAT BLEED VALVE.GET A 1/4 INCH CLEAR HOSE ABOUT 48 INCHES LONG.YOU PUT ONE END ON BLEED VALVE AND THE OTHER END IN A EMPTY CONTAINER.TO KEEP COOLANT OFF THE DRIVE BELTS.NOW YOU START FILLING WITH COOLANT BY POUR IT IN THE COOLANT PRESSURE BOTTLE UNTIL A STEADY STREAM OF COOLANT RUN OUT THE THERMOSTAT BLEED VALVE THROUGH THE CLEAR HOSE.GENTLY SQUEEZE TOP RADIATOR HOSE UNTIL AIR OUT OF THE SYSTEM.CLOSE BLEED VALVE REMOVE CLEAR HOSE.FINISH ADDING COOLANT TO COOLANT PRESSURE BOTTLE UNTIL YOU GET TO THE RIGHT LEVEL.PLACE CAP BACK ON COOLANT BOTTLE.RECONNECT NEGATIVE BATTERY.START ENGINE.LET IDLE CHECK FOR LEAKS. IF OVERHEATS YOU STILL HAVE AIR IN SYSTEM.LET IT SET A WHILE ADD MORE COOLANT IF NEEDED DONT DRIVE UNTIL IT STOP OVERHEATING.IF OVERHEAT WHILE IDLING WAIT AWHILE CHECK COOLANT LEVEL.DONT OPEN TOO SOON YOU WILL GET SCALDED.KEEP DOING THIS WHEN IT STOP OVER HEATING AIR IS OUT AND YOU CAN DRIVE IT.