Engine noise from 2k to 3k only

Hey Penny, there could be a bunch of things going on , try disconnecting the battery ,negative first then positive and let it sit for a few min. 10 or so then reconnect and see if every thing goes back to normal ,do you have any check engine lights on ? or stored codes in the OBD computer.?

what engine. we cant guess or see it. lots of engines in camry world wide.
alldata.com

in mine it has 58 steps and 25 photos. times 2 for remove and install.
im not scanning them.

buy the FSM like we do
or alldata.com for 15 clams.
http://www.scantool.net/software/alldata-diy-1-month-subscription.html

Click here to see.

don't ram it into a pole, that seldom helps the ticking.
get a pressure test done to be sure the oil pump is functioning as it should, motor flush is not always a good idea but if it helped then it probably didn't get rid of all of the sludge, if a lifter collapses, it will always tick no matter what you do, if it is an oil pressure issue the tick can come and go.
one thing to consider, sludge happens from poor maintenance, it can hide other issues, clearing out all of the sludge can cause an engine knock if the bearings are worn.

this is just an oxygen sensor like on most American cars. might cost $60 to $80 im guessing.

have your IAC valve checked, this is located at the throttle body, Possibly dirty and may be sticking. Replace if necessary!! Hopefully this helps!!

other than the quality of the Camry, the canister has to do with the emissions system. You may have no problems at all in the short term, but depending on your states inspection laws and so forth you may not be able to get the vehicle to pass inspection if the light is on. Get the code cleared and then see what happens.

sounds like a broken timing belt,timing belts like to break during engine cranking and engine shut down. there are inspection holes in the timing cover,if you can't determine, remove top half of timing cover and check belt for slap,if there's slap,it's broke.

Hello,

It would be nice to know the past history of the car. For example, does the engine suddenly stall or does it slowly lose rpm and then stall, or does the car run fine and then sometimes idle erratically but never used to stall and now does. Can you wait 10-20 min and then it starts? etc?

Please check the Coolant Temperature Sensor (via an Ohm meter) for an Open circuit (infinite resistance) or possibly high fluctuation resistance.

Check that approx. +5V is present at the Sensor when ignition is on (engine Not running) by removing the connector and probing the connector.

Probe resistance during idle when engine is Cold and watch as the engine Warms to fully warm (normal) temperature. When cold, the resistance should be high (about 2K ohms to 4K ohms) and should decrease down to about .3K ohms fully warm (See page 6-8 in Haynes Manual).

If this issue is intermittent, it may be difficult to see it however large fluctuations in resistance when the engine is warm (1K ohm or so) could indicate the sensor is flaky. If the Sensor is open (infinite), replace the sensor.

Note: I don't recall for sure, but this error may be a "double trip" in that it is only logged if the issue occurs more than once (2+). Also, an error in this sensor is ONLY logged in the event of a short (0 ohms) or an open (infinite resistance) and is Not logged for erratic behavior.

You need to check your power steering fluid, if it's low it will kept the fan from coming on,
I know it sounds funny but it's true!!!