Driver's door power window starts to o down and then stops, or window goes down and does not come back up unless you let it stay open for a period of time.

Sounds like you have a bad window motor circuit breaker... Does that happen just with that window ? Do the other window stop working for that period of time also?

There is a rubber boot that goes from the body to the door. Inside that boot there are the wires for speakers locks windows, etc. If the power window wire is pinched or partially cut then that would be your fix. Your Main window switch that can control all the windows from the driver's seat is that hub for all the power that goes to each other door and window as far as power windows is concerned. Not sure as to why both front doors would have to be opened to open the front windows. If both doors are having a problem then you may have a problem inside the wiring boot in between the body and each door so check both. This is a common problem with a lot of vehicles with power windows. Good Luck.

Look under the hood fuse no. 12 should be for power windows. Or maybe something like a bad ground wire in drivers door harness.

I've had something like this happen a couple of times.

The cure in both instances (and probably will be in yours) is the 'recalibration' of the window lift system.

It IS in the user handbook, but here is the procedure anyway.


1 Ensure the tail door is closed, the vehicle unlocked and the alarm disarmed.
2 On 3 door models, ensure the roof is on (hard back) or lowered and secured (soft back).
3 With the ignition on, use the console switch, or the vehicle key in the tail door lock, to raise the window until the
motor stalls with the window fully closed.

(the holding the switch on until the motor 'stalls' is the key thing - you MUST allow the motor to stall)

4 Switch off the ignition.

If the calibration procedure is unsuccessful, the CCU will sound a warning for approximately 0.8 second and fully lower
the window.
Tail door window calibration can fail for the following reasons:
l Window stops before minimum travel is achieved.
l Window does not achieve a stall.
l Window request removed before stall is achieved.
l Tail door opened while driving window up.

need to remove the door panel and check the tracks or for debris in track

Reads like it is a problem for an auto electrician or someone with access to the vehicles wiring diagram - presumably at some point two circuits are crossing. More likely if it is a modern car, it maybe a bit of computerised hardware that needs a fix or replacement.

Not a car expert but have a lot of experience working on my cars over 30 years.

Just a few suggestions---if rear only and vehicle has safety child locks on rear doors (a slide bar down under back edge) that will stop windows in rear from opening no matter what control is used.

Another common issue I have had is the master button panel on driver door can fail partly--power goes there and then to rear windows---can be tested but usually have to replace entire button unit to know.

A relay is remotely possible but not likely unless they are in the door and two went bad.

Most vehicles I have seen have only one fuse or power source for all four or more windows.

Again, not a expert in this area but saw this and figured some advice is better than no advise.

The child lock feature for rear doors usually disables the windows as well and is easy to miss.

check the wires in the drivers door loom probably has shorted out inside the flex tube. most likely overlooked problem everyone says it`s the motor or regulator, when the most overlooked part is the wires

there is a module that drives the regulator power window assembly.
the module(express widow module) is probably at fault.
if the module does not register that the window is all the way down,it will not allow the window to go up.

When you open the drivers door you can see a wiring harness between the door and the body of the car.
You more than likely have wires broken in there.