How to rebuild an autolite 1100 carburetor for a Ford Mustang 1966 6 strait cylinder 200 engine size. I need a repair kit.

1966 Mustang Specifications

the idle mixture screw is not working because the unit has been assembled incorrectly and fuel is getting past all the relevant circuits
could be gaskets put in wrong
could be valves in the wrong way
could be float level too high
There are workshop manuals dedicated to the repair, assembly and diagnosis of the unit with photos of procedures

loosen the screws on the side of the choke (do this when the engine is cold) and rotate the housing in the direction so that the plate closes-don't crank it too tight, just enough so that it is lightly closed. When you start it, as it warms up and you blip the throttle, the tension from the bimetal spring that closes the choke will lessen, and it'll end up streight-up when the car is warmed up.

The engine is a 200 CID straight six, the firing order is 153624...



Just pop the distributor cap and have someone crank the engine while you watch the rotor.

How I can determine which hole in the distributor is assigned to the #1 plug wire.
Pull the number one plug. Turn the engine over slowly (with a wrench) while holding your finger over the plug hole. When the air builds (a lot of) pressure you are coming up to the number one spot on the distributor. (the rotor will point to the location of the #1 hole in the distributor.)

Quick methods to disable the engine I have seen people do on the classics:
Close the points by loosening the set screw
Pull the rotor cap
Connect a wire from the coil to ground. (effectively closes the points. Can damage the coil if key is left on.)
Pull the main ignition wire
And there are some tricks at the starter solonoid involving the ballast resistor bypass that is used to provide a hotter spark while cranking. (Two little wires at the starter solonoid - one is crank the other is the ballast bypass.)

Might give those a look-see. Best of luck (rememeber rated this help).

Well no computer (Thats a relief) fuel or spark someone getting there a little late. Do a visual inspection of wires, plugs,rotor cap ( if applicable, )points and gaps. Anything that lookjs worn replace. if that doesn't work then do a cylinder balance test just to make sure there are no vacuum leaks. Then take it to a place that does scope testing and they will be able to tell you which one of the wire or plugs is delaying on you.

one thing to be aware of is that the 200 and the 250 engines are a bit diferent the 200 has a 3 bolt water pump and the 250 a 4 bolt now having said that yes they are of different lenghts and have trouble fitting the 250 in also if you do go fore the V 8 option then you will need to mod a lot, mounts , crossbars , exhaust mounting , diff , and most of all BRAKES go faster needs stop faster brakes a big job when you consider all that, love ford, just a thought

Hi,
You can remove that center bolt easily with an impact gun. It has normal threads on it. An impact gun will prove to be an affordable tool that you will use again. You can get an electric one from Harbor Freight. They make the job of removing tough bolts much easier. If the engine is in the car, you might not have enough room. You can use a ratchet and if the engine is turning, you can hold the pulley with another tool sold at Harbor Freight called a rubber strap wrench.

faxonautoliterature lists the originalFord service manual for your car for $69 or a reprint for $44. This manual will have everything you need. I have dealt with them before and had excellent service even though I live in Canada. Hope this helps.

The OEM carb on this model was Motorcraft, and you can get the rebuild kit from Ford or you can look up the model number either in Chilton's manual for that car, or maybe find another (kinda hard nowadays) carb in a junkyard and maybe it still has the tag. You can also research the specs for that motor on a web page of Ford or 2nd party auto parts dealers. I'd bet most mechanics over 40 years old could start you off in the right direction, too.

Try tightening your spool bolt. Take off the spring cap, tighten the adjusting nut till it is snug, then back it off no more than a 1/4 turn. Hopefully this will help. If you need a diagram, let me know. I have a shop manual that shows all..