Get the schematic for your car from a toyota dealer; they can email or, they will print it out for you at the dealer part desk for free.
the usual wiring is: "Bat"=thick wire with eye connector to alternator stud (a nut holds it on) Grn=ground, yel=ignition, blk/wht=gauge
you have the ignition wire in the wrong place, no ground and, are back-feeding the gauge with ignition. Your splice created a circuit by creating a chasis ground; that why it seemed weird (gauges on)
a fusible link is a smaller piece of insulated wire in the middle of a larger wire; it is located at the battery or, the starter in most cars.
It does not sound like you have damaged one as you still have power at the wire ends. The schematic will show you where the guage wire should correctly go on the fusebox as; the previous owner jerry-rigged it.
Hope this helps; let me know; JG
It should be the yellow wire; my schematic says so but, when people start just jerry-rigging: who knows? Remove all "added" wire; I'll wait for your pics.
JG
What a mess!
Ok the previous owner powered the alternator using an auxuilary area of the fuse box; inserting an inline fuse because he probably burned out the fuse block area of your fuse box where the wire should have gone.
The blk/grn/yel wires are correct these feed the alternator field coil, rotor and, diode pack. Find your ignition + (positive) coil wire and, power it; it must be hot only in run; find your start wire; it goes to the key start position on your ignition switch through the fuse box from the battery feed to the fuse box ; make sure it is powered only when the key is in start next, insure that the starter solenoid relay "clicks" conecting the battery power to the starter when you turn the key to start position. it works like this: turn key to start: wire to starter solenoid hot: starter cranks; key returns to run; positive side of coil hot, negative side of coil (ground) shows continiuity (good from coil negative side to frame of car or, engine ground) engine running.
your alternator feeds Battery as it is turned by the engine fan belt ( AC made into DC volts by: the diode pack inside of the alternator)
My schematic uses: white= bat, yellow = "L" & black/yellow = ignition so;
Go to your local autoparts store and, they can tell you where the wires go as; my schematics are too new. (they only go back to 1992)
glad I could help
JG
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24 Way F Micro-Pack 100 Series (GRY)
Pin
Wire Color
Circuit No.
Function
A1
PPL
1952
RH Front Tweeter Output -
A2
LT GRN
1852
RH Front Tweeter Output +
A3
BLK
1856
LH Front Tweeter Output +
A4
YEL
1956
LH Front Tweeter Output -
A5
DK BLU/WHT
346
Rear Shelf Subwoofer Coil 1 Output +
A6
LT GRN/BLK
1794
Rear Shelf Subwoofer Coil 1 Output -
A7
YEL
1860
Center I/P Midrange Output +
A8
LT BLU
1960
Center I/P Midrange Output -
A9
DK GRN
1795
Rear Shelf Subwoofer Coil 2 Output +
A10
LT BLU/BLK
315
Rear Shelf Subwoofer Coil 2 Output -
A11-A12
--
--
Not Used
B1
DK GRN/WHT
368
Right CD Changer Input
B2
BLK/WHT
372
CD Changer Common
B3
BRN/WHT
367
Left CD Changer Input
B4
LT GRN
1948
Right Audio Input -
B5
LT GRN/BLK
512
Right Audio Input +
B6
DK GRN
1947
Left Audio Input -
B7
TAN
511
Left Audio Input +
B8
DK BLU/WHT
653
Chime Input/Return
B9
PPL/WHT
652
Chime Input +
B10
--
--
Not Used
B11
PPL
1807
Class 2 Serial Data Line
B12
PPL
1807
Class 2 Serial Data Line
Radio Amplifier (UX8) C3
Connector Part Information
?€¢
12064749
?€¢
2 Way F Metri-Pack 480 Series (BLK)
Pin
Wire Color
Circuit No.
Function
A
BLK/WHT
651
Ground
B
RED
1242
Battery Positive Voltage (B+)
Check
578 views
Usually answered in minutes!
Thank you, very much. You said the yellow wire is the ignition. I thought it might be a fusible link due to the fact the only time I get power to the ignition is when I add a wire that runs directly from the yellow wire to the battery. I spliced it in were the other guy had a wire nut for the jerry rigged splice from the yellow wire to the fuse box. (so there are three wire spiced there for it to work.)...any thoughts? When I get home in a couple hours I will take some photos and post them so it makes a little more since.
The green connector and the yellow wire are normal, The yellow wire runs to the back of the alternator but as you can see this guy spliced the red wire and ran it to the fuse panel. If I add another wire to this nut and run it to the battery, the ignition is hot and always on. I can then crank the motor.
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You can see the larger red wire with the electrical tape. This is were it runs into the fuse panel, and the connection to the fuse panel is good. #9 to be exact, and there is a 10amp fuse in it.
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This is a picture of the old alternator. There is a F, E and N. I need to also make sure (and i think i did it right but im not sure) that I connected the Yellow, Green and BLK/WHT wires to the correct corresponding letters.
I Truly appreciate all your help. I am anxiously awaiting your response. Thanks Again!
Thank you, I was able to get the ignition fixed. Works great, but now I have another problem. I do not think the new alternator is charging. I had the truck running and I pulled the positive side of the batter off and the truck died. I think it might be because I hooked the Green, Yellow, WHT/BLK wires to the wrong corresponding letter on the back of the alternator. What color goes to what letter on the green plug? I have a F, E and a N.
Thank you very much.
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