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Re: Can regular mechanic replace brakes on Honda Touring...
Yes you can, all you need to do is a normal brake service. The run flat tires are nothing special for your task. You remove the wheels as would any other vehicle.
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1. Check to ensure the tyre pressures in both front tires are identical and also that the pressures in both the rear tyres are identical. (You should be running over 32 psi in the tires in that vehicle.) This will not correct the problem but do it anyway .
2. Have the brakes checked on all 4 wheels to ensure there is no binding of the brake pads on brake rotors(discs) when the brake pedal is released. If , for example, the front brake pads on one side are not fully releasing their grip on the brake rotor when you remove your foot from the brake pedal, the car will tend to drift off centre when driving and especially when you lift off the power.
3. There are suspension and steering issues to check but I cannot offer comment without inspecting the car.
i just looked for this and the proper thing no one states is which model you have. on the touring it requires you to use the sel/reset on the steering wheel. not the turn knob on the cluster. use that on touring models.
2005 Honda Odyssey TOURING models originally came with Michelin PAX run-flats and eliminated the traditional dough-nut spare. If your van no longer has run-flats (look at the tire size) then your van has already been De-PAX'd...count your lucky stars because PAX tires run about 300 a tire plus!!! If you have been De-PAX'd then you will need a donut spare (T135/80D17) this goes into the spare tire space located behind the 3rd row of seats. this Site has everything you will need for the spare http://www.hondapartworld.com/1534_SPARE-SHJ
It's a maintenance reminder for:
B=replace engine oil and filter/check brake system/check fluid/look car over
1=rotate tires
Honda call this a 7,500k service. it's about $100.
if it was me, i'll just get a oil change and ask them to top off my fluid about $24
rotate tires if need about $20 and ask them to peek at the brake during rotation.
The reason any cruise control will not stay engaged is cause by 2 things.
1. Brake light switch. Check to see if your brake lights are coming on when your driving.... i.e have some one follow you while driving without the brake on.
or
2. Loss of speed sensor data to the control module. The speed sensor on an automatic transission car is located on somewhere the drive train / shaft. On a vehicle with a standard transmission the engine tach signal is used. (also unsed on automatic w/Over drive) If you do not see a tach reading on the instrument cluster I would suspect a tach sensor problem.
Troubleshooting needs to be in these 2 areas. As far as a source for schematics. Clymer and Haynes are 2 of many after market repair manuals.
I can’t be much help on this one (too new for my experience), but your manual will say this (which probably isn’t all that helpful either). The vehicle stability assist (VSA) system helps to stabilize the vehicle during cornering if the vehicle turns more or less than desired. It also assists you in maintaining traction while accelerating on loose or slippery road surfaces. It does this by regulating the engine’s output and by selectively applying the brakes. When VSA activates, you may notice that the engine does not respond to the accelerator in the same way it does at other times. There may also be some noise from the VSA hydraulic system. You will also see the VSA activation indicator blink. The VSA system cannot enhance the vehicle’s driving stability in all situations and does not control your vehicle’s entire braking system. It is still your responsibility to drive and corner at reasonable speeds and to leave a sufficient margin of safety. On touring models you will also see a ‘‘CHECK VSA SYSTEM’’ message on the multiinformation display if there is a problem with the VSA system. Without VSA, your vehicle still has normal braking and cornering ability, but it does not have VSA traction and stability enhancement. The VSA system automatically turns on every time you start the engine, even if you turned it off the last time you drove the vehicle. I’d get on the Honda people about the problem, especially since you just got the car. I would think that the alarming sounds you are hearing have to do with the unit working the brakes when it shouldn't be, but that's a guess. Hope this helps some.
Alignment: Specifications
Alignment
Wheel Alignment
Tire size:
VAN, LX, EX, EX-L models: P235/65R16 103T
EX-L Touring model: P235-710R460A 104T
Tire pressure:
Front (VAN, LX, EX, EX-L Touring models) ........................................................................................................... 230 kPa (2.3 kgf/cm2, 33 psi)
Front (EX-L model) .................................................................................................................................................. 240 kPa (2.4 kgf/cm2, 35 psi)
Rear ........................................................................................................................................................................... 240 kPa (2.4 kgf/cm2, 35 psi)
Caster angle ................................................................................................................................................................................................... 2° 32' ± 1°
Camber angle:
Front ........................................................................................................................................................................................................ 0° 00' ± 30'
(Maximum difference between the front right and left side: 0° 30')
Rear ............................................................................................................................................................................................................. -0° 30' ± 45'
The camber angle can be adjusted up to ±25' (center of tolerance) by replacing one damper pinch bolt with the adjusting bolt. The camber angle can
be adjusted up to 50' by replacing both damper pinch bolts with the adjusting bolts.
Front toe-in ............................................................................................................................................................................. 0 ± 2 mm (0 ± 1/16 inch)
Rear toe-in ......................................................................................................................................................................... 2 ± 2 mm (1/16 ± 1/16 inch)
Turning angle
Not a good idea at all! The speedo will be out, but that's the least of your worries. It will become harder to accelerate and will make the transmission and engine work harder. You will have reduced braking efficiency and more rapid wear as the brake system was not designed to deal with the higher mechanical advantage of a taller tire. The vehicle will not handle as well, besides having a taller sidewall and center of gravity, the suspensions scrub radius will change and it will make it feel twitchy to drive. Your gas mileage will suffer as the engine and trans were not designed around this tire diameter. The larger tire will have a higher rolling resistance and weigh more as well. If anything, for a snow tire, you really need a skinnier tire rather than a bigger one. Skinny tires bite the snow and ice better. If it were me, I would be looking for a 215 65 16 Same ride hieght and slightly narrower tread.
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