How to hook up the vacuum lines on a single barrel carb on a 1980 datsun 21. I bought this car and someone cut and plugged the vacuum lines on the carb and im trying to replace them but not sure where they go? does any have a diagram? or advice?
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I did a google search for "1980 ford Fairmont vacuum diagram" and got a ton of images. Bing gave me nothing. Address was too long to try and accurately copy. Go there first and use google.
Did you properly bench bleed the master cylinder itself before installing? It must be bled or there will be air trapped inside the master cylinder itself that no amount of wheel bleeding will remove.
I don't think your engine is a 22R-E as the E denotes electronic fuel ejection. For 1980 it should be just a 22R. I would not suggest slapping on another carb without expecting more work than just hooking up the original vacuum lines. Some lines you could cap off but others would need the vacuum and rerouting. There is plenty of info in the following blog on removing smog devices and extra vacuum lines here: http://www.yotatech.com/f114/de-smogging-early-22r-205845/
There are also plenty of pictures and diagrams for your engine. Making a trip to your local junkyard might find you a 22R with a carb still attached but it's slim these days. I know this question is from January but if it's too late to help you than maybe it can help some one else.
im not sure what year they started to plug off the adjuster screw put you can knock it out by cutting the edge and pushing it off then it depends what tool is needed a screw driver or a tool for carbs
Not sure which design carb you have but here's a rule that works for all carbs. Attach the vacuum advance hose to any port coming from the carb baseplate (bottom). If you don't have a free one, you can use a "T" in another line or if there's a fitting on the manifold you could use that as well. Just make sure that the line has full vacuum at idle. (check with a vacuum gauge or just put your finger over it and feel for vacuum) Since it's pretty old, it would be good to put your finger under the advance mechanism when you attach the line (running) and make sure the small rod that goes into the distributor moves when you do that. if it does not, then the advance diaphragm is bad and you will need to replace it. Use small rubber plugs to block off any unused ports. As for the fuel line. You should have a threaded inlet on the fuel bowl. The line attaches there. If you need to make a line, you can get one from any parts house, cut it to length and use rubber fuel hose to join it together with the one already on the fuel pump. When running new line, keep it away from exhaust manifolds, belts and pulleys. Best to put an in-line filter in the hose....that will keep the carb clean. If it's a four barrel (doubtful for that engine) you would need a fuel rail that joins both carb inlets to the single line from the pump. If you have a problem understanding this, just ask and I'll clarify it for you.
you are not going to find a vacuum diagram for a holley. the line on rt side of carb is ported vacuum for distibutor advance. and the lower bigger port is for pcv valve.
Timing should advance when accelerated. You have the vac on the distributor hooked to manifold vacuum. It needs to be on ported vacuum. And your base timing could be higher. I would set it at ten degrees.
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