I have a 1994 1.8 eclipse and have put a new clutch in and there is no air in the lines. but i keep loosing the clutch and the wheels are spining when the clutch is pressed down. i bought a new slave, master cylinder but have not put them in yet. do you think that is the problem.

how much was taken off flywheel ? was there a shim between crank and flywheel ? did you make sure spline count on clutch plate matched spline count and diameter on input shaft to transmission

did you put clutch plate in facing correct direction

As long as you keep filling the master cyl as you drain the lines, you should not get air in the system. Using two people to perform the job would be easier, one at each wheel and one to watch the master cyl.

Yes all 92-95 civics have a hydraulic clutch system. it starts at the pedal. Pedal pulls a plunger in the clutch master cylinder which is found bolted through the firewall under the hood on the drivers side. The master cylinders resivoir is bolted to the drivers side strut tower and connected to the master cylinder with a rubber hose. A line from the master cylinder runs along the firewall tirades the passenger side wheel then turns to the front of the car and is connected with a fitting to a rubber hose. The rubber hose runs to your clutch slave cylinder. The slave pushes the clutch arm. Your clutch pedal is staying on the floor because there is no back pressure to push it back up. You have air in your clutch system. First find out why (find leak or just top up clutch master cylinder with brake fluid if no leaks) then bleed your clutch. If your clutch line is rusted there is a coupler mid way in the line on the firewall. Will save you from removing the whole line maby. And there is no need to bench bleed the clutch master cylinder. My guess is your slave cylinder is leaking. It right on the front of the transmission. Pull back the rubber boot over the end of the slave cyl. and check for fluid leaks. The bleed screw is on top of the slave cyl. Find/fix leak, fill resivoir, pump clutch 10 times then HOLD. Open bleeder screw, watch for fluid and air sputtering out or just air. CLOSE valve, release clutch. REPEAT until clutch works keeping resivoir topped up. You may also open bleeder screw and pump clutch to get fluid into the system before you do the bleed process. Keep in mind brake fluid eats paint and is not very nice on your skin or in your eyes so be carefull with it. There may also be an off chance your pedal sticks because the clutch itself is badly broken but it's not really very likely.

did you bench bleed master cylinder before putting it on van. if not, you have air in the lines. and will need to bleed the air out of the brake cylinders at the wheels. if it was bench bled to let air out first. and you did not loose any fluid from lines.then you would be ok !! good-day !!

The easiest way that I have found to do this it to find the clutch slave cylinder, look for a release bolt or something that looks like a grease fitting, have a friend fill the clutch slave resovior with brake fluid, and loosen the release bolt. Tell them to pump a few times and then hold the clutch pedal until you see fluid shoot out then close it, repeat the process, untill there is no air in the lines

I have a 93 legacy. Subaru's always run in front wheel drive until a sensor tells the computer the front wheels are not turning the same speed as the rear wheels( spining on ice or sand etc.). At that point all wheels will be driven though a clutch to the rear wheels. This is not good if the car needs to be towed with the front wheels in the air! This "all wheel drive" can be shut down for towing. Under the hood on my 93, there is an in line fuse holder on the pass. side of car behind the front strut mount. Open the top of the holder and it will be empty, put in a fuse (10 or 20 amp or close) , this completes a circuit and shuts down the rear wheels. I don't know if the your 97 has this in the same place, but it must have one some place. hope this can help you.

There is a sleeve on the outside of the connector at the left side of the transmission. Press the sleeve down toward the transmission and hold while pulling and wiggling the line straight out. It should come out pretty easy. Remember to slip the sleeve down when you put it back on and bleed the slave cylinder to remove any trapped air.

You have a short in the ignition wires.

You will have to remove the stock steering wheel, equipped with an airbag.