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The calipers are overloading and not fully releasing the rotors. Have you changed the proportioning valve in the brake system? You may want to start there.
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
NOTE: The wheel bearings are not serviceable. If the bearings are bad, a new hub/bearing assembly must be installed.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Rear wheels
Fig. 1: Exploded view of the rear wheel hub and bearing assembly (disc brake model shown, drum is similar)
Brake drum, if equipped
Rear caliper and rotor assembly from the hub, if equipped
Hub dust cover
Raise the staked portion of the hub retaining nut with a hammer and chisel.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Hub retaining nut and discard it
Hub and bearing assembly from the spindle
Fig. 2: When installing the new hub nut, be sure to stake it into the notch on the spindle
To install:
Install or connect the following:
Bearing assembly on the spindle. Torque the new nut to 131-173 ft. lbs. (177-235 Nm)
This should be a disc brake setup in the rear, you will need a special tool to push the piston back into the caliper, they do not push in like the old style calipers, they actually have to be turned while being pushed in. You may be able to find the tool at the local parts store. Just tell them you need the tool for the rear brake calipers for your vehicle. Hope this helps
It is fairly easy. On these cars, you don't need to unbolt the caliper, or remove it. If you remove the two pins, the brake pad will just slide out. The two pins are held in by an arrangement of wire clips. You need to squeeze the wire clip, and lever it back, then pull it clear of the pin. It is difficult to explain, but quite easy to figure out. You don't need to use any tools, you should be able to remove the spring clip thing by hand.
mcdevito75 here, That is a heavy duty job even for a good, good weekend mechanic, The truth is, as you know, you can run into a dozen problems that can and will leave you haveing to tow your vehicle to the shop. First you would need the TOOLs in American and Metric sizes as both American and Metric Nuts and Bolts are included on your Mazda, Then a Hydraulic jack that can hold at least 1 corner of the Mazda off the ground and--be able to with-stand the rocking motion as you did the job, Then you"d have to be concerned with parts, suppose you get the wrong parts, suppose you find a frozen or broken part, such as a brake hose, now you would have to bleed the brake system too. It"s very smart you are willing to do your own brakes BUT EVEN WISER TO KNOW, TO MANY PROBLEMS ASSOCIATED WITH THE JOB. BEST BET, look for a sale on Brakes with-in you area, The tools, time and effort even if the job went smoothly, would cost about the same as the shop. Look for a sale, and have the shop do your brakes.
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