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Having replaced the fuel pump I am still having trouble with starting the car. When I wiggle the connection box the car has started but not today. Also the central locking is affected
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Did you check proper voltage and ground at fuel pump connector before replacing anything? Check with engine cranking. The gray wire is fuel pump voltage. The black wire is ground.
Did you check the proper fuse for voltage. Use a test light to check voltage.
Did you check for applicable trouble codes? Your obd1, you should be able to check some codes, yourself, if there are any?
Check the distributor cap and rotor.... If they look originial or if there's any moisture inside the cap, replace both of them. Make sure that if you do replace them that theres no moisture in the distributor before putting new parts in.
New pump, does it cycle when you turn the key and do you hear it? Just to get to a trouble shoot point of veiw I will assume pressure is great , just one basick area MAF is it connected and is the air duct to MAF and throttel boddy on and clamp are on good? And we will say the MAF and fuel pump are not the problem. Do this its called a wiggle test and Ford inveted it(wonder why),Go to the front of the engine hood open and some one in the vehicle tell them just to put the Key on and dont crank,Did you hear any relays clicking and a fuel pump go on?If it didnt go to the left area do you see a wire harness its a big one wiggle the connection . Did you hear a fuel pump sound a relay clicking sound as you grab hold and wiggle the connections the moment you do start your engine.By the way there is a fule reset in the trunk see if that got triped.
Do you have a little screw driver? there is a fuel pressure test port take the cap out now be carefull when you do this crank it and at the same time press the shrader does gas come out like alotnot just a little but alot if it does then the fuel pump works now if it dribbles then your fuel pump failed,Okay if the fuel pump works the only thing that is left is the coil and ignition control module, before you decide to do the module or the coil the number on reason for it not to start is connection to the coil I see this all the time go to the coil connection and have some one crank it while you wiggle it and see if it start then.now if it still doesnt start youll just have to test for spark and if there is no spark your best solution is to replace the whole distributor why because there is a relector that has always failed even when it gives spark. and fuel because as a timed unit it gave fuel and spark at the wrong time here use the picture included in #1 wiggle connection #2 check for spark
SOUND LIKE FUEL PUMP.CHECK FUEL PUMP FUSE AND RELAY.REPLACE FUEL FILTER FIRST TO SEE IF YOU GET GOOD FUEL PRESSURE SHOULD BE 41 - 47 PSI. ALSO SCAN VECHICLE FOR ANY TROUBLE CODES.
In this situation, we start with the easy solutions which is to check each fuse in the fuse box is installed tight. Also with the engine on, wiggle each fuse and see if it affects engine in any way. If it does the fuse may not be tight in its socket. Do the same with the relays located in underer the hood in a platic box at the driver's side. Make sure they are tight in their socket and wiggle them with the engine running. Do the same for any wiriing harness connections you see. Wear gloves, no jewelry, or loose clothing when you do this. If everything is okay, then it is most likely your fuel filter. You can do fuel pressure test to verify you are getting enough pressure.
To change the fuel filter, you will either have to disconnect the fuel pump relay or the fuel pump harness to depressurize the fuel system. Under the driver side door underneath the car, you will find the fuel pump clamped to the body. Remove the mouning blots and unscrew the clips from the fuel line. Keep note of the arrow direction and replace with a new fuel pump. Thanks for using Fixya.
Update--after getting car back from 3rd shop, it ran flawlessly for about a week or ten days. Then started doing it again. I decided to do some more troubleshooting myself. While trying to track down the components of the fuel pump electrical circuit, I did quite a bit of wire wiggling at the firewall and inside behind the glove box (the location of the fuel pump relay on this car). I had a buddy turn key to "on" while listening for the fuel pump relay to click. When he did, the fuel pump ran 2-3 seconds just like its supposed to. The car started right up, and has ran since---two weeks now. My problem definitely now looks like a short in the wiring somewhere in the fuel pump circuitry. Next time it does it, I'll try to further narrow down the area of the problem. I found this one basically by accident.
Disconnect the batter. Under the hood, you should find a fuse/relay box. There you will find a Fuel Pump Relay. The back side of the box lid will have a diagram (should have) that will indicate which one is the Fuel Pump Relay. Replace the relay and try again. If the problem persists. you may need a new fuel pump. Some vehicles are equiped with a "secondary' fuel pump, usually located near the back of the engine, mounted to the frame. This one will be easier and probably cheaper to replace, vs the one in the gas tank. In my experience, even with a plugged fuel injector, an engine will still start and run, just not as smoothly. Also, check all your spark plug connections, battery connections, and starter connections. Do this with the battery disconnected. This is just a way of making sure all connections are good, in the even that is the problem. You can do this before purchasing any parts. For your battery, you can put some terminal grease on them to prevent corrosion, rust, and acid build up; a common cause for faulty connections, resulting in such issues.
I hope that this information was useful, and aids in the successful recovery of a healthy running vechile for you.
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