I had my front passenger wheel bearing replaced. replaced cv joints and the lower control arm in the rear. but the front end of my car is still shaking. so is my steering wheel. what are the posible problems

OK so it's your CV axle most likely during slow revolutions it clacks and makes noises so replace both sides to ensure transmission/engine performance stays optimal to power applied to the road. The other cause of noises in that area are due to the wheel bearings needing replaced usually and sometimes repacking the bearings instead. On your car if the axle passes through the wheel it has to ride on something to control balance and torque across the drive shaft. I would replace both front driver and passenger side wheel bearings and the CV axles on both sides please be smart people and replace parts like these in pairs/ together the reason being after you replace one side you drive a few months or less and the other side goes out almost always soon after the other I would say over 75% of the time let it be bearings/u-joints/CV axles or other crucial parts. Hope this helps please take my word and fix it right the first time and please buy the better parts not the cheapest parts out there if you want quality/ safety than buy the better or best parts never just the good or OK parts

What noise? And year and make of car?
A clicking noise on turns is a worn CV joint on the axle shafts. A grinding noise at one of the wheels could be a wheel bearing. Worn brake pads may cause squealing, screeching other high pitched noise.

sounds like lower ball joint or control arm bushings

worn CV joints "click," but only upon turning.
worn bearings "grind," with a faint metal-on-metal sound.
So, squeaking in the front end is unlikely to be a CV joint or a bearing.
Squeak could be almost any front suspension component, but here's the reason to stop
guessing what it is and jack up the car, remove the two front tires and inspect the
front suspension: it could be a bolt/nut
that is loosening - and by catching it, and tightening it, you could save yourself the cost of
replacing the missing hardware. Also, be aware that an inspecting mechanic (if your state or
county requires a safety inspection (like Pennsylvania)) will inspect all components of your car's
front suspension as a routine component of your car's safety inspection.
Also:

1-----Inspect----- Coil Spring----- Broken or Weak Coil Springs.
2-----Inspect----- Sway Bar Bushing----- Worn, Damaged, or Faulty Stabilizer Bar Bushings.
3-----Inspect----- Steering Stabilizer Bracket----- Loose or Broken Steering Stabilizer Bracket.
4-----Inspect-----lower ball joints-----Loose bolt/rubber bushing to lower control arm.
5-----Inspect-----Upper Ball Joints-----Loose bolt/missing rubber bushing.
6-----Inspect-----Connecting Rods-----(these are the rods that connect the lower control arm to the
front of the frame) Check for loose nut (on the frame side), or loose bolts (on the control arm side).

There are several components that could cause noise from the front when turning. I am assuming when you say the Front nearside you are saying the fromt left wheel is where the knocking is comming from when making a left turn. The components to be concerned about are, Wheel bearings, Ball Jionts, Tie rod Ends, CV joints and brake rotors.
Wheel Barrings:
Jack the car up under the control arm until the wheel is off the ground about 3 inches. Slide a pry bar ybder the tire and place the other hand on the top of the tire. As you lift and lowere the pry bar fell for loose movement in the tire. If there is such movement you have a bad wheel bearing.
Ball Joint:
Repeat the test above and watch the upper and lower ball joints for movement. Is there is movement replace the bad ball joint.
Tie Rod ends:
With the tire still off the ground grip the tire in the front and back and rey to move it as if your were trying to turn the tire. Watch the tie rod ends for loose movement. If they are loose replace them.
CV joint:
The Joint is housed in a rubber boot. If you can feel the joint inside the boot you can turn the tire forward and back and feel for play in the joint. If you are not able to feel the play you can loosen the clamp on the boot and push the boot out of the way. Then repeat the test.
Brake Rotors. Inspect the brakes for wear and any signs of pitting or grooves in the rotors.
You need to take this seriously because if you have a Ball joint or tie rod end break while driving, it will cause a wreck.

Loosen the lug nuts (turning counter-clockwise) to finger tight on the front wheel with the damaged CV joint. Buy, borrow or rent a CV nut socket. Some auto parts stores will sell you one for about $30 and refund your money when you return it. Because the CV nut in the center of the wheel hub is locked in place with a safety tab, it is loosened initially with a long breaker bar or a hollow pipe placed over the ratchet handle to increase the torque needed to break the nut free. Loosen to finger tightness.

2 Set safety brakes and jack up the front of the car toward the side of the damaged CV joint using at least a 2 1/2-ton jack. Both the car and the jack should be on a hard, level surface and the lifting point must be a load-bearing member on the chassis or engine cradle. Place two jack stands under the front end and slowly lower the car onto the jack stands so the car chassis is fully resting on the stands. Now, pull out the jack and move it out of the way.

3 Remove the wheel lug nuts and pull off the wheel from the hub. If it doesn't cooperate, kick the bottom of the tire sidewall with the back of your heel or the flat of your hand to dislodge it. Unscrew the center CV nut. To dislodge the male spline outboard end of the CV joint that fits into the female spline in the back of the wheel hub, take the CV nut and screw it back on three or four turns, then strike it with a hammer to partially disengage the splines.

4 Remove the ball joint stud on the lower control arm from its socket in the spindle behind the wheel hub, after you remove a locking bolt, cotter pin or other device that holds the ball joint stud that protrudes from the lower control arm. Then, wedge a pry bar (called a pickle fork) between the tie rod and sway bar. To gain greater leverage, insert the pry bar handle into a length of pipe and apply downward pressure to remove the ball joint stud from the spindle.

5 Remove the CV joint and shaft. With the lower ball joint disconnected from the wheel spindle, the hub can be moved to the side just enough to remove the outer CV joint from the spindle socket in the back of the wheel hub. Do not stretch the brake line that is attached to the wheel brake cylinder as you move the hub aside. With the outboard end of the shaft free of the wheel, pull the shaft straight out from the transmission housing. Because of the labor involved with repairing or replacing CV joints, it's more cost effective to simply replace the entire shaft assembly including the two CV joints and boots.

6 Install the new shaft and CV joint assembly. Clean the transmission seal that came off the old unit; pack it with grease and place it over the inboard spline of the new unit before inserting new shaft into transmission. Make sure splines are lined up before tapping the other end of the shaft with a hammer to seat it in its socket. Carefully insert the other end of the shaft back into the wheel hub and loosely thread on the new CV bolt that came with the assembly.

7 Reinstall the ball joint stud into the spindle by re-inserting the pry bar between the tie rod and the sway bar and leveraging down the lower control arm with the ball joint stud positioned just under the spindle hole. Then release pressure on the pry bar so the ball joint stud re-seats into the spindle. Push the wheel hub all the way onto the shaft spline to seat and torque down the CV nut tight. With a flat head screwdriver tap the lip of the new CV nut into the groove cut into the screw end. Now, re-attach the ball joint locking bolt, put the tire back, replace lug nuts and tighten. Remove the car from the jack stands and finish tightening the tire lug nuts.

General Description
The front suspension allows each wheel to compensate for changes in the road surface without affecting the opposite wheel. Each wheel independently connects to the frame with a steering knuckle, ball joint assemblies, and upper and lower control arms.
The control arms specifically allow the steering knuckles to move in a three-dimensional arc. Two tie rods connect to steering arms on the knuckles and an intermediate rod. These operate the front wheels.
The two-wheel drive vehicles have coil chassis springs. These springs are mounted between the spring housings on the frame and the lower control arms. Double, direct acting shock absorbers are inside the coil springs. The coil springs attach to the lower control arms and offer ride control.
The upper part of each shock absorber extends through the upper control arm frame bracket. This bracket has two grommets, two grommet retainers, and a nut.
A spring stabilizer shaft controls the side roll of the front suspension. This shaft is mounted in rubber bushings that are held by brackets to the frame side rails. The ends of the stabilizer shaft connect to the lower control arms with link bolts. Rubber grommets isolate these link bolts. Rubber bushings attach the upper control arm to a cross shaft. Frame brackets bolt the cross shaft.
A ball joint assembly is riveted to the outer end of the upper control arm. A rubber spring in the control arm assures that the ball seats properly in the socket. A castellated nut and a cotter pin join the steering knuckle to the upper ball joint.
The inner ends of the lower control arm have pressed-in bushings. The bolts pass through the bushings and join the arm to the frame. The lower ball joint assembly is a press fit in the lower control arm and attaches to the steering knuckle with a castellated nut and a cotter pin.
Ball socket assemblies have rubber grease seals. These seals prevent entry of moisture and dirt and damage to the bearing surfaces.
Four-wheel drive models have a front suspension that consists of the control arms, a stabilizer bar, a shock absorber, and right and left torsion bars. The torsion bars replace the conventional coil springs. The lower control arm attaches to the front end of the torsion bar. The rear end of the torsion bar mounts on an adjustable arm at the crossmember. This arm adjustment controls the vehicle trim height.
Two-wheel drive vehicles have tapered roller sheel bearings. These bearings are adjustible and need lubrication.
Four-wheel drive models and RWD Utilities have sealed front-wheel bearings. These bearings are pre-adjusted and need no lubrication.
Heat treatment may create darkened areas on the bearing assembly. This discoloration does not signal a need for replacement.
Hope this helps?

There are a few components that will cause a clunk such as yours.
Sway links and bushings, ball joint, strut mount, tie rod ends and lower control arm bushings.
If you recently purchased the car and it was checked over by a mechanic the most commonly missed item would be the control arm bushings.
I would suggest you take it to a front end specialist and have it looked over soon.
Hope this helps you.

KL

First check the lug nuts. If they are tight it might be a wheel bearing.

cv joint