HELLO remove your transmission from your truck and unplug all lines and electric wire from it and you will see your pusher plate removed all bolts on the pusher plate and remove the plate and the clutch disc also remove the flywell from the engine and get it refaced from the brake shop and also install a new clutch bearing at the same time,you will have to center your clutch disc when you will install the clutch the way to do it is you put the disc and the pusher plate togeter you install the bolt on the pusher plate snog by hand but dont tight it at this time put the centering toll trought the hole in pusher plate and the disc and center the disc and tight the bolts on the pusher plate at this time and remove the toll(if you remove the flywell those bolts have a torque on it be sure to torque the bolts at the right torque for it refer to a mecanic for it and reinstal your transmission.
SOURCE: need to replace clutch on a 94 nissan pickup i
Recommend purchasing a haynes or chilton repair manual
SOURCE: i have a 95 nissan pickup it runs fine but has no
mfoster93,
Answer these questions to determine power loss while driving:
1. Do you hear any pinging or knocking? A bent rod will cause loss of power. ( should be able to hear wihtout strain)
2. Have you changed the fuel filter/airl filter recently? A plugged (dirty) fuel filter will cause this, as well as a plugged (dirty) air filter. Change both if needed.
3. Injected? On a full tank run one can of SeaFoam in the tank - first, pull vacuum lines and run through lines for about 20 seconds (will have to put hose in can, and manually rev the engine to keep from dying). Pour rest of contents into tank (full tank) and drive.
4. If you use Pemium fuel, use up what you can (if possible) and switch to regular (or vise versa). Some vehicles don't run well, if at all with Premium fuel.
5. Upon changing fuel filter, make sure all air lines, fuel lines and vacuum lines are not kinked, or have holes in them.
6. If none of the above make a difference, start the truck and locate the MAS (mass air flow sensor) which is between the intake and the air filter. (black); lightly tap on the top of the MAS with a screwdriver handle or a wrench. If the truck stalls (hesitates, stutters) or dies, then it needs replaced. Before replacing however, go to the local parts dealer and purchase a can of MAS cleaner. It is safe for sensors and will clean the sensor inside (honey come inside like a catalytic converter).
Sometimes the MAS is dirty and the sensor isn't able to read the air intake causing it to mix the air and fuel incorrectly. This is a cheap and affective fix for the problem you're having.
If this does not work, try first options above, and this should cure the issue. If not, you may have a timing issue. If you have access to, or own a timing light, use it to determie timing placement is correct. Also, make sure that two of the spark plug wires have not been misplaced. Though it idles fine it will not make too much of a difference at idle but will while driving. I've experienced this first and, and thus I mention it.
Please let me know if you need any further assistance. Here is a tip to get you started. Check with your local parts dealer and find out what the cheapest fix is, and work your way up. 99% of the time it's the simplist components that cause the biggest issues.
Cordially,
carsandcomps
Guru, Premium Expert @ Fixya
SOURCE: how to replace starter on 95 nissan pickup truck
remove negative on battery terminal, there are two bolts that hold it in between transmission and engine (17mm), loosen it. pull it out and remove all wirings by unscrewing (10mm) just remember which goes which. then reverse procedure :)
SOURCE: clutch pedal goes to the
With cars, it's hard to say for SURE. But it's most likely the slave cylinder that has leaked. Slave cylinders are pretty cheap...under $100 for many cars. You would need to install it then bleed it at the screw of the cylinder itself. Bleeding: You would need a friend to slowly lift up the clutch pedal and push down repetitively(slowly) while you fill the brake fluid into the reservoir. During bleeding process, you should not let the reservoir go empty as it WILL let air into the system and defeats the purpose of bleeding. On the bleeder screw (located on the cylinder), you need to find a clear tubing that fits over that and capture it into a container so it doesn't spill. I say a clear tubing because that is your visual tool to see when all the bubbles have left the line during the bleeding process. You will continue the bleeding process till you see no bubbles at all. At this point, you will tighten the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder.
Now, for other (more serious and expensive) possibilities. It can be the fork fulcrum that leverages the clutch to engage and disengage. If the fork breaks, your pedal will be on the floor. I hope its not this, but it has happened to me before. Good Luck =)
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