AT OIL TEMP ... WHEN I START THE CAR COLD NO PROBLEM. WHEN I STOP AND THEN RUN AGAIN THE AT OIL TEMP BLINKS 16 TIMES.... WHY!

This is normally caused by airlocks and bad coolant circulation.

https://www.fixya.com/cars/r29872074-vehicle_cooling_system_no_heat

For the acceleration issue, check for codes, or get an auto electrician with a pro grade scan tool computer to record what happens.

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Temp.gauge really has nothing to do with the perfomance of the engine. If the car has been unused for a few hours, the engine oil etc settles down. It is good idea to let it run after a cold start so the oil circulates in the engine. Keep in mind it's a 1996 model and needs more care. Keep servicing regularly.

You mean PCM most states read the readiness monitors depending on the state on how many they allow not to be completed. The first one on the list that is hard to get run and pass is the EVAP Because this requires the car to be cold and fuel tank must between 15%-85% and both air temp and coolant temp with in 10 degrees of each other. Start car let idle for 5 -10 minutes Then drive car normally no hard accelerations or quick stops bring speed to 50-60 mph and coast down to 20-15 mph without brake pedal input repeat this twice.Then bring speed to 58-62 mph and set cruise control run for 12-16 miles exit freeway caught a red light or stop and idle 2 minutes shut car off rest for 5 minutes and repeat freeway drive. then redo morning cold start again . then have some one test the generic readiness monitors to what needs to run and attempt again. California before 2000 1 can be incomplete after 2000 all have to be completed which is hard some will not run for 800 miles.

Has coolant level been going down in return reservoir at all, as in have you had to add coolant recently to bring it up to top level? Have you tried running engine from cold, with heater on and let it run up to normal temperature with cap off return reservoir? If not do so, and watch level in reservoir and if it goes down, add as needed until engine running at normal, and not overheating. Allow rad fan to kick on & off a few times before re-installing cap on reservoir. Pay close attention to engine temp while doing this. If it goes high, shut it off and let cool. Be careful, my son's Passat just had overheat problem and turned out to be impeller on water pump ( internally) was spinning on shaft of pump. Thermostat is certainly a consideration if coolant is full, and all air bled out. Keep me posted on what happens when you run with cap off and keep reservoir full. Don't forget, heater on while doing this.

Does my work look like car stuff ?

Hi,

The overheating and lack of cabin heat both point to a failed engine thermostat which would be stuck closed. At the warm up stage, the coolant stays in the engine block to bring the engine to efficient operating temperature, then it opens and circulates the coolant through the radiator and heat core. If the thermostat is stuck closed, the engine will overheat, and coolant will never reach the heater core, and you will not get cabin heat.

Blinking oil light at idle which goes away during driving could be a low oil level, but may also be a drop in oil pressue. You could have a clogged oil fliter (at best) pickup tube, or a failing oil pump.

The thing to do is to remove the oil pressure sender and put a mechanical oil pressure gauge onto the fitting. Start the car (if it will start) and watch the mechanical gauge. If there is no oil pressure or very low oil pressure (less than 5 psi minimum), immediately stop the engine. Engine damage is sure to result with oil pressure that low. The cause of the low pressure will have to be diagnosed and corrected before running the engine again. Causes of low pressure could be worn engine bearings or a worn out oil pump. There could also be a restriction in the oil system such as a clogged filter or clogged oil pump pick up screen in the oil pan. The oil itself, if it is dirty and full of moisture will become like mayonnaise in the bottom of the pan at such cold temperatures and the oil pump will not be able to pick it up.

I know this won't be easy to do in -20 degree weather. But your car should be towed home or to a shop and not run again until this oil pressure check can be done. I'm hoping damage has not already occurred.

Sir,
This might now be of Humidity as what I can Tell is that you Coolent is not working you need to get its House pipe checked whether it blocked or not. and another thing check it engine Oil if it less or in Bad condition

the first suspect is the igniton switch. when this happens, take the ign key and just barlely turn it, either way, not enough to go off/on just a little tweak, it the lights come back on or flicker, that ign switch will need replacement.

Its sounds like your engine wormed-up.