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The only adjustment is free play at the pedal, the clutch release is hydraulic and is self adjusting. If the engagement is getting low on the pedal, it usually means the clutch is wearing out. It is possible that the hydraulics are leaking, inspect the slave, master and hose.
Your pedal height may be adjustable by a stopper bolt at top of pedal. You would have to check the specification for your car. Most important that the pedal has about a half inch free travel before clutch begins to engage. You need that free play to ensure the release bearing (the throw-out bearing) is not touching the fingers on the pressure plate when not engaged. If it always is touching, it will be rolling around constantly and will go out prematurely. Your new clutch will allow gear engagement sooner as the clutch pedal is released. I mean gears will engage just as pedal is lifting off from floor. You should notice that difference-the old clutch would have taken longer pedal travel from floor before releasing.
Clutch plate and pressure plate seem to be too weak to pull the car. To test the clutch plate, park the car on flat surface. Pull the hand brake up, start the car, depress the foot brake pedal, depress the clutch pedal, put the car in 1st gear, press the gas pedal and leave the clutch pedal at once, while keeping the brake pedal depressed.
Follow one of the two following statements:
1. Engine does not shut down and remain start. (Clutch plate, pressure plate and clutch bearing defective - Replace all as a set)
2. Engine shuts down. (Clutch system is OK and does not require any repair).
Idle is normally set a bit higher anyway for a cold engine. If the warm idle is OK when the clutch is not engaged and gearbox in neutral, then it points to some kind of severe friction in the area of the clutch throw-out bearing, which may be seizing up, or the clutch pressure plate fingers, one of which may be broken off. If the idle is the same, then that simply needs adjusting.
Is there any odd noise when the clutch is depressed, like a low growl? That will be the bearing. You could have someone listen next to the clutch bell housing while you work the clutch pedal, to try to localise it.
I assume it is a cable operated clutch. If so the adjustment is tightened so that there is about 1/2 to 1" of pedal travel to clutch operation, provided the gears can be selected smoothly.
The 1991 model was not hydraulic. There is a cable extending from the clutch pedal to the bell housing on the passenger side of the engine compartment. There is a plastic adjusting nut where the cable enters the bell housing. Turning the nut to the right tightens the cable and reduces the amount of travel required to disengage the clutch.
i have just replaced an 03 civic ex clutch and transmission bearings due to a customer being too harsh on it. It sounds like its got a little life left in it if you are easy on it.
if there is adjustment in this model use the below walkthrough to adjust it.
adjust the clutch pedal,
1. if you look up on the top of the clutch pedal, the first thing you should see if a clutch pedal position switch, and right behind it there is a locknut, looens the locknut. once you loosen it, back off on the pedal position switch or adjusting bolt untill it no longer touches the clutch pedal.
2. now behind the clutch pedal, there is a pushrod. and on that pushrod, there is a locknut, loosen that locknut. Now turn the pushrod in or out to get the desired height and stroke at the clutch pedal.
The freeplay is the amount of push on the clutch pedal to where is starts to have resistance from the top. I have usually been told it should be set at 1 1/2-2 inches of freeplay.
Once you set it, tighten the locknut on the pushrod. With the clutch pedal released, turn in the clutch pedal position switch untill it contacts the clutch pedal. then turn it an additional 3/4 to 1 turn. And tighten the locknut.
Now on top of the clutch pedal switch, there is a clutch interlock switch. Loosen the locknut on that switch. then press the clutch pedal to the floor.
release the clutch pedal 15-20 mm (0.59-0.79 in) from the fully pressed position, and hold it there. adjust the position of the clutch interlock switch so the engine will start with the clutch pedal in this position. then tighten the locknut on that switch.
It is not a clutch slave cyl. or clutch master cyl. problem, first check battery and and cables to rule them out if good check to see with test lamp if you have power to start switch at pedal cluster, [key in crank position] If you have power then check with test lamp, [key in crank position and clutch in] for power at starter solonoid, if no power replace switch at clutch pedal if you have power to the starter then you have a bad starter.
you have civic SI type R with the K20A engine and 6sp transmission? correct?
yes the clutch is adjustable.
loosen the clutch pedal position switch(lower of the 2 switches) locknut and back off the clutch pedal position switch.
loosen the clutch push-rod locknut and turn the push-rod in or out to get the desired height and stroke of the pedal.
tighten the push-rod locknut
with the clutch pedal released, turn the clutch pedal position switch in until it contacts the clutch pedal.
turn the clutch pedal position switch in an additional 3/4 to 1 turn.
tighten the clutch pedal position switch locknut.
loosen the clutch interlock switch(the upper switch) locknut and then the interlock switch.
press the clutch pedal to the floor.
release the pedal about 1/2 in. from the fully depressed position, and hold it there. adjust the position of the interlock switch so that the engine will start with the clutch pedal in this position.
tighten the interlock switch locknut.
clutch pedal stroke should be: 5.1 - 5.5 in clutch pedal height should be: 7.76 in
if adjusting the clutch doesn't help with the transmission feeling notchy, may be the syncros.
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