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Re: Handling issues seems like the wheels are not in sync
You may need a wheel alingment, your front brake disks may need a machine, your wheels could be out of ballance or buckled etc.. unfortunately these are not realy diy things so a mechanic will be needed
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This may be a problem with the ribbon contact under the steering wheel know as the "clockspring drum" It can also be the switch. Before doing any work make darn sure you disarm the Airbag system, it can go off and badly injure you.
Have the codes checked. There are to many possibilities for your car to list. Repost with the codes. Kind of problems it creates is lost power and handling.
Diagnosis: The first step in repairing the steering system is to diagnose the problem. This may involve a visual inspection of the steering components, a road test to check for handling issues, or the use of diagnostic tools to identify any faults in the steering system.
Replacement of worn or damaged components: If any components of the steering system are worn or damaged, they will need to be replaced. This may include parts such as the steering rack, tie rods, ball joints, or steering column.
Alignment: After replacing any worn or damaged components, it's important to perform a wheel alignment to ensure the steering system is properly calibrated. This will help to prevent any uneven tire wear or handling issues.
Rather than going to taller 13" tires, I highly recommend going to lower profile 14" tires and allow wheels. Taller 13" tires would make the handling really squishy and soft. The stiffer tires will improve handling, and the lighterweight wheels could improve economy slightly, espcially with some quality road tires (no aggressive tread snow tires, that will drop economy).
I also support the 14" wheels w/ 185/60 tires. but, if you really want to try bigger tires to keep hwy RPMs down, i would try 15" wheels with lower profile tires. that way you don't sacrifice handling for hwy RPMs. i used to run 185/80R13 and just got a slight bit of rub on full steering lock so i just looked at a comparable 15" tire--looks like 195/60R15 would be pretty close.
The only other thing i would suggest is swapping the trans and diffs with the old 3.73 final gear ratio trans/diffs of the '83/'84s. i drove one for a day and the RPMs at hwy speeds were around 2500-2600. some folks find these old transmissions sluggish on acceleration but i honestly didn't even notice a difference. i rarely drive fast though. anyway, i don't think i would do it because what with your trans having such low miles on it, it seems like it would be a waste to swap it out. if you can do it relatively easily, it might be worth it as an experiment i suppose.
Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.
One possibility is the steering box, there is a gear in there called a bull gear. It could be worn or even missing some teeth causing the steering wheel to be out of sync. This may not seem like a big deal, but if this is the problem it needs to be fixed immediately.
A particular camber measurement is critical to cornering. If it doesn't seem like you are experiencing any handling issues, than you should be fine. Have the vehicle aligned every 6 months and while they are doing that they will inspect the suspension. This should give you better piece of mind.
Hi! have you physically removed the wheel? if not then a good inspection off the vehicle may help. Check the circumference of the tyre for a tack/nail then look around the inside of the wheel for signs of chaffing or rubbing.
Maybe your Discs are showing too much corrosion around the edge and just touching the caliper, a scrape with a decent file would cure it.
Cheer's
Paul 'W'
Onyer~EDson(:0)~[><
look, i made some research, the standard wheel size of your car is: 14" maybe one of the wheels is larger or smaller than that size. you better check it out. good luck, boy.
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