Question about Ford F-250 Super Duty

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Need to change uppers and lowers. Hub will not budge. Is there a puller to remove or trick? If there is a puller, need tool number. And make.

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I assume you are talking about ball joints. The factory ball joints are held in place with rivets. They need to be chiseled or ground off. Then you will probably need a ball joint splitter. They are a cheap tool and common. You simply place the ball joint splitter over the ball and hammer the end to separate the joint. Your new ones will bolt in. I hope this was helpful and what you were refering to.

Need to change uppers and - d2e631a.jpg

Posted on Feb 16, 2010

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Need to replace 2003 corola front wheel bearings. need step by step instruction please


Removal & Installation To Remove:
toy_car_cor-02-04wheelhub1.gif

  1. Remove the front wheel.
  2. Remove the front axle hub nut.
  3. Disconnect the front stabilizer link from the strut.
  4. Disconnect the speed sensor (with ABS).
  5. Remove the front brake caliper and rotor.
  6. Disconnect the tie rod end.
  7. Remove mounting bolts and nut and separate the lower control arm from the ball joint.
  8. Using a plastic hammer separate the front axle shaft from the hub.
  9. Remove the 2 mounting bolts from the strut. Remove the knuckle and hub assembly.
  10. Remove the lower ball joint from the knuckle.
  11. Remove the axle hub snap ring from the knuckle. toy_car_cor-02-04wheelhub2.gif

  12. Remove the axle hub from the hub bearing using special tool 09520-00031 or equivalent hub puller.
  13. Remove the inner race from the axle hub using special tool 09950-40011 or equivalent puller.
  14. Remove the dust shield from the knuckle.
  15. Remove the axle hub bearing from the knuckle using special tool 09520-00031 or equivalent and a press.
To Install:
  1. Install the axle hub bearing on the knuckle using special tool 09950-600020 or equivalent and a press.
  2. Install the dust shield on the knuckle with 3 mounting bolts.
    • Tighten 73 in-lb (90 Nm).
  3. Install the axle hub on the knuckle using special tool 09950-600010 or equivalent and a press.
  4. Install the axle hub snap ring.
  5. Install the lower ball joint on the knuckle.
    • Tighten the ball stud castle nut 76 ft-lb (103 Nm).
  6. Install a new cotter pin.
  7. Install the knuckle on the strut with the 2 nuts and bolts.
    • Tighten 162 ft-lb (220 Nm) (except '03-'04) 113 ft-lb (153 Nm) ('03-'04).
  8. Lift the knuckle and hub assembly over the axle shaft and into the hub splines.
  9. Install the lower control arm on the lower ball joint.
  10. Connect the tie rod end to the knuckle.
  11. Connect the stabilizer link to the strut.
  12. Install the front rotor and brake caliper to the knuckle.
    • Tighten the 2 caliper bolts 79 ft-lb (107 Nm).
  13. Install the ABS sensor if equipped.
  14. Install the front axle hub lock nut.
    • Tighten 159 ft-lb (216 Nm) and stake the lock nut.
  15. Check the axle hub backlash and run-out.
  16. Install the front wheel.
  17. Check the front wheel alignment and adjust if necessary.
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Feb 17, 2011 | Toyota Corolla Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a 2007 grand caravan front wheel drive that needs a new rear bearing hub assembly. I have removed all except the assembly and it will not budge. Is there anything I can use to remove the hub other...


CHRYSLER WARNED AGAINST NOT USING A SLIDE HAMMER PULLER UNLESS YOU ARE GOING TO REPLACE REAR HUB AND BEARING ASSEMBLY.WHEN REPLACING HUB AND BEARING ASSEMBLY THEY HAS TO BE PRESSED OUT.

Sep 21, 2010 | 2007 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT Minivan

1 Answer

How to remove rear bearing hub


The bearing is already shot so disregard what you hear about loosening the hub nut before you jack the car up. If you are doing this in your backyard it is VERY important to jack and support the car properly....you won't be able to use the parking brake because you'll be taking the disc/hat off. So work smart and safe.----Remove hub cap. :---Spray PB Blaster or another good rust killer in the hub, and all the nuts you will be removing. That means the pinch bolts for the toe link and the upper ball joint, plus the nut. Also the nut on the bolt of the lower arm. --Break the lug nuts AND 36mm hub nut a 1/4 turn.--Jack up the car and support. Remove lug nuts, then tire.----Remove brake caliper and support it to prevent damage to hose....I hung mine from the coil spring...The metal brake line fit in between the coils very nicely.----Remove disc/hat.----Remove the 36mm hub nut (you need buy a new one...really) -----Use a hub puller to press the axle shaft in through the hub, just a little bit...to break the rust. JUST A LITTLE! YOU ARE JUST BREAKING THE RUST SO IT WILL COME APART EASIER LATER. Spray it again and move on. Remove puller for now. -----Remove the springs, and retainers from the parking brake and remove the parking brake shoes.----Remove the parking brake levers coming through the rubber bushing .----Remove the Nut and Pinch Bolt from the Upper Ball Joint (at 12 o'clock) MAKE SURE YOU PUT THIS SAME BOLT BACK IN WITH A NEW NUT. THIS BOLT IS A LITTLE LONGER THAN THE TOE LINK BOLT!----Note: The pinch arms are just a term for the design....the bolt goes through a split....when the bolt is tightened, it clamps on the part that is meant to be held. Separate carefully....don't damage boot. I actually drove a stubby screw driver through the pinch arms of the knuckle to free it.

Remove the Nut and Pinch Bolt from the Toe Link (at 7 o'clock)

Separate carefully....don't damage boot. I actually drove a stubby screw driver through the pinch arms of the knuckle to free it.

Support lower arm (I used a cinder block)

Remove nut and bolt through lower arm (at 6 o'clock)

The only thing holding you back now should be getting the hub / knuckle assembly off the axle shaft.

Attach your puller again to the hub and as you tighten it the hub / knuckle assembly should start coming off the axle shaft pretty easily....if it doesn't, spray it.

The hub must be pressed out of the bearing
The bearing must be pressed out of the knuckle.

The new bearing must be pressed into the knuckle.
The NEW hub must be pressed into the bearing.

I don't have a press and had a local machine shop do this part for $50.00

I didn't have all tools and had to buy a few.

24" breaker bar $20
36mm hub socket $17
Universal Hub Puller $ 21....AutoZone will buy back but I will keep
The other tools are just a couple of sockets and wrenches....I think 18mm.
A ball joint splitter....PB Blaster (I swear by this stuff)

You SHOULD replace the HUB and bearing. I got the hub and bearing at AutoZone for $121.....tools cost $58...Machine Shop was $50.

Total cost was about $230.....dealer wanted $750.
This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya

Mar 18, 2010 | 2004 Ford Explorer

1 Answer

How to replace lower left front ball joint ?


Removal & Installation NOTE This procedure requires the use of the following special tools: J 9519-E Lower Ball Joint Remover and Installer, J 34874 Booster Seal Remover/Installer, J 41435 Ball Joint Installer, J 45105-1 Ball Joint Flaring Adapter and J 45105-2 Receiver.

  1. On 4WD vehicles, remove the wheel center cap and drive axle nut.
  2. Raise and support the vehicle.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Tire and wheel
    • Wheel hub and bearing, if necessary
    • Outer tie rod retaining nut
    • Out tie rod from the steering knuckle using a suitable puller
    • Brake hose bracket retaining bolts and bracket
    • Upper control arm-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt and nut
    • Upper control arm from the steering knuckle
    • Lower ball joint retaining nut
    • Steering knuckle from the lower control arm using a suitable ball joint removal tool
    • Steering knuckle from the vehicle
    • Lower ball joint flange with a chisel
  4. Install tools J 9519-E and J 34874 to the lower ball joint, then use those tools to remove the lower ball joint from the lower control arm.
To install:
  1. Install or connect the following:
    • Lower ball joint to the lower control arm, using tools J 9519-E, J 41435 and J 45105-2
  2. Remove the tools from the lower control arm.
    • Tools J 9519-E and J 45105-1 to the lower ball joint
  3. Flare the lower ball joint flange with J 9519-E and J 45105-1, then remove the tools from the lower ball joint.
    • Steering knuckle to the lower control arm
    • Lower ball joint retaining nut and tighten to 81 ft. lbs. (110 Nm)
    • Upper control arm to the steering knuckle
    • Upper control arm pinch bolt and nut and tighten to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm)
    • Brake hose bracket to the steering knuckle
    • Brake hose bracket retaining nuts and tighten to 7 ft. lbs. (10 Nm)
    • Outer tie rod to the steering knuckle
    • Outer tie rod retaining nut and tighten to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm)
    • Wheel hub and bearing, if removed
    • Tire and wheel
  4. Lower the vehicle
    • Drive axle nut, if 4WD, and tighten to 103 ft. lbs. (140 Nm)
    • Wheel center cap, if removed
  5. Check the front wheel alignment.

Nov 30, 2009 | 2002 Oldsmobile Bravada

1 Answer

I have 2001 Hyundai Sonata V6. I am trying to


Need to separate lower control arm ball joint from spindle assy, and then pull it out of the way for shaft to clear. Need a ball-joint removal tool, like tuning fork style, or proper puller/press tool.

Oct 24, 2009 | 2001 Hyundai Sonata

1 Answer

How do i get the hub of the front axle to change the ujoints. got everything off up to that. tried heat, tried backing out bolts and hitting with sledge. Is there a trick to this?


this is one difficult task my friend, and is a big job. without the propper tools this is next to impossible. you actually need to buy a puller that helps you still need to back the bolts out and hit them while keeping tension on the puller. puller is OTC 6290 for @100-130 bucks

Sep 08, 2009 | 2004 Dodge Ram 2500

1 Answer

Remove/replace shock absorber assembly 900s 1995 saab


  1. Slightly loosen hub center nut when all four wheels are on ground.
  2. Raise and support vehicle, then remove five wheel bolts and wheel.
  3. Remove hub center nut, then the wheel sensor,
  4. Press back brake piston using slip-joint pliers,
  5. Remove caliper from steering swivel member, then suspend in wheel housing with cable tie.
  6. Remove brake disc and back plate, then slightly loosen tie rod end nut.
  7. Press out tie rod end nut using puller tool or equivalent.
  8. Remove nut and tie rod end bolt, then the anti-roll bar to swinging arm nut.
  9. Remove outer ball joint nut.
  10. Press ball joint out of steering swivel member using puller tool or equivalent, installed on spring link.
  11. Remove nut and discard. This self-locking nut must not be reused.
  12. Remove three upper mounting nuts for MacPherson strut, then the strut.
  13. Clamp MacPherson strut in vice.
  14. Compress spring using spring compressor or equivalents.
  15. Hold piston rod and remove nut using MacPherson strut socket tool 89 96 662, or equivalent. This is a self-locking nut and must not be reused.
  16. Remove mounting and top spring seat, then the coil spring, gaiter and compression stop.
  17. Unscrew damper using wrench tool No. 89 96 670, or equivalent, then remove damper from strut.
  18. Reverse procedure to install, noting the following:
    1. Screw damper in place using wrench tool No. 89 96 670, or equivalent.
    2. Lower end of coil spring should abut against stop in bottom of spring cup.
    3. Position MacPherson strut on vehicle and install three retaining nuts on top mounting. Tighten nuts alternately, according to specifications.
    4. Always use new hub center nut with self-locking threads.

Jun 04, 2009 | 1995 Saab 900

1 Answer

How to replace front rotors


You'll need to take the wheel bearings off. the rotors are bolted to the hub and the bolts are located in the back of the hub thus having to remove the wheel bearings and removed the hub/rotor assy.

Apr 26, 2009 | Nissan Frontier Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Cannot get front hub assembly to come off. caliper and rotor are removed, spindle nut and cotter pin removed, still will not budge, even with a puller.


These things always stick. Here's my trick to get them off. Get 4 more bolts with the same thread, but much longer. Screw them into the holes, start the engine (DON'T TOUCH THE BRAKE PEDAL), and turn the wheel back and forth. As you get all the way to one side the longer bolts will hit the axle housing and push the hub/bearing assembly out of the knuckle. Snap on also mahes a special tool for this that does the same thing, but uses the factory bolts. There's probably 20 different ways you can rig something up that will work off the same principle. You're gonna have to get creative if you wanna drive it this week.

Apr 12, 2009 | 2004 Dodge Ram 3500 Truck

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