Question about 1992 Honda Accord

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Intermittent hesitation at steady speed.

Intermittent hesitation / loss of acceration at steady speed as the vehicle is warming-up. After it reaches normal operating temp the problem usually stops.

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  • Anonymous Mar 18, 2014

    2013 camry hesitation intermittent hesitation from stop or slow speed

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  • 23 Answers

It could be the spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, rotor in the cap, or an O2 sensor. does the check engine light come on?

Posted on Feb 08, 2010

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Hours of reading blogs; none show my symptoms: SAAB 95, 2005 Arc. Hiccup/hesitation/stumble when's engine warm to hot, any speed.


Are you talking about a go-cart, or a motorcycle, or a tractor-trailer 18 wheeler? Then OF COURSE, you must IDENTIFY the MAKE, the MODEL, and the YEAR of whatever vehicle you are asking about, if you want any REAL help!

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Intermittent stalling


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Engine hesitating at steady speed


with the engine warm, spray carb cleaner around the intake and egr valve. When you spray the leak it will change the engine speed.

Dec 16, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

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What are the symptoms of a bad throttle position sensor (TPS).


There are a number of things. The car may idle to fast or too slow. The car may have momentary hesitation (jumps/fades) when driving. Most will eventually set a Check Engine code that will point to the TPS. the hesitation one may not though. That usually occurs when you have long commutes at steady speeds. This causes excessive wear of the TPS in one area and can cause intermittent dropouts. If you suspect this, try driving at steady speed 5-10 mpg SLOWER than usual and if the problem goes away that is probably the cause.

Nov 08, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

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92 buick park ave 3.8 sudden bad hesitation loss of power


This is likely a problem with the Mass Airflow sensor, it is a sensor that reads the amount of air going into the engine, when it fails it causes severs hesitation and power loss. Contact a local parts store or your GM dealer for a rebuilt one, the part is about $150.00. It is locate in the air intake hose to the engine.

Feb 21, 2012 | 1992 Buick Park Avenue

1 Answer

My MAzda 2003 MPV ES.The evap and EGR still incomplete, need reset on the monitor- drive test; everything else passed the smog. no codes show on scanner. FEw months ago, I chage the battery, but I was told...


Here is the procedure for allowing system to run each of the separate mode tests.
EGR : Start engine and warm up completely. Make sure all electrical loads are off (A/C headlights, blower fan, and rear window defroster) Accelerate to between 49-57 mph and hold a very steady speed for 1 minute. Decelerate to a stop and turn off engine.
EVAP : Ensure Baro pressure is 21.3 inHg or higher, Intake air temp is 41-95 'F, Fuel tank level is between 25-75%, Battery voltage is 10.9-14.6 volts. Start engine and idle for more than 10 seconds then turn key to off. Leave vehicle to sit for 5 hours or more. Start engine and race to 3500 rpm to warm up completely the idle for more than 15 minutes. Accelerate and then drive vehicle at very steady speed between 40-50 mph for more than 5 minutes. Stop vehicle and turn key to off. Leave vehicle undisturbed for 20 minutes or more.
When I say steady speed in the above, try to keep dead on to a set speed to help ensure the test is run. Especially for the EGR as this is when the test will be performed and if speed/rpm is not very steady then test will not be performed. The Evap test will be ran during that final 20 minute or more sitting period (or should be anyway).

May 20, 2011 | 2002 Mazda MPV

1 Answer

At 40 klm per hr i get hesitation and at 80 if i hold steady. at 100 it runs great. no problem with hesitation if i take it up to 100 qiuckly. only if you hold it steady at lower speeds


Have the voltage checked on the TPS. If it has an open circuit which is very possible at all areas of the internal reostat it will make the vehicle run such as yours does now

Apr 28, 2010 | 1996 Dodge Caravan

1 Answer

I am having ongoing problems with the truck miss firing and rough running. Timing is ok, replaced cap and rotor,coil. It still starts rough,idles rough and misses when at cruising speed,although it seems...


Misfire is a common driveability problem that may or may not be easy to diagnose, depending on the cause. A misfiring cylinder in a four-cylinder engine is, pardon the pun, hard to miss. The loss of 25% of the engine's power output is the equivalent of a horse trying to run on three legs. The engine may shake so badly at idle that it causes vibrations that can be felt in the steering wheel and throughout the vehicle. The engine also may be hard to start and may even stall at idle, depending on the accessory load (air conditioning, headlights and electric rear defroster, for example).

When misfire occurs, performance suffers along with fuel economy, emissions and idle quality. And, when a misfiring vehicle is subjected to an emissions test, it will usually fail because of the unusually high levels of hydrocarbons (HC) in the exhaust.

What causes a cylinder to misfire? Basically, it's one of three things: loss of spark; the air/fuel mixture is too far out of balance to ignite; or loss of compression. Loss of spark includes anything that prevents coil voltage from jumping the electrode gap at the end of the spark plug. Causes include worn, fouled or damaged spark plugs, bad spark plug wires or even a cracked distributor cap. A weak coil or excessive rotor gas inside a distributor would affect all cylinders, not just a single cylinder.

"Lean misfire" can occur when the air/fuel mixture is too lean (not enough gasoline in the mixture) to burn. This can be caused by a dirty, clogged or inoperative fuel injector; air leaks; or low fuel pressure because of a weak pump, restricted filter or leaky pressure regulator. Low fuel pressure would affect all cylinders rather than an individual cylinder, as would most air leaks. A leaky EGR valve can also have the same effect as an air leak.

Loss of compression means the cylinder loses most of its air/fuel mixture before it can be ignited. The most likely causes here are a leaky (burned) exhaust valve or a blown head gasket. If two adjacent cylinders are misfiring, it's likely the head gasket between them has failed. Also, if an engine is overheating or losing coolant, it's likely the head gasket is the culprit.

Intermittent misfires are the worst kind to diagnose because the misfire comes and goes depending on engine load or operating conditions. They seem to occur for no apparent reason. The engine may only misfire and run rough when cold but then smooth out as it warms up. Or, it may start and idle fine but then misfire or hesitate when it comes under load. Also, it may run fine most of the time but suddenly misfire or cut out for no apparent reason. Intermittent misfires can be a real challenge to diagnose, so let's start with a steady misfire in one cylinder before moving on to intermittent misfires.

Hope this help.

Mar 25, 2010 | 1989 GMC Sierra

1 Answer

Intermittent hesitation at about 2200 - 2500 RPM , power loss, like a dirty fuel filter - pickup screen, tackometer ticking 100-200 rpm at a steady speed. Truck has a manual trans.


sounds like a bad fuel pump or fualty aftermarket pump/also i would check the fuel pressure regulator,and for any fuel leaks. if you disconect vacuum line from regulator and check to make sure fuel is not coming out of regulator and vacuum line is good if engine stays running most likely the fuel pump.

Mar 23, 2010 | 1994 Chevrolet C/K 2500

1 Answer

95 Ciera Hesitates & stalls when warm


Change the IAC the idle air control. You may be able to clean it and put it back on.

Jan 07, 2009 | 1995 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera

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