Stalling no codes after car sits for hours

You get a code? Could be cam position sensor, perhaps.

try your crank sensor

Well the starter won't cause the rough running or stalling problems.
You would need to know if the starter has full battery power when it will not crank without being jumped off another battery.
It could be that the battery voltage drops low enough to affect the computer memory, and after the engine starts the computer has to re-learn the settings.

Usually the problem is due to a dirty throttle body or a faulty idle air control valve. Stalling in reverse and not in drive is unusual.

Seeing as how you had a check light on,
what codes were present & did you diagnose
& repair them ?

Sounds like a bad fuel pump on the stalling or
no start

How long since a tune-up? Check fuel--spark when problem is ongoing.
I always check for codes even if the lite isn't on. Of course if the mil doesn't work that presents a problem. The procedure below for using the mil to check codes.

Hi,
Very common symptom for a bad crankshaft position sensor. There is a testing procedure for the sensor, but it can give false readings or good readings while testing with engine off and cold. Usually they fail and give erratic reading when they get hot, but then it is virtually impossible to test. Kind of a catch 22. Replacement is fairly easy. They will sometimes give you a check engine light and subsequent code, but not always. I have had 3 cars do the same thing and it was the sensor each time, so if I were you, I would replace it and see if that helps before assuming there is another ignition or emissions problem.....Did you check your computer for trouble codes? Please reply if you have any and / or if you need instruction for do-it-yourself replacement....Mike

This is a fuel system related problem.

I will advice that you replace the fuel pump and see that the rating is the recommended pressure with the former.

I hope this will help you.

Good luck.

sounds like there's too much of a load on the engine. try a complete tune-up.

Here are my theories

Idle Air Control valve (IAC) - allows a small amount of air to pass though throttle body at idle since the butterfly in the throttle body is closed at this time - if this doesn't open the vehicle will stall

Air Intake Temp Sensor - Helps correct air fuel ratio by measuring the temp of the air coming through the intake

Oxygen Sensor - Largest determinate of air/fuel ratio after the vehicle almost reaches operating temp which is approx 160 degrees

Coolant temp sensor - Largest determinate of the air/fuel ratio from cold up to the point when the oxygen sensor takes over

EGR Valve - 5.2 Liters are known for these failing, they redirect a small amount of exhaust gases back into the intake manifold for re-burning (emissions thing). Sometimes they get stuck closed and allow for too much exhaust gas back into the manifold. But usually this would cause very poor performance as well as shuddering and stalling

Use what you know about your condition and what these common fail items are and see if any of them sound like the problem