Question about 2004 Kia Sedona

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Kia Sedona Electrical fault no side lights,

Kia Sedona 2004 CRDi

Electrical fault after flat battery,

front and rear side lights,
interior courtesy lights
central locking,
heated rear window
front windows inop.


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  • 1 more comment 
  • sgwservice89 Feb 07, 2010

    Hi went through the process you discribe, heater fan relay works, so systamatically used it and its location to establish all relays OK!

    No discription on EITHER fuse box top indicates

    remote/electric door locking system fuse, This does not work with key, or manually.

    or side/tail fuse

    or power window fuse!

    I can find NO blown fuse, all other electrics work.

    A couple of strange things!

    1) horn has made a small beep on two seperatr occasions!( this happens when car doors locked with remote!)

    2) Warning light for insecure doors flashes occaisionally!

    Thanks for your time, hope you may have some more ideas for me! I will look again in the morning, need an early start to make best of the daylight.

    We have managed to drive in DAYLIGHT 300miles across France, heading for our ferry tomorrow from Zebbrugge to Hull.

    regards sgw.

  • sgwservice89 Feb 11, 2010

    Hi, made it safely to the UK. thankyou.

    Ex Kia sparky has told me it is an Electronic Timer control unit that has been spiked when boost started.

    Local Kia agent happy to check foc. than order me the part.

    Happy to be home, didn't trust our European neighbours to deal with the problem without ripping me off. They do with everything else!!!!

    Will post result next week.

    All the best sgw.

  • sgwservice89 Feb 23, 2010

    Hi Pat fault traced to ETACS unit located behind cup holders in central console.

    Not uncommon fault when vehicle slave started using a Boost charger!

    Found second hand unit on Ebay, 1/2 price of dealers, and delivered next day as against 1 week from Kia.

    Thanks for your help, regards sgw.



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  • 1,757 Answers

Do you have an Owners Manual?
Inside the Owners Manual - Look up Fuses and Relays.
During the 'flat battery', did you "jump start" the Van?
There is a great Possibility that the "jump" caused your Fuse(s) or Relay(s) to blow.
Locate the Fuses and Relays.
Also: on the Cover of the Fuse/Relay Box (on the rear inside portion) should have the location and identification of the Fuses/Relays.
If you have an Fuse or Relay named: "Accessory Fuse/Relay" that would be a great place to start. Is there any other Fuse/Relay in the Box that is the same Color/Number (Amps) (Fuses) or Type (Size/Shape) (Relay)
For Fuses: A quick way to find the problem is to Remove the Fuses using a pair of Needle Nose Pliers and look to see if the fuse is blown. The fuses' metal arc will be incomplete inside the colored plastic indicating a blown Fuse. You may have additional Spare Fuses that you can use. If not go to a auto parts store and purchase the Fuses you need. Make sure you replace the blown fuse with the same color/number (amp). Using a higher amp fuse could cause an electrical fire.
For Relays: A quick way to find the problem is to locate a same Type (Size and Shape) Relay from a known functioning Relay and switch the Suspected Blown Relay with this known functioning Relay and recheck operation. If the front and rear side lights, interior courtesy lights now work and the other known function does not, then the Relay was bad and needs to be replaced. Again there may be a Spare Relay in the Box that you can use. Most auto parts store carry Relays. Again use the same Type (size and shape).
Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information or questions. Respond in the "Add Comments" section of your Posting, and I will respond as-soon-as-possible.

Posted on Feb 07, 2010

  • 2 more comments 
  • Patrick Rayome Feb 07, 2010

    Disconnect the Battery for 30 minutes.

    Reconnect the Battery and check operation.

    This may have something to do with the Central Locking Mechanism malfunctioning.

    Disconnecting and reconnecting the Battery for 30-minutes may help to reset the systems.

    When after you reconnect, Try using the Remote Locking.

    Let me know if this worked.

    Have a safe trip!


  • Patrick Rayome Feb 11, 2010

    I'm glad you had a safe trip.

    Did you attempt the Battery Disconnect for 30-minutes? Sometimes this works, without the expense of a new ECT. I suspected that it happened when the Battery was jumped with the cable's attached. This has caused more problems with the electronics aboard these vehicles.

    Waiting to hear the outcome.



  • Patrick Rayome Feb 15, 2010


    And the VERDICT IS?

    Hope everything is going well in UK!

    UK where I make my home is University of Kentucky in Lexington KY!

    Take Care and please let me know.


  • Patrick Rayome Feb 23, 2010

    Glad things worked out for you!

    Great on the deal on ebay!

    I'm happy I could at least get you towards the right path. Jumping vehicles these days end up with more problems due to the electronics. Fir the future you might want to consider an electrical trickle/booster charger for your travels with a multiple transformer, extension cord and keep it in the vehicle. I don't jump newer cars much anymore because of the aftermath of electrical problems. I disconnect the Battery completely and hook-up the trickle/booster charger overnite.

    Cyberspace mechanics is hard, as you are not able to lay your hands on the vehicle. It was good yesterday to physically put in a fuel pump in a 1990 Toyota Camry (free labor) for a new friend.

    Remember our site in the future, I'll be glad to help you out.

    Take Care....




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