Question about Ford F-150

1 Answer

Replaced rear wheel cylinders booster and master cylinder still no brake pressure no loos of fluid blead three times

Posted by on

Ad

1 Answer

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

    Vice President:

    An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.

  • Master
  • 532 Answers

Bleed again,there probably is more air in the lines to the rear brakes

Posted on Feb 07, 2010

Ad

1 Suggested Answer

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
New users get to try the service completely Free afterwhich it costs $6 per call and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Ad

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

Changed the master cylender and vacuum booster and blead the system by the book and still cant get breaks without pumping them.


There must be air in the system some where. i am not sure of the year ,make and model of this van and also not sure of the brake system, for example if you have drum brakes in the rear then first adjust them.
The next step is to fill the master cylinder, make sure there are no leak anywhere.Next step start at the master cylinder, at the line to master do not worry about abs system. have someone inside ready to pump brake pedal and hold.Have them pump pedal three times and hold pedal with a little pressure.make sure as you open the bleeder they push on pedal and keep foot on brake until you tell them to pump again. the pedal is to be pumped three times every times.
With pedal pumped start at master lines, open one allow to bleed a little then close and move to next and allow to bleed. if master has more than two lines then pump again and do two, open one and close then open two and close then pump again. After master is bleed a few times and no air comes out then move to right rear wheel, pump three times and hold while you open bleeder, this is to be done about four times to make sure you get a good flow of fluid with no air .
NOTE: always keep master cylinder full, check after each wheel. make sure the person pumping the brakes does not lift until you say and the bleeder is closed. After the right rear wheel you will move to left rear and then right front wheel and last is the left front wheel.
Make sure there are no bad wheel bearings, lift wheel of the ground and grab and check for movement by pulling wheel out and in from top to bottom, the last thing is make sure the caliper slides are free moving.
If the caliper does not slide on the bracket freely then the piston will not stay on pad and pedal will need to be pumped to get a pedal. good day.

Mar 11, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

2000 mercury cougar.....no brake paddle we replaced master cly,booster......what can it be


did you bleed all of the air from the master cylinder before you installed it, this has to be done. also when replacing the master cylinder, all 4 wheel cylinders will have to be bled, in order to get all of the air out of them. while doing the wheel cylinder bleeding , you will have to make sure that the master cylinder doe's not run out of brake fluid, check it each time you bleed a wheel cylinder , add brake fluid to the master cylinder each time or when it is getting low. hope that this has helped you.

Apr 16, 2011 | 2000 Mercury Cougar

8 Answers

Changed calipers rotrs pads still no brake presure wont pump up to bleed air out of lines could master cylinder or booster be bad


Booster is okay, you have to bench bleed the MC, first. So, since it is installed, bleed it with a kit from the parts store, little plastic hoses screw in to the brake hose fittings, and put other end under fluid in reservoir. pump slowly, especially wait at end of release, for fluid to refill piston chamber....pump until no bubbles...

FROM THIS POINT you must not allow fluid in reservoir to go low, or start all over again....

Now bleed the brakes and you will eventually get pressure.

Mar 01, 2011 | 1998 Dodge Neon

1 Answer

My brake light has gone on and stayed on twice in the past three months. When I take it to the garage, they add brake fluid. Why does the car seem to be losing brake fluid?


well if you are losing fluid you definatly have a leak as brake fluid is not a "topping off fluid". you could have a leaking master cylinder either externaly which can be seen on brake booster or it can be leaking into the brake booster filling it with fluid. other than that you also may be leaking from your brake hoses(one hose at each wheel), calipers(front wheels and rear if all wheel disc brakes), wheel cylinders (if you have rear drum brakes), or metal brake lines due to rust and corrosoin (run from master cylinder to each brake hose). please rate 4 thumbs if helpful.

Dec 31, 2010 | Pontiac Vibe Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Install new brake pads and rotors all 4 wheels. Replaced front 2 calipers. Bled brakes. New clean fluid coming out. pedal is still soft and goes to floor. 200 Seebring.


Are you losing any Brake Fluid? Is it visible anywhere at the four wheels? Is it visible anywhere else?
The Master Cylinder may be defective. When you bled the Brakes did you maintain proper Brake Fluid Level in the Master Cylinder? If you didn't: and air entered into the Master Cylinder there maybe air within in the system in the Master Cylinder. You can bleed the Master Cylinder by removing the brake lines, adding more fluid, pumping the brakes, bleeding the air out of the system.
Are you losing Brake Fluid and can't find a noticeable leak? Then there is a good posibility that the rear seal in the Master Cylinder is leaking and the Fluid is going into the Brake Booster - which is the large wheel shaped drum located on the fire wall. In this case both the Brake Booster and the Master Cylinder will have to be removed and replaced. The Booster contains seals that Brake Fluid is very caustic to and will ruin these seals- causing future failures.
If no Brake Fluid is lost, no leak found: Check the Brake Booster Vacuum Advance. This should be connected to the outside of the Booster, attached to a hose, with the hose going to the engine. Check to see if this is working properly. Replace if needed.

Dec 31, 2009 | 2002 Chrysler Sebring

1 Answer

Ford Ranger 1994 breaking system just stopped working. No tension on pedal and on checking no brake fluid.


2 places to check 1. look at the rear wheel backing plates for moisture 2. pull the master cylinder back and look for fluid in the vacuum booster. if leaks at the rear its going to be rear wheel cylinders which will require replacing wheel cylinders and shoes. if the vacuum booster is full replace the master and booster.

Dec 28, 2009 | 1994 Ford Ranger Supercab

1 Answer

Experienceing loss of power to brakes


1. What is the Brake Fluid Level?
2. Are you losing any Brake fluid at all? Are there any puddles or noticeable wetness on the ground or on the tires/wheels? With vehicle parked, the reservoir filled (overfilled), and engine running: pump the brakes and check on the ground and back sides (inside portions) of the wheels. Look for any brake fluid leaks.
3. Leaks from Calipers usually means a leak from the caliper piston. The rubber seals will be wet.
Leaks from Drums usually means a leak from the wheel cylinder.
4. In any case of leaks from the wheels - replace the calliper OR wheel cylinder.
For caliper leaks: change the brake pads, and clean the rotors with brake cleaner.
For drum leaks: clean the drum and brake hardware with brake cleaner, and replace the shoes.
5. If no leak is detected from the wheel area's: check under the Master Cylinder for wetness indicating a possible leak.
6. If no leak can be found: you MAY have a rear seal leak in the Master Cylinder which is pumping Brake Fluid into the Brake Booster (that large disk looking thing attached to the fire wall, attached to the Master Cylinder in front).
a. Use a large drip/catch pan under the Van in the area on the Master Cylinder.
b. Disconnect the brake lines from the Master Cylinder using a flair wrench.
c. Remove the two nuts (12 or 13mm?) attaching the Master Cylinder to the Brake Booster. If you have been using a lot of fluid, and have found no leaks, here is a good possibilty that all that brake fluid has collected in the Booster; so when you detach the Master Cylinder from the Brake Booster, all that fluid will come rushing out!
7. If there is Brake Fluid inside the Brake Booster: there is no cleaning that out. Brake Fluid is very caustic to the seals inside the Booster and should be replaced.
8. Of course the Master Cylinder will also have to be replaced.
9. After replacing the Master Cylinder/Brake Booster - make sure you get all that spilled brake fluid off the engine compartment area parts! I use a brake cleaner, then mild soap and then water to rinse. Clean any Brake Fluid off Paint imediatley as it will quickly dissolves finishes and paint.
10. If no leak is detected and the Booster is clear, there may be problems with the Booster One-Way Valve. This is attached to the outside of the Booster and has a hose from an "advance" connected to it. This maybe malfunctioning where you are losing power. Replace this first before deciding to replace the whole booster (in cases of NON-LEAKS ONLY). If that did not work, there may be inner seals inside the Booster that have failed. That means a new Booster.
11. In any of the above cases: Make sure you bleed the Master Cylinder correctly and bleed the brakes (at each affected wheel) correctly. Any air in the brake lines will decrease your braking proficiency or could result in brake failure.

Let me know if this helped or if you have any additional information or questions. Feel free to contact me at FixYa.com!

Dec 10, 2009 | 1999 Dodge Caravan

3 Answers

I need to change the master cylinder in my fj62 landcruiser and I am not sure how to do it. Looking for help please.


If you want to change break master cylinder,first remove two break pipes then remove four nuts which is holding master cylinder to breake booster.careful breake fluid from the car body and your self.

put the new breake master cylinder tight four nuts, before you fit the braeke pipes get some body who can hold breake bedel down put the breake fluide tell him to pump breake bedel when the brake master take fluid hold your fingers where you want to fit brake pipes when you feel more pressure which is pushing your finger tell him to hold the bedel down while you tighting the pipes.
you dont need to bleade the wheels. it is ready.
the ather thing when you remove the breake master put the new one then fit the brake pipes fil with the breake fluide then bump so you must bleade all wheels

Jun 16, 2009 | 1998 Toyota Land Cruiser

1 Answer

No brake pedal


The fluid could be leaking into the power brake booster.

Nov 12, 2008 | 1993 Mazda Protege

Not finding what you are looking for?
Cars & Trucks Logo

Related Topics:

144 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Ford Experts

yadayada
yadayada

Level 3 Expert

76649 Answers

Colin Stickland
Colin Stickland

Level 3 Expert

22219 Answers

fordexpert

Level 3 Expert

5537 Answers

Are you a Ford Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...