Question about Chrysler Voyager

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Hi how do i get access to bolts to remove starter on a 97 voyager they seem to be behind the manifold & obscured by steering rack or am i not looking in right area? thanks mark hopkin

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  • Chrysler Master
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1. The Upper Bolt is easily accessed from the front of the vehicle going OVER the right side of the radiator. It is partially hidden by the exhaust manifold (front-to-back) and a black brace. There is a large gauge black ground wire going to where a nut(s) are located. This first nut will allow you to take off the ground connection, however the bolt has another nut further in (to the left) which is totally hidden. Remove the first nut.
2. After the first nut is off, remove the ground wire, then using a deep socket 15mm socket remove the second nut which is welded/attached to the bolt.
3. Go under the vehicle to remove the wires from the Starter. The first wire is the positive cable (should be red) attached on the solenoid portion of the starter. Remove the nut and lock washer and detach the wire. The second wire (single small gauge) goes to the solenoid and is connected using a slide lock - press release connection. It is difficult to see the slide lock and the press release located on the top side of the connection. Slide the red slide lock out and press the release, and pull out the connection straight out. Do not force it, or it may damage the connector. Note the placement of the bottom bolt position on the Starter. DO NOT remove the two (2) small, but long connector bolts on the wire connection end of the starter.
4. Remembering the noted postion: remove the lower 15mm bolt from the Starter. The bolt head is located on the back side of a plate moving towards the left side of the Van. It is easily accessed from underneath in front of the transmission. Near the end of removing this bolt, support the starter or it will fall out.
5. Remove the Starter, noting the position of the starter. There should be a separate starter facing plate. If if didn't come down with the starter check up in the starter to flywheel opening and remove the plate.
6. Installation is Reverse of above. The facing plate is a little tricky getting it to stay in place. By starting with the bottom bolt it is easier, Make sure you continuously support the Starter in position to save crossthreading the bolt or starter. Hand tighten only the bottom bolt as you want to be able to turn the starter slightly to get the top bolt in.
Starter Bolts are tigthen to 35 ft-lbs.
Let me know if it helped or if you need additional help at fixya.com

Posted on Feb 06, 2010

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Im trying to change my alternator on my 97 chrysler sebring coupe lxi but it seems impossible to do it without taking other parts off to get it out and also put the new one in because its real compact


Hi there:
Check this procedure on 2.5L (VIN N) Engine...


  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove the right side under cover.
  3. Remove the speed control vacuum reservoir and related components as required for alternator access.
  4. Remove the power steering pump cover.
  5. Remove the A/C compressor drive belt.
  6. Remove the alternator/power steering pump drive belt.
  7. Remove the intake manifold plenum.
  8. Remove the upper alternator bracket.
  9. Remove the intake manifold plenum stay.
  10. Detach the electrical connections at the alternator.
  11. Unfasten the upper and lower bolts and remove the alternator. Be very careful not to damage neighboring components while removing the alternator.


8_22_2012_2_51_45_pm.gif

Fig. 8: Alternator assembly installation-2.5L engine (VIN N) - Zoom Image link HERE


To install:

  1. Connect the wiring to the alternator.
  2. Place the alternator on its lower bracket and install the upper and lower bolts finger-tight.
  3. Install the upper alternator bracket.
  4. Install the alternator/power steering pump belt, making sure it is properly seated.
  5. Adjust the drive belt to the correct tension using the belt adjuster, then tighten the upper mounting bolt to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm) and the lower mounting bolt to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm).
  6. Install the intake manifold plenum.
  7. Install the intake manifold plenum stay.
  8. Install the A/C compressor drive belt.
  9. Install the power steering pump cover.
  10. Connect the negative battery cable.
  11. Check the charging system operation.



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Aug 22, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How long does it take to replace the starter on a 2000 S Type Jag?


This is a good 4-5 + hour job for a professional.

In this vehicle the steering rack must be removed for access... along with a rear engine height adjusting tool (Jack)

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See the following:

  1. Working from below the vehicle, remove the power steering rack for access. (biggest part of the job.)
  2. Disconnect the starter motor main terminal.
  3. Disconnect the starter motor solenoid terminal.
  4. Remove the starter motor bolts.
  5. Carefully remove the starter motor.
  6. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Tighten the starter motor securing bolts to 38-48 Nm.
  7. Install the steering rack. Refill the reservoir with the recommended fluid and bleed the steering system.
  8. Lower the car.
  9. Connect the battery and install the battery cover.


Thanks!

Sep 27, 2011 | 2000 Jaguar S-Type

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How do you remove the dash of a 97 Plymouth Vogager, please?


I just recently did this... so here it goes.. There's a vent on the left side of the dash, pop this off and there are 2 screws, remove them. Under the steering wheel where your knees are there are a few more screws all the way on the bottom. Above the parking brake release there are 2 more screws. The plastic moulding around the gauge cluster should pop out now, same with the big dash piece under the steering wheel. Behind the steering wheel there are a few more bolts that need removed, then the 4 bolts that hold the gauge cluster in place. Be careful to disconnect the 3 wiring plugs behind the headlight and mirror control, the tabs snap off easily. Basically, just look for the bolts and remove them, because they can always be re-attached. Oh yeah, one single wiring plug is what is behind the gauge cluster.

Sep 26, 2010 | 1997 Plymouth Voyager

1 Answer

How do you repair/replace rack & pinion assembly?


The only reason to repair/replace rack and pinion is if the wheel took a hit in an accident, or it has a power steering problem.

The rack is long and thin, attached to the tie rods on each end, which can be popped with a picklefork, or removed by twisting the toe-in adjustment sleeves (count the turns for replacement having a reasonable starting point).

Then there is just the steering shft coupling, the power steering hoses, and the 4 hold down bolts.

Since it is long and thin, it generally slips out one side or the other, as long as a wheel if off.

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it is easier from under neigh,,,or universal & strait extensions,,either way is hard,,,

May 08, 2010 | 1999 Plymouth Grand Voyager

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I am thinking of buying a 1998 Voyager that has a bad Steering Rack & Pinion in it. I am told that this removal & installation can be a real pain and very time consuming. I have not been able to...


Take a look under hood, rack is on the firewall with 3 main bolts holding it to firewall. You'll also need to get a crowsfoot wrench/socket to make it easier to remove fluid lines. Tie rod ends have to come off knuckles at wheels, Rack has to be disconnected from steering wheel shaft coupling etc. Better yet try going to (autozone.com) and sign up for free, and get access to parts prices as well as service manuals for your vehicle. Once you get there, click on repair guide, check in suspension and steering category.

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1 Answer

How do replace the starter on a 1991 mazda protege


Can't remember the particular model 1998, but generally, here's how to remove the starter on a 90's Protege:
Disconnect the negative battery terminal to remove power from the starter. The starter and starter solenoid are one unit.
There should be 2 or 3 14mm bolts holding the starter to the tranny. At least one of these bolts is accessed from above the transmission, requiring the removal of (at least)the air filter housing and intake, and the battery and tray if you want to make it easy on yourself. Remove those first, then remove the top starter bolt before you go under the car. You might be able to access the top bolt from the left wheel well if you take out the plastic splash guard behind the left wheel, and have a nice long extension with a "wobbly" 14mm socket. There are a number of 10mm bolts and a few plastic fasteners that hold this on.
I believe the starter is located behind a bracket that supports the intake manifold from the engiine block. Remove the 4 bolts on this bracket and remove it from the vehicle. The starter wire may be attached to this bracket with a plastic clip, just undo the clip and the bracket should come right out. The bolts that hold the bracket on the manifold end are usually pretty hard to get to; be patient.
Once you have access to the starter, there should be either 1 or two bolts that hold the starter in on the bottom. Remove the bolts and carefully remove the starter from it's position in the transmission. Once you have the starter free, remove the starter cable and the small wire from the clip on the starter solenoid.
Re-install in reverse order.

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1 Answer

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Disconnect the negative battery terminal to remove power from the starter. The starter and starter solenoid are one unit.
There should be 2 or 3 14mm bolts holding the starter to the tranny. At least one of these bolts is accessed from above the transmission, requiring the removal of (at least)the air filter housing and intake, and the battery and tray if you want to make it easy on yourself. Remove those first, then remove the top starter bolt before you go under the car. You might be able to access the top bolt from the left wheel well if you take out the plastic splash guard behind the left wheel, and have a nice long extension with a "wobbly" 14mm socket. There are a number of 10mm bolts and a few plastic fasteners that hold this on.
I believe the starter is located behind a bracket that supports the intake manifold from the engiine block. Remove the 4 bolts on this bracket and remove it from the vehicle. The starter wire may be attached to this bracket with a plastic clip, just undo the clip and the bracket should come right out. The bolts that hold the bracket on the manifold end are usually pretty hard to get to; be patient.
Once you have access to the starter, there should be either 1 or two bolts that hold the starter in on the bottom. Remove the bolts and carefully remove the starter from it's position in the transmission. Once you have the starter free, remove the starter cable and the small wire from the clip on the starter solenoid.
Re-install in reverse order.

Thanks
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Smith

Jul 09, 2009 | 1993 Mazda 929

1 Answer

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