Question about 1993 Chevrolet C1500

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Brake light is on changed master and bled .Light still on brake pedal travel more than before. Abs does not seem to work (rear only).

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  • Anonymous Mar 22, 2014

    Never had a good pedal since knew replaced rear disc brakes and still had low pedal brakes re solid but pedal seems to travel a bit further thn I like

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  • 59 Answers

Try adjusting brakes on rear drums, lack of adjustment will trow off abs and brake light goes on.

Posted on Feb 06, 2010

Testimonial: "thank you. That sounds very logical and I will adjust or new shoes tomorrow."

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Don't worry about it until you drive the truck. Complete the brake bleeding then drive it. If it stays on then you are going to have to have the codes pulled

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Hi Kathy, I'm guessing that you mean you've replaced the brake master cylinder. It helps to be as specific as possible, so we can help you in a specific way. Make sure that the brake fluid pipes connecting the master cylinder are sealing correctly. There must be no leakage from them at all. Fill the reservoir and keep it filled throughout the whole bleeding procedure by having someone topping up each time the level goes down. Begin the bleeding procedure at the wheel furthest from the master cylinder and move one wheel at a time closer. The procedure is to push the pedal repeatedly to the floor and releasing to come full travel to the top of its movement. Repeat several times and while holding the pedal fully depressed to the floor open and close the bleeding valve on the wheel being bled before beginning the pumping action over. Once all wheels have been bled and you have reached the wheel closest to the master cylinder, if the pressure in the system is insufficient repeat the whole job until brake pedal pressure is normal. Look for signs of leakage on all four wheels in the event there is a leak on a wheel cylinder. The brake warning light should extinguish when the park brake is released and the ABS light when pressure is normal in the system, unless there is another separate fault. Finish up on the bleeding first and let me know how you get on. We'll tackle one job at a time. Regards John

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Did you try adjusting the rear shoes? If out of adjustment they would have to travel farther giving you a low pedal. Also did you try bleeding the abs unit?

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if a master cylinder is bad and you are sure you have all the air out and no leaks.pedal will go to floor , running or not. if booster is bad it will cause a hard pedal. but if master cylinder is bad it will turn on a brake light on dash if it works. make sure the wheel cylinders are not leaking. I beleive that the master cylinder is bad, or you have a leak somewhere. If the master cylinder is functioning properly, the brake pedal will depress to a certain depth and no further.

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There may be air in the lines. Bleed all your brakes starting at the farthest wheel from the resevoir, and finishing at the closest one. Try the pedal after its bled. If the pedal still feels soft or travels to the floor there may be a pinhole leak that may be spraying on the underbody of the car, or the seals in the master cylinder are gone filling the vacuum booster(if equipped). Air compresses more than oil so if bleeding works that may be the problem.

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Did you adjust the rear shoes out? If the rear drum brakes are out of adjustment they will give you a lot of pedal travel. If the pads are worn have no fear of that U-CLIP brake spring, just change one shoe at a time. Take the spring off one side, change the shoe, put the spring back on the post and do the same to the other shoe, no problem.

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Your Brake Master Cylinder is Failing. Get this Replaced and the Brake System Bled and it will work just fine. Please Rate My Response! Thanks!

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Is the brake booster going out?


Let me know what you find out. I get the same whoosh/pedal travel, and at this point have NO braking at all. I am also losing fluid nearly as fast as I can put it in if I use the brakes, but I can't find where it's coming out. I even drove on clean snow and don't see any fluid tracks...

Oddly enough if you are going to do it yourself, gmpartsdirect seems to have the best prices for OEM parts.

I am assuming that my rusted/pitted brake lines have failed me. Aaahhh the old money pit.

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